Ericson 30+ 1983 - Discovery - Port leaks, Bottom Paint

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
Parfait cups

I use "soil extraction cups" that I have drawers-full of in my lab. Actually they're some kind of food service container that I get at the wholesale grocer. They come in all sizes, but 2 oz and 5 oz are pretty handy, and they have snap-on lids. The label says "Solo" brand "soufflés". I believe they're (non-expanded) polystyrene. Foam is expanded polystyrene. Actually pretty handy things to have in the shop... For example, great for organizing screws and small parts during an engine job. Snap a lid on and label each set in sharpie.
 

mjsouleman

Sustaining Member
Moderator
Git Rot

GetRot

GetRot has been advanced as the solution to fixing mahogany veneer around ports.
The directions call for drilling 1/4 in holes where the wood is rotted.
I drilled about 24 holes.

Next mix Part B with Part A and shake for at least 60 seconds (1 minute)

Then inject into the 1/4 in holes.

My experience is that the mixture dribbled out of the 1/4 in holes.

I then covered the area with saran wrap and used C-clamps and wood wedges to clamp area.

Next weekend I will go back and drill more holes and inject epoxy into the holes to bond the veneer to the fiberglass backing.
Once that is cured, I will paint and finally put the ports in.

Not: While the ports are sitting on my work bench, I applied Capt Tolley's to complete the sealing process.

When I started this process I read a lot of scary stories. Taking it one step at a time, this was not hard.

MJS
 

EMKoper

Member II
Leak Check?

MSJ- Did you do any particular leak check on the seal around the window? I filled the contraption with water (fully) and agitated it once in a while for ~15 hours and no apparent leak ...
 

mjsouleman

Sustaining Member
Moderator
2nd Port Removal

I did not do a leak check. but the ports are not in yet, I'll let you know by end of this weekend
 

mjsouleman

Sustaining Member
Moderator
2nd Port Removal

It has been a few weeks since my last but here is a summary:
When I removed the first port (over the nav. station) I found extensive veneer rot. This lead me to remove a 2nd, third and fourth port, all with veneer rot.

I then applied get rot the veneer around all the ports. On re-examination, I then cut out extensive sections of badly damaged veneer.
The next step was to fill cut out sections with wood putty, sand and repeat until I had a smooth finish (3-4 times to get smooth finish).

I painted with interior/exterior satin finish white paint as suggested in earlier posts.

Most postings stop here.

I noticed the veneer was not adhering to the fiberglass and started inspecting with the core should have been by sticking a ruler between the veneer and the fiberglass.
At each port, I could slide up to 12 inches between the veneer and fiberglass. For new readers, this is not a good thing and indicates the cabin core is completely rotted.

I am currently working with a young fiberglass man (Moore Marine jarredmoore091@gmail.com) out of Mayo Maryland to cut and replace most of the cabin.
labor: 27.50 hr is an good cost
schedule: 3 weeks
estimate: $9,600

decision: because water runs down hill, let's get the cabin done this year and do the decks next. Overall project cost is expected to be 18-20,000.

As always, the hope is to share my experience in detail for others to get a complete understanding.

mjs
 

EMKoper

Member II
Ouch...

MJS - That is tough, good luck with the way forward, I am sure she'll look fantastic when the dust settles.

I took the blocks/clamps off this weekend having injected West 105/205 to rebond the veneer and it looks/feels fantastic. Next weekend I'll sand down, paint, ... and then following weekend re-install the portlight.

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Update: Painting complete .. looks pretty good, re-installing on 23 April ... and going to pull one on the port side since I have the tools and materials in hand...

e1541933-8670-4f80-87fe-81b233693b49.jpg
 

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Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
MJS,

If the interior surfaces still look all right but is no longer stuck to the fiberglass, you can stick it back to the fiberglass by drilling a number of 1/8th" holes and injecting epoxy. If there is hidden rot, CPES injected first will fix that.
Personally, if hiring somebody to do it, I would ask for a list of optional alternatives to 2016 wood carpentry. Yacht carpentry is always custom, takes pros a long time to do, requires actual skill, and is rightfully expensive.
 

mjsouleman

Sustaining Member
Moderator
2nd Port Removal

I hired Moore Marine to do the same job that olsonjohan,
see: //www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/entry.php?383-Balsa-Core-Repair-Cabin-Top-and-Companionway-Part-3

is doing on his Ericson. The only difference is that he has a great working area and I don't.
 

mjsouleman

Sustaining Member
Moderator
2nd port removal status

Unhappy, I have to report that Moore Marine sent me an email today saying that they will not be able to do the job I paid them to do.

As reported earlier, after waiting weeks for them to do work they had been paid for, I removed all cabin equipment in preparation to take down the mast.

I am left stranded in the marina on stands and have to find a reputable fiberglass shop minus my initial investment.

Signed: Not a Happy Camper (Stranded Sailor)
 
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