MountainSailor
Member II
ERY263461788 is the number stamped on the hill I'll post a pus later today. Very strange!
New E26 owner here:)
- Thread starter MountainSailor
- Start date
ERY263461788 is the number stamped on the hill I'll post a pus later today. Very strange!
Random thought, is there any chance Ericson called this model a 26-3?
If so, that would make it hull #461, build date 7/88...
markvone
Sustaining Member
Interesting,
Yes, the 300 series E26 are sometimes referred to as the 26-3, but there are no E26 hulls with numbers starting with 4xx that I have heard of. And the HIN system only allocates two digits for model after the three letters.
My guess is the guy at the Ericson factory who stamped the HIN in this mold was not paying attention. We all know this guy, he had a few beers at lunch and cut out your jagged portlight holes with an axe! Anyway, he a) mistook a '7' for a '2' in December or b) used a '1' instead of a '0' in July or c) thought the date was May 89! Since the sequential hull number '346' is not effected and it makes the whole HIN unique, any error with the actual date of mfg becomes easy to overlook and insignificant. It's also hard to fix. I've seen this error before.
The E36RH built after mine, #22 was built in the same month 'J' but has '83' instead of '81' in the HIN. Hull numbers 24 and 25 were also built in 1981. I don't know if this is just a paperwork issue or if the actual boat has '83' stamped in the transom HIN but it doesn't really matter, for registration purposes it's an '83 with it's unique HIN.
Mark
Yes, the 300 series E26 are sometimes referred to as the 26-3, but there are no E26 hulls with numbers starting with 4xx that I have heard of. And the HIN system only allocates two digits for model after the three letters.
My guess is the guy at the Ericson factory who stamped the HIN in this mold was not paying attention. We all know this guy, he had a few beers at lunch and cut out your jagged portlight holes with an axe! Anyway, he a) mistook a '7' for a '2' in December or b) used a '1' instead of a '0' in July or c) thought the date was May 89! Since the sequential hull number '346' is not effected and it makes the whole HIN unique, any error with the actual date of mfg becomes easy to overlook and insignificant. It's also hard to fix. I've seen this error before.
The E36RH built after mine, #22 was built in the same month 'J' but has '83' instead of '81' in the HIN. Hull numbers 24 and 25 were also built in 1981. I don't know if this is just a paperwork issue or if the actual boat has '83' stamped in the transom HIN but it doesn't really matter, for registration purposes it's an '83 with it's unique HIN.
Mark
Alan Gomes
Sustaining Partner
My E26 is also a 1984, hull #209. When I bought the boat in 2012 it already had two bilge pumps fitted: A manual pump (no doubt factory) with the strainer in the forward-most bilge opening, and a very small capacity bilge pump that just fits in the center bilge opening. While I certainly wouldn't count on the really small pump to bail me out in a serious emergency, it's just fine for removing the water that inevitably accumulates in the bilge from packing gland drips, etc.
Another change from the early vs. later model 26's is that on the earlier boats they went nuts with the teak, whereas on the later ones they replaced some of the teak on the cabin sides with carpeting. Also, the later models (or at least the models after 1984, near as I can tell) seem to sport slightly larger engines. Mine has a Yanmar 1GM, which is typical for an '84 I believe, whereas later boats had slightly larger Universals (e.g., M12's) for a little more oomph.
MountainSailor
Member II
Off to look for the manual pump Handel and confirm HIN
So I would have to agree and think that is was 7/88 when the hull was stamped. Also I found scribed on the boon a marking of "Ericson 26 7-89 so it makes me wonder if she was a very late hull. The pump handle must be in the helm... The you all for the help here. I will update in an hours or so after j get back up in the boat.
So I would have to agree and think that is was 7/88 when the hull was stamped. Also I found scribed on the boon a marking of "Ericson 26 7-89 so it makes me wonder if she was a very late hull. The pump handle must be in the helm... The you all for the help here. I will update in an hours or so after j get back up in the boat.
MountainSailor
Member II
Found the bilge pump!
So as stated above the bilge is a manual. The pump is located on the starboard side at the back of the cockpit. I simply overlooked it. As a black who knows what on the side of the boat. The HIN is correct and matches the HIN located in front of the motor.
So as stated above the bilge is a manual. The pump is located on the starboard side at the back of the cockpit. I simply overlooked it. As a black who knows what on the side of the boat. The HIN is correct and matches the HIN located in front of the motor.
MountainSailor
Member II
Stamped on a Friday after lunch?
So I have found anther place where the hull is marked in front of the motor. The 6 and the 1 look to be patched in.. I bet someone was drinking beers at lunch before they marked my hull. Is clearly marked 1788 in 2 places. LOL ha! I'm wondering ho big of a can of worms I'm getting in to here. Boat bucks!
So I have found anther place where the hull is marked in front of the motor. The 6 and the 1 look to be patched in.. I bet someone was drinking beers at lunch before they marked my hull. Is clearly marked 1788 in 2 places. LOL ha! I'm wondering ho big of a can of worms I'm getting in to here. Boat bucks!
My '88 model has the "semi secret" interior HIN molded into the aft end top of the quarter berth. I have heard of other models with it molded into the frp engine beds. So yours might be one of those.
That impress HIN was done with a reverse readout label making device, and applied to the mold before the initial coat of gel coat went on. Perhaps someone did make an error using the Dymo Label maker?
Loren
That impress HIN was done with a reverse readout label making device, and applied to the mold before the initial coat of gel coat went on. Perhaps someone did make an error using the Dymo Label maker?
Loren
MountainSailor
Member II
Bilge pump not working.
So I found the place to put the handle for the bilge pump. Duh! Right in front of me... So I made a handle and started to pump and I could not draw water out of me bilge area atop of keel bolts. I ended up sponging it all out. It's deep and I pulled close to 10 gallons of water out. I'll can hear the pump try to push out the back but I can get it to pull water..
So I found the place to put the handle for the bilge pump. Duh! Right in front of me... So I made a handle and started to pump and I could not draw water out of me bilge area atop of keel bolts. I ended up sponging it all out. It's deep and I pulled close to 10 gallons of water out. I'll can hear the pump try to push out the back but I can get it to pull water..
Cory B
Sustaining Member
HIN Search
It is "HIN Search", an app I wrote and published in the Apple App Store. I should have an Android version out in about a month with a bit of luck.
Product web page: http://www.HINSearchPlus.com/
Apple App Store link: https://itunes.apple.com/app/hinsearch/id529669534?mt=8
I learned way too much about boat HINs and some of their peculiarities in the process.
All proceeds go to the upkeep of our Ericson sailboat.
It is "HIN Search", an app I wrote and published in the Apple App Store. I should have an Android version out in about a month with a bit of luck.
Product web page: http://www.HINSearchPlus.com/
Apple App Store link: https://itunes.apple.com/app/hinsearch/id529669534?mt=8
I learned way too much about boat HINs and some of their peculiarities in the process.
All proceeds go to the upkeep of our Ericson sailboat.
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Manual bilge pump.
Dear friend, There seems to be some disagreement in they discussion as to what model and brand bilge pump you have. If it looks like the one I attached in a previous note to you, one of the to flapper valves might be stuck open for a variety of reasons. Removal is not all that difficult and repair is somewhat easier. Debris could be holding one of the rubber valves open or corrosion could be built up beneath one or both preventing full closing. They are good pumps and they last for ever. I don't know what else to suggest at this point other than to suggest that you service the pump. All this on the assumption that there isn't something big blocking one of the large hoses (doubtful). Go for it, Glyn
Dear friend, There seems to be some disagreement in they discussion as to what model and brand bilge pump you have. If it looks like the one I attached in a previous note to you, one of the to flapper valves might be stuck open for a variety of reasons. Removal is not all that difficult and repair is somewhat easier. Debris could be holding one of the rubber valves open or corrosion could be built up beneath one or both preventing full closing. They are good pumps and they last for ever. I don't know what else to suggest at this point other than to suggest that you service the pump. All this on the assumption that there isn't something big blocking one of the large hoses (doubtful). Go for it, Glyn
MountainSailor
Member II
Pulling the pump
Thanks to all you fine folks I have located my pump and believe to know what brand and make it should be. I will be heading back to the boat later today and pulling the pump. This boat has sat for a while and I believe I may need a rebuild kit or a replacement. $200 for a new Whale Gusher 10. I have a lot of work ahead of me but I'm looking forward to it. I will probably install an auto to run of solar and battery just to cover my self. My winches are all the original Lwemars and I'll need to be cleaning and greasing those up also. I need to make a list and figure out what needs to be done first and what can wait. Thanks again everyone! You have made me feel very welcome!
Thanks to all you fine folks I have located my pump and believe to know what brand and make it should be. I will be heading back to the boat later today and pulling the pump. This boat has sat for a while and I believe I may need a rebuild kit or a replacement. $200 for a new Whale Gusher 10. I have a lot of work ahead of me but I'm looking forward to it. I will probably install an auto to run of solar and battery just to cover my self. My winches are all the original Lwemars and I'll need to be cleaning and greasing those up also. I need to make a list and figure out what needs to be done first and what can wait. Thanks again everyone! You have made me feel very welcome!
MountainSailor
Member II
Yup is a Whale Gusher 10
I have the removable aft sections in my 1/4 cabin. I was able to easily access the Bilge Pump and confirm a Whale Gusher 10. Tomorrow I will pull the hose that runes to the strainer, attach a new hose and put it in a bucket. We will see if I have a bad pump or a leak. I inspected my through hulls on the stern while I was back there. They look ok from the eye on the hard. We will see how they do after we splash it. I have confirmed my HIN in 3 places on the boat. In one of the places stamped on the stern the 7 looks a bit off also the 6 and the 1 are defiantly off on the FRP in the motor compartment. I have a new head in 2012 put on the Universal 12 I confirmed in the boat. My exhaust manifold gasket looks shot and I will be replacing all the hoses and belt. I was able to get most of the electrical systems up tonight.... Stern light and bow lights are good. The cabin lights work. My interment panel lit up so I feel like I'm off to a decent start. Could have had no lights and or power at all. Thanks a gain for the kind welcome and all the info!
I have the removable aft sections in my 1/4 cabin. I was able to easily access the Bilge Pump and confirm a Whale Gusher 10. Tomorrow I will pull the hose that runes to the strainer, attach a new hose and put it in a bucket. We will see if I have a bad pump or a leak. I inspected my through hulls on the stern while I was back there. They look ok from the eye on the hard. We will see how they do after we splash it. I have confirmed my HIN in 3 places on the boat. In one of the places stamped on the stern the 7 looks a bit off also the 6 and the 1 are defiantly off on the FRP in the motor compartment. I have a new head in 2012 put on the Universal 12 I confirmed in the boat. My exhaust manifold gasket looks shot and I will be replacing all the hoses and belt. I was able to get most of the electrical systems up tonight.... Stern light and bow lights are good. The cabin lights work. My interment panel lit up so I feel like I'm off to a decent start. Could have had no lights and or power at all. Thanks a gain for the kind welcome and all the info!
markvone
Sustaining Member
Hi MountainSailor,
I just remembered that Tim (RKCRWLR - here on the site) had an E26 named GOIN' ROGUE on GSL. His hull # is 369, even newer than yours. He didn't list his full HIN in his profile (missing the last four digits) but his build date might help figure out where yours might fall. He also probably has some history on your boat, if it lived on GSL for a while. He sent me pictures of an older series 200 E26 sitting at GSL back in 2010 when I started looking for a boat. I don't know if he is still active on this site, his last activity was in May 2012, but you can send him a private message from his profile page. He's in the middle of the 3rd page of the 'R's. The private message will go direct to his email, he doesn't have to be logged in here to get it.
I suspect he might have changed boats, because at the time (5 years ago), drought had lowered the GSL levels to a point where boats of 5 foot draft were trapped in the marinas. He had said it would take 5 years of normal snow and rainfall to regain the typical lake levels. Anyway, he was very helpful to me and might have some interesting info.
Mark
I just remembered that Tim (RKCRWLR - here on the site) had an E26 named GOIN' ROGUE on GSL. His hull # is 369, even newer than yours. He didn't list his full HIN in his profile (missing the last four digits) but his build date might help figure out where yours might fall. He also probably has some history on your boat, if it lived on GSL for a while. He sent me pictures of an older series 200 E26 sitting at GSL back in 2010 when I started looking for a boat. I don't know if he is still active on this site, his last activity was in May 2012, but you can send him a private message from his profile page. He's in the middle of the 3rd page of the 'R's. The private message will go direct to his email, he doesn't have to be logged in here to get it.
I suspect he might have changed boats, because at the time (5 years ago), drought had lowered the GSL levels to a point where boats of 5 foot draft were trapped in the marinas. He had said it would take 5 years of normal snow and rainfall to regain the typical lake levels. Anyway, he was very helpful to me and might have some interesting info.
Mark
Vagabond39
Member III
Gusher 10
Mountainsailor:
Before replacing the pump, Both West Marine and Defender have service kits for them. Also check the suction hose, it may have developed an air leak.
Bob
P. S. Welcome to the group.
Mountainsailor:
Before replacing the pump, Both West Marine and Defender have service kits for them. Also check the suction hose, it may have developed an air leak.
Bob
P. S. Welcome to the group.
Both of my gusher 10 pumps were WAY beyond repair. Not that I didn't try three times anyhow before replacing them with the new version that doesn't have the corrosion issues of the original. But I would open them up and take a look for sure, they may still be reparable.
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/entry.php?274-Manual-Bilge-Pump-Upgrade
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/entry.php?274-Manual-Bilge-Pump-Upgrade
MountainSailor
Member II
Best deal on parts??
So the a whale 10 in the head is junk and has been bypassed with me new potty. The one in the cockpit looks like it was never used.. There was very little signs of use and no signs of salt. Now I need to order parts.. I need a rebuild kit for the gusher, 2 halyards, out haul Sheve and rollers, blower hose, belt and filters for the motor and just BC I'm really feeling like working hard in small spaces I think I'll do the through hulls on the stern. They are going to be a pain to get to as I have a pedestal and wheel. What a pain. But I don't think I trust one of them so do one do all! Oh and I need an anchor light and a steaming light. BUST OUT ANOTHER THOUSAND!
So the a whale 10 in the head is junk and has been bypassed with me new potty. The one in the cockpit looks like it was never used.. There was very little signs of use and no signs of salt. Now I need to order parts.. I need a rebuild kit for the gusher, 2 halyards, out haul Sheve and rollers, blower hose, belt and filters for the motor and just BC I'm really feeling like working hard in small spaces I think I'll do the through hulls on the stern. They are going to be a pain to get to as I have a pedestal and wheel. What a pain. But I don't think I trust one of them so do one do all! Oh and I need an anchor light and a steaming light. BUST OUT ANOTHER THOUSAND!
Our original Whale aluminum body pump in the head was corroded beyond repair, and when I replaced it and re-plumbed the whole holding tank-and-hoses scheme I changed to the Whale Mk5 pump. It is mostly plastic and built for waste systems.
Loren
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whale-manual-waste-pump-BP0527.jpg