1984 ericson 30+ parts no.?

juni

Member I
Juni,
The water heater is only useful if you are staying at shorepower and want to do dishes, have a shower, wash hands in warm water. If those are not needed, you can remove the water heater, which will give you more space in the cockpit locker.
I sold my fifteen year old still working water heater for $50.

Hello Frank, aye, gonna remove it, want to fix stuffing box drip, any suggestions? Wonder if I did something that affected the suction at the bilge. it was working until I noticed one day the hose lacked suction, it had only been used a total of 3 hrs all of last summer, the pressure pump isn't defective but only drops from tap. Need to leave this dockyard on the 15th. Am I being reckless to sail with a genny which needs uv cover re stitched? 5 yr old sail but due to poor seamanship the stitching is suspect, am hoping it can hold for the sail to new berth, albeit, wind forecast appears ideal for sailing under main, spare the genny. Have learned that not everyone knows their boat after only a few months ownership, was disappointed with my progress, the delays. Thank you for your advise, patience, have a fantastic season, fair winds...
 

juni

Member I
Juni,
The water heater is only useful if you are staying at shorepower and want to do dishes, have a shower, wash hands in warm water. If those are not needed, you can remove the water heater, which will give you more space in the cockpit locker.
I sold my fifteen year old still working water heater for $50.
Frank
Hello Frank, any suggestions for fixing drip on stuffing box? Is it necessary to remove pedestal for shifter cable installation? A mechanic is going to tune up, connect cable to tranny from opening on bulkhead, have to crawl in to guide to. pedestal. What could be a reason for there to be no suction from hose end in bilge? Worked all summer, noticed there was no suction in winter, pump is operating, wonder if I flipped a seacock under the head sink, uncertain. Does the E30+ have a valve for discharge off shore? Have to sail out of here next Monday, 15th, hope I can use the genny with a uv cover needing re stitching, think it's reckless but have no choice, I'm a novice, have you sailed under main only with 10kn breeze? Thanks for the advise, thank you for your patience, have a fantastic evening
 

mjsouleman

Sustaining Member
Moderator
I took pictures today while doing some light maintenance in the port locker, where I access the transmission, heat exchanger, water heater, steering cables and rudder post.
In the first pic you can see that the exhaust hose is somewhat in the way, but by leaning in it with my left hand, my right hand is free to check the tranny fluid level, the PSS, and the rear of the engine while laying on my left side with feet towards the stern.
The next pic shows the stern area with strong quadrant, cables, and rudder post for lubricating all these. I lay on my right side with feet forward to the exhaust hose and have no problem reaching back there. I am 5' 8", about 158 lbs., 72 years old.
Maybe the pics will help you figure out access in your boat, and I recognize that your boat may be organized a bit differently.
Frank
Fank, Nice job, ervything is shipshape there.
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Hello Frank, any suggestions for fixing drip on stuffing box? Is it necessary to remove pedestal for shifter cable installation? A mechanic is going to tune up, connect cable to tranny from opening on bulkhead, have to crawl in to guide to. pedestal. What could be a reason for there to be no suction from hose end in bilge? Worked all summer, noticed there was no suction in winter, pump is operating, wonder if I flipped a seacock under the head sink, uncertain. Does the E30+ have a valve for discharge off shore? Have to sail out of here next Monday, 15th, hope I can use the genny with a uv cover needing re stitching, think it's reckless but have no choice, I'm a novice, have you sailed under main only with 10kn breeze? Thanks for the advise, thank you for your patience, have a fantastic evening
I have replaced the cables by pushing them down the pedestal, then pushing them down by the rudder post under the fuel tank and coming out by the transmission. It wasn't difficult and didn't require removing the pedestal. The throttle cable runs a bit differently but was also not hard. I did reroute the cables a bit and was able to use a shorter cable with less bends, which makes it smoother to operate.
Yes, you can sail an E30+ with just the mainsail, but it may actually sail a bit faster with just a headsail, depending on the size of your headsail. Mine is a 125%.
Our boat does have an overboard holding tank discharge as well as a pumpout, but I don't know if that was installed on all E30+ boats.
Frank
 

mjsouleman

Sustaining Member
Moderator
I have replaced the cables by pushing them down the pedestal, then pushing them down by the rudder post under the fuel tank and coming out by the transmission. It wasn't difficult and didn't require removing the pedestal. The throttle cable runs a bit differently but was also not hard. I did reroute the cables a bit and was able to use a shorter cable with less bends, which makes it smoother to operate.
Yes, you can sail an E30+ with just the mainsail, but it may actually sail a bit faster with just a headsail, depending on the size of your headsail. Mine is a 125%.
Our boat does have an overboard holding tank discharge as well as a pumpout, but I don't know if that was installed on all E30+ boats.
Frank
I did mine the same way many years ago. The cable sheath sprung a leak and there was a cobweb of wire everywhere.
 

juni

Member I
I have replaced the cables by pushing them down the pedestal, then pushing them down by the rudder post under the fuel tank and coming out by the transmission. It wasn't difficult and didn't require removing the pedestal. The throttle cable runs a bit differently but was also not hard. I did reroute the cables a bit and was able to use a shorter cable with less bends, which makes it smoother to operate.
Yes, you can sail an E30+ with just the mainsail, but it may actually sail a bit faster with just a headsail, depending on the size of your headsail. Mine is a 125%.
Our boat does have an overboard holding tank discharge as well as a pumpout, but I don't know if that was installed on all E30+ boats.
Frank
Thank you, feel stupid, bought the 12' cable because i didn't imagine it could be re routed, failure to ask the savvy is taxîng. Fair wînds...
 

juni

Member I
This be moments when i be remînded to express gratitude for everyone's patience, advise. Learned to sail 30 yrs ago, abroad, upon returning at turn of the century bought a 1983 O'day25, didn't know, no one ever mentioned sailing school. Sailing for Dummies was my school, hands on training without supervision, coùnsel, help. I be lucky the cat and i could sail before nyc remembered we be islanders ànd allowed more ferry operations, jetskis, planes on the river and harbor. Never learned to reef, never learned to use a spinnaker. Never learned what it means when a sailor says, 'it's all technical' when the topic is crissing the Atlantic. I have to be alone, never figured out why, it just makes sense. The world isn't the same it was before the new millénium, lucky I traveled before tech made it appear small to many who rather look at videos than have cultural exchanges. My apologies, i keep log at stay, underway and when i visit my apt. I remember wanting to be a writer, sailing isn't always pretty, liveaboard life is challenging all the time, especially for sailors who keep local. My offshore sailing was easy compared to sailing in nyharbor. I be lucky to have patient, knowledgeable sailors share with me, thank you, thank you for your patience. Is it advised to sail to Ocean city coastal from nyc? Want to go Memorial day weekend, no autopilot, sîglehanded, granny turnîng 91, forgot everyone's name but mine. I can't board a jet, i be averse to poor etiquette, insolent, entitled passengers hence it behooves me to avoid flying...
 

juni

Member I
Juni,
As many have said, the E30+ is a great boat, much better designed and built than either
a Catalina 30 or an O'day, both of which I've sailed.
None of the problems you list above are insurmountable, so to start on a few:
The nav equipment not working could be as simple as a loose or corroded connection. If you know how to use a Multi meter you can problem solve along the wiring. Raymarine has a very helpful tech department which you may find useful.
The pressure water issue could be as simple as checking to see if the pump will come on. If not, is there voltage at the pump, a broken fuse, loose connection, plugged vent hose, enough water in the tank? If necessary, a new water pump is less than $200.
If your boat has a stuffing box rather than a packless shaft seal, it should drip a bit while the engine is running to keep the shaft from overheating in the stuffing box, but it should not drip with the engine off. As long as there is a pick up strainer somewhere in the bilge (original was attached to a red hose) having the bilge pump located separately in the quarter berth in a porthole is good, as it keeps wires and pump out of the wet bilge. These pumps can last 20 years, and if needed can be bought for about $150.
For your ice box/refrigeration, you can buy icebox conversion kits (mine is a Norcold, which has now worked well for 14 years, but there are also other brands), but they do cost about $1,000 (still much cheaper than your NYC rent).
Your lack of access to the water tanks can also be readily solved. The main tank is under the starboard settee, and I if you have the optional tank, it's under the large locker under the v berth cushions, but you have to empty that locker, remove the screws holding the floor piece in place, lift it out and you'll see the tank. Cut a hole in the top of the tanks with a jig saw and cover the hole with a plastic port (about $10 each at a chandlery). The port comes with a frame with screw holes, so just caulk the rim with a good sealant and screw it down. The port unscrews from the frame with a simple twist when you want to check tank level or clean the tank.
Most of us have done these and other modifications and repairs over the years, and can provide guidance--it's part of boat ownership.
You have a well built boat and an engine with a good reputation. If you can do the suggested work, or get help from a good friend, or if necessary hire a pro (but check around to ensure you get someone reputable), you will have a boat that looks great, sails well and you'll gradually learn her systems and parts.
Finally, before we bought our 1984 E30+, she had been owned by a lady with a cat who lived aboard comfortably for two years. :)
Frank
Hello Frank, how to access bow cleat nuts? Liner in Vberth doesn't have zipper, do i have to remove it and replace to tighten bow cleats? Portside bow cleat is loose, going to a mooring in less than a fortnight, have had to do more work on a boat i paid more for than my previous ones. Mostly work to have access to spots one needs to keep an eye on. Tempted to haul out and sell her, why wouldn't there be access to bow cleats from Vberth? Rhank you for your patience
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Hello Frank, how to access bow cleat nuts? Liner in Vberth doesn't have zipper, do i have to remove it and replace to tighten bow cleats? Portside bow cleat is loose, going to a mooring in less than a fortnight, have had to do more work on a boat i paid more for than my previous ones. Mostly work to have access to spots one needs to keep an eye on. Tempted to haul out and sell her, why wouldn't there be access to bow cleats from Vberth? Rhank you for your patience
Juni,
Ii think there are 3 options to reach the bow cleats. One is removing the headliner. I have not done that so can't comment on how tricky that might be. The next is removing the anchor well which I and others have done to rebed it when it leaked. That took me an afternoon of patient work but gives reasonable saves to the bow cleat bolts. The last way that I have used is to remove the trim and boards under the anchor locker at the front of the v berth to reach the cleat bolts/nuts from inside. I did that years ago and remember it was tough to reach them there with a socket wrench, but I managed to do so.
Good luck with whichever option you choose.
Frank
 

juni

Member I
Juni,
Ii think there are 3 options to reach the bow cleats. One is removing the headliner. I have not done that so can't comment on how tricky that might be. The next is removing the anchor well which I and others have done to rebed it when it leaked. That took me an afternoon of patient work but gives reasonable saves to the bow cleat bolts. The last way that I have used is to remove the trim and boards under the anchor locker at the front of the v berth to reach the cleat bolts/nuts from inside. I did that years ago and remember it was tough to reach them there with a socket wrench, but I managed to do so.
Good luck with whichever option you choose.
Frank
Removing the headliner isn't ideal unless i want to replace it, which i don't. Appears it'd have to be removed permanently to access nuts for rigging, stanchions. No zippers means removal with intent to replace, don't know where I'd go to have it replaced. Will try the anchor locker, didn't know it could be removed. Thank you Frank, am trying to get back to sailing so i don't allow myself to become overwhelmed with disappointment. Have a fantastic weekend
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Removing the headliner isn't ideal unless i want to replace it, which i don't. Appears it'd have to be removed permanently to access nuts for rigging, stanchions. No zippers means removal with intent to replace, don't know where I'd go to have it replaced. Will try the anchor locker, didn't know it could be removed. Thank you Frank, am trying to get back to sailing so i don't allow myself to become overwhelmed with disappointment. Have a fantastic weekend
Juni,
When I removed the anchor locker there were about 24 screws along the lip of the anchor locker, which were fairly easy to remove. The harder part was using a one inch putty knife blade to slide under the lip to break the caulking seal on the under side of the anchor locker lip--that took alot of patience but I eventually got it free all around. Then I was able to simply lift the locker plan out.
Use a good quality caulk to rebed it to ensure it doesn't leak afterwards.:)
Frank
 
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