Need advice on repairing tricky electrical wind instrument

[Frank Langer]

Hi,
I try to do as many of my own repairs as possible, but this one is tricky, so advice and suggestions would be very helpful.
The 20 year old ST40 wind instrument/anemometer is showing erratic wind speeds. Raymarine tech says it's the pod containing a small circuit board at the mast head. I got up there, took apart the instrument, found the pod, cleaned it all with electrical cleaner, but it's still erratic.
I found a replacement pod in England, which looks like the circuit part, so I'm heading back up the mast tomorrow to hopefully fix it.
My problem is that the wire to the two small prongs on the pod is AWG 22, so very thin with only a few strands, and there is only about an inch extra sticking out the top of the mast, so how to connect. I'm considering stripping and soldering it, but have only limited experience soldering many years ago, and I'll be at the top of the mast with the boat bouncing in light waves. I don't know If I have enough wire to do a crimp in the existing wire and attach a small extra wire to solder to the prongs, the connection could be a bullet crimp.
Any other ideas? A replacement instrument is over $1,000 and might require running wires down the deck stepped mast, drilling new holes, etc., not a good option. I sailed for years without a wind instrument, so that might be a possibility, but knowing wind speed helps me make decisions on reefing, etc.
Thanks for any advice.
Frank

 

[jtsai]

How about use solder seal connector to connect a small extra wire? Just need a heat gun to melt the low temperature solder with flux.

 

[Frank Langer]

I have done a search on solder seal connectors, but they look exactly like heat shrink crimp connectors, which I do have. Are you saying that all these solder seal connectors need to make a firm connection is a bit of heat? That would be great, as I am not sure there is enough room there to use my clunky ratchet crimp, and soldering with a soldering iron at the top of the mast is tricky.
Frank

 

[Frank Langer]

Thanks for your reply and suggestion. I have found a video of them on You Tube, had never heard of these before! I will see if our hardware store or Chandler sells them.
Thanks again!
Frank

 

[william.haas]

A few years back my older Nexus instruments that came with the boat started showing erratic readings. I tried everything I could to troubleshoot and repair while being cost conscious (though not necessarily conscious of time value - e.g., I spent hours on forums, checking servers and settings, and even dropped our mast with our club’s crane to check some connections at the mast step). Long story short, and a second mast drop that summer later, when installing my new instruments I found a previously unknown and poorly completed splice under a very small, previously unknown stanchion leak. The instruments were and remain fine now installed on my parent’s boat with a new sender wire while I learned a valuable lesson. Interpret as you may…

 

[Frank Langer]

Thanks for that reply. I think the problem is in the pod with the small circuit board at the mast head. I will install a replacement tomorrow if weather permits. The wire goes down inside the mast, then inside the boat to the pedestal, so I think the likelihood of corrosion is slim. But if replacing the pod does not work, then that does become the next option.
Thanks again!
Frank

 

[william.haas]

Good luck! Our sender wire for those instruments had an expected connector at the mast step inside the base of the mast but also a twisted and taped connection in between the mast step and pedestal tucked in the headliner. I figure they measured once and cut twice.

 

[Frank Langer]

Although Ericsons are generally better built than many other boats, and we love sailing ours, there are many examples of where they could have done small things to make maintenance alot easier. Unfortunately, we owners of older boats that need maintenance have to contend with that.
Frank

 

[Prairie Schooner]

. . . I'm considering stripping and soldering it, but have only limited experience soldering many years ago, and I'll be at the top of the mast with the boat bouncing in light waves. . . .

One thing to keep in mind is that solder flows toward the heat. Heat the piece to be soldered (the wire in this case) then introduce the solder and let the hot work parts melt the solder. Keep the work in between the heat source and the solder to the extent you can. It helps to have a little block of wood to push against. People tend to use the iron or torch to melt the solder, which makes it stay away from the pieces to be soldered. Also, very clean joints and proper fluxing are important for good soldering. Sand down to bare metal and keep it clear of contaminants, including skin oil.
I'm afraid of heights and can't imagine doing this at the top of a mast. You already have hero status in my book.

 

[Christian Williams]

The Ray wireless anemometer is worth a look if replacing. Mine has worked well for five years and many windy miles, 12 months of the year. No cable in mast. Readout moveable as desired.

 

[Kenneth K]

Sometimes when space is tight, I've cut just the crimp body off of a ring terminal, inserted two wires into the single body, and crushed/crimped it closed with pliers. Then cover thoroughly with silicone sealant or liquid electrical tape.

It won't provide strain relief like a normal butt-splice though, so take that into consideration.

 

[Frank Langer]

Thanks to you all for your helpful comments. I climbed the mast tower today to the top of the mast and after a few failed attempts, was able to solder the wires in place--had to crimp on a wire extension, figure out how to hold a small 1" diameter circuit board part, thin 22awg wire, solder and a pencil soldering iron while the boat is swaying gently with the waves. But the solder held and the display seems to be working properly with the new part from England--none available in north America, all obsolete after 25 years.
My wife said buy a new instrument for over $1,000 or at least hire a pro to do the job, at $125/hr., but though it took me four hours of problem solving, careful work at the mast head and a $240 part, I got it done.
Just saying, trying to fix something yourself can be frustrating, but is ultimately satisfying and can save lots of money.
Thanks again for your help and encouragement.
Frank

 

[toddster]

Does it work now? My ST40 wind instrument was always disappointing. Lately, it has been showing wind direction rotating constantly around 360° (although it really can do that in a couple of nearby places.) But sometimes it works OK. It appears that the most erratic behavior happens when the Raymarine a78 MFD is also turned on.
Good luck!

Well, graduated to the bigger boat now, equipped with B&G. Trying to get the 22 y/o stuff to work with the new stuff. Somehow, it never ends.

 

[Frank Langer]

Does it work now? My ST40 wind instrument was always disappointing. Lately, it has been showing wind direction rotating constantly around 360° (although it really can do that in a couple of nearby places.) But sometimes it works OK. It appears that the most erratic behavior happens when the Raymarine a78 MFD is also turned on.
Good luck!

Well, graduated to the bigger boat now, equipped with B&G. Trying to get the 22 y/o stuff to work with the new stuff. Somehow, it never ends.

My ST40 wind vane had been working perfectly, until it recently began showing erratic wind speed. Although the Raymarine tech said it couldn't be repaired, I bought a new pod with the tiny circuit board that sits inside the aluminum post below the three spinning vanes. The difficulty is that the wires are tiny, break easily and need to be soldered to the small pod. My first attempts failed, but after four hours and repeated efforts and different strategies, it works. Wind was light today, so I haven't seen it in stronger winds, but what I saw looked accurate. I haven't had issues with wind direction on the display, but by habit I rely more on the mast head Windex. I'm guessing a new pod/circuit board would solve erratic wind direction too.
Frank

 

[Kenneth K]

Just saying, trying to fix something yourself can be frustrating, but is ultimately satisfying and can save lots of money.

I couldn't agree more. It also builds your knowledge base, increases confidence and enhances self-sufficiency.

Not all of us can take two years off to go sail the seven seas. But sometimes I take a slight satisfaction in imagining, when fixing something new to me, that I'm exercising a resourcefulness similar to that salty old sailor, fixing his boat with his own hands and his own tools, miles and miles away from a yard or a crane or a machine shop.

I still pay my dentist full price, however (after insurance). Some jobs just shouldn't be attempted at home.

 

[Saverio]

The Ray wireless anemometer is worth a look if replacing. Mine has worked well for five years and many windy miles, 12 months of the year. No cable in mast. Readout moveable as desired.

Good morning we have it on our racing boat (Bavaria 35 match) 10 years have passed, caught a storm 58 kn never had any problems, still perfect.

 

[R22QuietThing]

A new Raymarine anemometer is $350 at Defender. I'd wonder whether 20 year old bearings would have much life left. That thing is up there spinning 24/7/365 through all kinds of weather.

 

[Frank Langer]

A new Raymarine anemometer is $350 at Defender. I'd wonder whether 20 year old bearings would have much life left. That thing is up there spinning 24/7/365 through all kinds of weather.

Thanks! The replacement pod with circuit board contains new bearings, so that's no problem. However before ordering the pod I checked it at the top of the mast, hoping it was just the vane stuck a bit, but it was turning freely. I do add a drop of lube annually to keep it turning, but that wasn't the problem.
With the new pod it looks to be working perfectly, but I'll monitor it closely. The cost of the new one at Defender is likely one with wires that I would need to thread down the deck stepped mast, which is a real problem, and the wireless ones are much more expensive. I'm hoping this one will last till I'm done sailing.
Frank

 

[southofvictor]

Wow nice job @Frank Langer ! I have a Garmin GWS10 which has an anemometer that doesn’t turn below about 5 kts and I’ve been trying to troubleshoot it. Lube doesn’t seem to help, think the bearing might be shot. Where did you find the repair part for yours? I havent been able to find anything online for mine.

 

[Frank Langer]

Hi, I found only two of these Raymarine ST40 wind instrument pods in the whole world. One was on a French site, and tho I know some French from high school, it's not enough to problem solve if issues arise.
The other site can be reached at: JGtech.com and my main contact was John G. in England. They were very responsive and sent me the correct part. I don't know if they will have your Garmin part, but it's worth a try.
They have large chandlery that goes by a different name, but I'm at anchor on my boat and that info is at home. If you can't reach them, let me know and I'll look it up when I'm home in a few days.
Frank