Need help pulling shaft

[907Juice]

Cotter pin?

I drilled it out and it went fine. Does the pin have to be something pressed in or could I just put a cotter pin there? It doesn't seem like it has to be something super strong. Does it do anything besides keeping the larger pin from falling out?

I promise im getting close to being done with this project...

 

[frick]

Some Guess Work on sized

If the boat came with an Atomic 4 - it should have a 3/4 shaft
If was a diesel it will have a 1 inch shaft.

I dropped the Rudder (tiller no quadrant to remove) and pull the shaft down and out.

FYI When I re-powered my boat 15 years ago with Yanmar 2GM20F, A brand new one inch shaft fit in the original tube. A Nice surprice.

Rick

 

[907Juice]

If the boat came with an Atomic 4 - it should have a 3/4 shaft
If was a diesel it will have a 1 inch shaft.

I dropped the Rudder (tiller no quadrant to remove) and pull the shaft down and out.

FYI When I re-powered my boat 15 years ago with Yanmar 2GM20F, A brand new one inch shaft fit in the original tube. A Nice surprice.

Rick

For the most part, I got the engine stuff figured out. This was in reference to the pin I drilled out. When I reattach the boom I'm wondering if I could put a (3/16ish) sized cotter pin there instead of a pushpin.

 

[frick]

I wonder

Did this have a pressed in split tube stly fastener?

http://www.psminternational.com/en/product/detail.aspx?typeid=2&proid=24

 

[907Juice]

Pin

Did this have a pressed in split tube stly fastener?

http://www.psminternational.com/en/product/detail.aspx?typeid=2&proid=24

Something like that. I'm not exactly sure what it was though. It was rusted in and ended up drilling it out. It would be nice to have something I didn't have to drill out so I can pull the boat and take it to my house every few years or so.

 

[Christian Williams]

I'd get a stainless steel roll pin of the correct size and length. No wobble. Often a machine shop has a drawer full.

Roll pins are easy to remove, just tap them out with a drift pin. To insert, tap with hammer and the pin compresses to fit.

 

[907Juice]

Pin

I'd get a stainless steel roll pin of the correct size and length. No wobble. Often a machine shop has a drawer full.

Roll pins are easy to remove, just tap them out with a drift pin. To insert, tap with hammer and the pin compresses to fit.

Gotcha! I gotta bunch of them. Just was worried cause the last one was corroded in. Now that I got it, it should get a little more PM.

 

[907Juice]

Rudder stuffing box?

I can't figure this out and I'm wondering if it has been modified. My rudder had a solid shaft that goes all the way from the rudder to the base of the cockpit (above the water line). Then the tiller bolts straight into the shaft. Where would I put the stuffing?

literature I got with the boat


My rudder



Tiller base

 

[Alan Gomes]

I can't figure this out and I'm wondering if it has been modified. My rudder had a solid shaft that goes all the way from the rudder to the base of the cockpit (above the water line). Then the tiller bolts straight into the shaft. Where would I put the stuffing?

literature I got with the boat


My rudder

View attachment 22217

Tiller base

There is no stuffing. It's just a stainless steel rudder post that fits into the fiberglass rudder tube. I assume those instructions are for a different boat. I have an E26-2 and it's identical to the 25+ in that (and virtually every other) respect.

 

[907Juice]

Thanks

There is no stuffing. It's just a stainless steel rudder post that fits into the fiberglass rudder tube. I assume those instructions are for a different boat. I have an E26-2 and it's identical to the 25+ in that (and virtually every other) respect.

Fwew, I thought was losing my mind this evening. Too funny though, I got the boat from the original owner and it came with a pile of original paperwork. Wonder how he came onto it.

 

[Alan Gomes]

Fwew, I thought was losing my mind this evening. Too funny though, I got the boat from the original owner and it came with a pile of original paperwork. Wonder how he came onto it.

One less thing to worry about!

 

[907Juice]

Sincere thank you

Wow! Finally was able to get the boat in the water. Nothing leaked (fwew) and the engine fired right up. I haven't taken it out yet but have some time off in July and august to play. I am truly thankful for all the help. I'm pretty sure I asked some seeming silly questions at times. Thank you for your patience and advice. Hopefully I can enjoy the rest of summer on the water. This project has tested my patience and expanded my expletive vocabulary more than I thought it would.

Juice

 

[907Juice]

Lots of seeming good ideas turned into a bad scenario

Sooo, when I replaced the zinc on my prop shaft, I put on the prop side of the shaft. I thought I put it far enough out not to interfere. And sailed and used the motor all summer. When I reinstalled my packing gland it was an inch or so longer than my old one. Then this fall I pulled my engine to replace some motor mounts. In my infinite wisdom I thought it would be a good idea to move the engine forward just a schosh to fill the old holes and redrill new ones. Ok... now my problem!!! I’m pretty sure my zinc is hitting my cutlass bearing mount and I’m short to reconnect the shaft to the the transmission.

So my options
1. Dive and hope to be able to hold my breath to move the zinc back an inch or so.
2. Lift the motor and move the engine back to it’s original position.
3. Buy a flex fitting at roughly $200 bucks or so.

Im hoping someone has maybe a 4th option. I’m hoping for the best solution for the highest likelihood of success.

 

[907Juice]

Sooo, when I replaced the zinc on my prop shaft, I put on the prop side of the shaft. I thought I put it far enough out not to interfere. And sailed and used the motor all summer. When I reinstalled my packing gland it was an inch or so longer than my old one. Then this fall I pulled my engine to replace some motor mounts. In my infinite wisdom I thought it would be a good idea to move the engine forward just a schosh to fill the old holes and redrill new ones. Ok... now my problem!!! I’m pretty sure my zinc is hitting my cutlass bearing mount and I’m short to reconnect the shaft to the the transmission.

So my options
1. Dive and hope to be able to hold my breath to move the zinc back an inch or so.
2. Lift the motor and move the engine back to it’s original position.
3. Buy a flex fitting at roughly $200 bucks or so.

Im hoping someone has maybe a 4th option. I’m hoping for the best solution for the highest likelihood of success.

I just looked through my photos and I can’t find the one I took with the measurements. I remember being close to 1.5in from the hub of the packing gland to my transmission mount. Any help is appreciated.

Juice