starting issues and hot water tank

My Universal M25xp does not always crank over when I hit the starter button; sometimes I need to hit it 4 or 5 times, but it has always started. Any ideas? Possibly the starter solenoid is bad? I replaced it a couple years ago, and have also replaced the starter button itself 2x.

Also, does the hot water tank/heater get filled automatically when I fill the water tanks? I can't get any hot water....even when I run the engine. I have not used the heater, for fear of burning it out, if the tank is not filled.

Thanks for your time.
Howard

I know what you mean about the starter buttons. Next time nothing happens, stop and jump the button with a wire or screwdriver behind the cockpit panel. That will prove it's the button. They get salt in them. A few crystals will do it. We're supposed to use water resistant button units, the ones with rubber external covers.

If not that, check the connections on the cockpit panel, they tend to vibrate loose. Then the grounds on the engine block.

Regarding the water heater, some installations have a (hidden?) valve to shut off circulation to the heater.

edit: uh. I see you're in Ohio. But even without salt, the buttons corrode.

Some water heaters have a reset button.
Frank

Water heater

With a pressurized water system your water tank should fill with water unless there is a dedicated shutoff valve. To tell if the heater is full of water, turn on the water pump and lift the lever on the temp/pressure relief valve. You should have water coming out. If you have water coming out but it's not hot then check the reset button and breaker for the heater. If you don't have water coming out of either of the faucets then it's a pump issue.

Check the lines going into and out of your tank. The hot water tank on my E34 does not fill because the previous owner coupled them together causing the tank to be bypassed. My guess is that this was done for winter storage or the tank is shot. Hot water? maybe next year.
I also have the same starter problem and recently replaced the starter button. Its not the button. I read somewhere that the problem is related to the way that the boat is wired and can be rectified by installing a solenoid . I'll try and find the info and post the link.

Replacing a water heater is fairly easy and fairly cheap.

You may not have the access issues I did. Blog entry here.

Starter/ing Issue

I also have the same issue when starting my M25xp (from dead cold). Hold down the glow plug button for a 30 count and push the starter button; I can hear the starter solenoid engage but the starter doesn't turn. Push the starer button repeatedly and off she goes.
Electrical problems aren't my forte, but I've read a lot of posts on the Catalina 34 forum (C34.org) that seem to point to a wiring issue that can be resolved by adding a solenoid to the glow plug circuit.
Not saying that this is the answer, but it sounds like it's worked for others.

http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?t...oid#.3D.3D.3D_Using_a_relay_to_fire_the_plugs

The topic is classic Ericson (and probably all older boats) and a perennial subject.

Here is a key link: Metzger on rewiring schemes: http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoex...Wiring-Modifications-How-To&p=83793#post83793

Here is the first of four blog entries in which an amateur struggles through: http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoex...5-Engine-Wiring-Upgrade-Part-1-Cockpit-Gauges

Also, Diesels need a robust starter motor response to get going. It could be batteries. But several of us have found our starter motors turned out to be the issue. They can be rebuilt fairly easily for not much dough. Start with post #6 or so: http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoex...drometer-plus-potential-starter-motor-isssues

25XP starting issues

I had the same issue for several years. It worsened to the point where I couldn't turn the engine over, ultimately failing the solenoid, and replacing the starter twice, and normally went through a battery every other year.

Last winter I had the wiring harness replaced. The electrician talked me into adding a slave relay, so that starting current didn't need to run from the batts, to the control panel, then to the starter. Now, starting current runs from the batt to the starter- about 18" of wire.

This season I had absolutely no problems. Only takes~10 seconds of glow plug and the engine fires up every time. Batts aren't run down, engine fires within 3 secs of pushing the button.

My rec is to do the same. You will never again wonder whether the thing is going to run.

CTO