Ericson 41 Florida - Norway

sveinutne

Member III
Hi Sven,
Yes, you might be right. I even though about bringing my diving equipment and bread air from the tank, but I will try to moderate the sanding till only what is strictly needed.
Today I think I will do less sanding and maybe remove the cockpit floor for anti- skid, so I can replace it with some teak.
 

sveinutne

Member III
Removed the cockpit floor, and it was scaring to see how easy it was to remove. I was planning to only remove the floor, and keep the rest of the friction padding, but now I need to think about it. Before I remove any more of it, I will see how much work it is to make a new floor in teak. I was planning to get a plain floor and put the teak all the way out to the sides, next to the walls, but there were some height differences. So I am not sure if I should grind it all the way down to the fiberglass, or if I should keep this height difference and hope the epoxy will stick to this floor.
Last week I painted the engine room and the fender room where the hull or bout number was painted. I want to keep this number so I painted around it.
The engine room is ready for the new engine. I decided to go for a four cylinder diesel. 58 HP.
 

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sveinutne

Member III
In the last picture you can see the cockpit floor and the door to the fender room. The wall was damage, and had broken loose. On the inside some fiberglass was put on some time ago, but it was not sanded down first so it did not stick. This old fiberglass was removed and sanded down to old fiberglass before three layers of new fiberglass was put on, on the inside and underneath the cockpit floor. This made the cockpit floor much stiffer. Will now sand down the crack on the outside and put on several layers of new fiberglass to rebuild the strength of the wall.
New diesel engine is ordered and will arrive next week. I will wait till I have finished the cockpit before I open the plastic cover for lowering the new engine down into the boat. I am a bit exited to see how the new engine will fit inside the boat. It is a bit bigger then the old engine so I am not sure how easy it will be to get it in.
 

Sven

Seglare
Looks like you are having a lot of fun !

Can't wait to see what the final result will look like.



-Sven
 

sveinutne

Member III
It will be worse before it can be better, but I hope we soon will see improvments. Desided to remove all the friction pads from teh cockpit and replace it with teak.
 

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sveinutne

Member III
The temperature has been below freezing at night the last two days, and today we got 5 cm of new snow, so it is too cold to work with epoxy. I use a 2000 watt infrared lamp that manages to heat up the hull of the boat till 10-15 degrees when it was only +5 degrees outside, but now it is too cold. The forecast is cold for the next week. This gives me time to sand down the cockpit area and make good preparation before I move on to putting on new fiberglass.
 

Sven

Seglare
Attaching new teak cockpit sole

Hi Svein,

How were you planning on attaching the new teak cockpit sole ?

We have a drop-in teak grate right now but it will soon have to go. I haven't noticed any softness in the sole but was thinking of epoxying teak in place both to strengthen the sole and to make it more pleasant.

Our non-skid is molded in but it looks like yours was glued on ?



-Sven
 

sveinutne

Member III
Hi Sven,
I am not sure if it was glued or molded in. What I removed was the top 4 mm of the friction pad, but back in the boat is and other 3-5 mm of extended height of something. If that is the bottom of the friction padding that was molded in, or if there were some molded sole for it I do not know.
It is nice to have a vacuum cleaner to get all the mess away. So maybe you can see it from this picture below. Did not do any work in the boat today, had some other commitment, and tomorrow I will be sailing for the first time this “summer”. The weather forecast is rain and snow, but as long as we do not get to much dust from <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:oops:ffice:smarttags" /><st1:place w:st="on">Island</st1:place> it will be OK.
We will have a practice run this Sunday before the races starts again for the summer. We need to work on the spinnaker. We often stay in the lead or close to it until we use the spinnaker, then something happened and we drop down to 10 or 15 places.
You might think it sounds cold to sail in snow or rain at zero degreases, but it is only a question of clouding. With good clouding it is not so bad. It is the fingers and face that is most difficult to keep warm, but I have warm glows that will keep me warm even when they are wet.
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:oops:ffice:oops:ffice" /><o:p> </o:p>
PS. I am planning to epoxy in the teak with West System epoxy.
 

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Mark F

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
Svein,

I think I remember someone that looked at your boat before you bought it mentioning that there was a non skid membrane glued down. The raised area that is left might be the factory molded in non skid.

Can you clean that area up and paint with some non skid paint?
 

sveinutne

Member III
Hi Mark,
You might be right that the raised area that is left is the factory molded in non skid. What is my concern is that it will stick to the boat and that I can put a new layer of fiberglass over it to make it water tight and a good holding for the epoxy and teak. In the cockpit area I think it will be nice to have teak. It will make it look better and I think it will be better to sit on too.
For the rest of the boat I am not sure what I will do. I would like to get the boat on water in July, but then I will not have time for a complete makeover, so I will have to concentrate on the parts that are absolutely needed for making it water tight and seaworthy.
The windows were a very pleasant surprise. They looked real bad with a thick layer of copper rust, but after some work on the window frame it came back to its old beauty. I am not there yet; I have only taken two of six windows, so there is a lot of work to be done in all direction on this boat.
Wake up to 1 cm of new snow today as you can see in the picture below. But we got some sun, so then I hope we will get nice sailing wind today, so we can practice on the spinnaker.
 

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sveinutne

Member III
The sailing was canceled because of more snow and danger of getting a very slippery deck.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:oops:ffice:oops:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
 

Sven

Seglare
Still getting those srange characters

Hi Svein,

What were the last characters in your last message supposed to be ?

They arrived as shown in the attached picture. I don't get those from anyone else and wonder if it is the Norwegian to Swedish translator that is doing something funny :egrin:



-Sven
 

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sveinutne

Member III
I think it is Microsoft Word that is doing it. I use to write in Word and cut and past it into this forum, but word uses a lot of extra characters. To help the situation I pasted it into notpad to get some of the hidden stuff away, but it is not perfect.
 

sveinutne

Member III
Maybe someone inhere knows how to turn of all this hidden tags, so I can past just the text from Word?
This morning we got –4 degrees and some more snow, so now it looks more like winter then spring.
Maybe I just found the way. When I push the button “wrap in HTML tag” and past it looks much better . Then I can remove the HTML tag.
 
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Sven

Seglare
Svein,

Maybe someone inhere knows how to turn of all this hidden tags, so I can past just the text from Word?
This morning we got –4 degrees and some more snow, so now it looks more like winter then spring.
Maybe I just found the way. When I push the button “wrap in HTML tag” and past it looks much better . Then I can remove the HTML tag.

Don't worry about it on my behalf. I just want to understand things ... it is in my nature :)

Any Icelandic ash in the snow or is it too dispersed at ground level to be noticeable ?



-Sven
 

sveinutne

Member III
I need to write a user manual in Norwegian for getting the boat EU approved. I have looked at the document section, but could not find any user manual for E-41. I wonder which of the other boat that got a user manual will be best for me to use as a start for making one the E-41?
I am also wondering what to do with the rest of the friction padding on rest of the boat. Where the padding is not broken, it looks to be quite good to use, so I wonder if a paint on friction deck will be as good, or if I will move from something that is almost Ok till something not so good?
I was planning to replace all of the friction padding with West Systems paint on friction deck. You can look at it here:
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/
 

sveinutne

Member III
I have looked at e38-200 owner manual, and it might be a good start, but I have not found any other boat with V-drive. Was that only on the e41? In any case I have taken out the V-drive and are going to use hydrolic drive so I have to write that from my own heart.
 

sveinutne

Member III
Maybe I did something stupid again. The engine I have ordered is 58 hp, and I could
have done with less. Maybe 40-50 hp would have been OK. The power is not the problem,
but the stronger engine is also longer and will take more space. I was hoping to make
the boat very silent, so I was hoping to build extra sound
isolation around the engine, but now that might be difficult because of the space.
If the Through-hull piping behind the engine was moved back 20 cm I would have plenty
of room for the engine and isolation, but I am not sure if that is a no no to move this.
 
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Emerald

Moderator
Hi,

As long as there is not something to interfere with water flow (can't think of what that would be on your boat), I don't see any reason why you couldn't relocate the through hull. This is for water intake for cooling, yes? This should be OK to move the distance you are talking about. The old hole could be glassed in or you could cap the fitting on the existing through hull.
 
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