Sole refinish
Christian,
My sole was screwed down. No glue to be found.
I had posted the process in 2014 when I removed and replaced with homemade tongue and groove. I can't seem to find the post on the site now?
So, here we go:
My old floor came up in pieces so we used 2 inch wide door skin strips to make a template. Cut the strip to the correct length, hot glue to the next piece as you progress around the boat. Make sure the templates can fit through the hatch if you are going to make large replacement panels.
We used 1/2 marine grade plywood for a subfloor. The subfloor was cut to fit the TAFG so that we would always have a place to screw down adjoining pieces. The subfloor was treated on all sides with epoxy for waterproofing. Once the subfloor was in place we marked and cut for bilge access. We added an access hatch to the area just below the companion way ladder.
Once the Subfloor was in place and screwed down we started with teak and maple strips. These were secured with epoxy and a screw here and there. We spent considerable time on the layout. The focal point/center line of the floor was where it met the mast. We made sure that the maple strip lined up with the center of the mast and worked to port and starboard from that line.
All of the trim was remade using teak strips.
We used Bona floor poly thinned with Interlux 333 for the 1st two coats. I believe it was a 30% mixture. This raised the grain and sealed the wood. We sanded with 150 grit prior to the first coat. We sanded with 220 on coats 2 thru 7. We used a 4 inch foam brush to apply.
I just refinished the floor this month. It had held well, but, I wanted to give it more protection from the rugrats. I was unable to find the original floor poly and contacted Bona. They had replaced it with Woodline oil-modified floor polyurethane. This product was as good as the original. I scuffed the floor with 220 grit for the first coat and then used 320 grit for the last 6 coats. After sanding I vacuum, wipe with a water dampened cloth and then wipe with mineral spirit dampened cloth. Just before I apply finish I use a tack rag with very little pressure. I filter the finish from the can into a new plastic paint tray liner and throw away any excess finish. I used a 6 inch foam roller and a 4 inch foam brush to tip off. I always brush back into the area I just worked so that I maintain a wet edge. Resist the desire to remove specs or hairs unless you are working that area. With the bilge covers out you have plenty of access without walking on the floor. Natural light is the best for picking up dry spots or blemishes. Open your curtains and remove your hatch covers.
An enjoyable project and brings a great look to the boat.