Sta-Lok Swageless Fittings

Dave G.

1984 E30+ Ludington, MI
Curious if anyone has used these fittings and how they did or didn't work out. Pain in the butt or fairly easy to use ? How are they holding up ? etc...
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
I haven't used them, but my reading about them has not revealed any problems with them. One advantage is that they can be replaced quite easily by a knowledgeable boat owner without rigging tools or rigger expertise, like if going offshore.
But they do have to be done properly, though there are good instructional videos about that.
Frank
 

Pete the Cat

Sustaining Member
I have used them. They are fairly easy to put together if you follow the directions carefully (I am sure there is a Youtube on it). However, getting the length of a shroud or stay requires some careful measurement or you can end up with something too short or long if you are doing it yourself. Don't ask how I learned this. Harken used to have the "go to" directions for measuring and cutting these for their furlers and I am not sure that instructions actually come with the fittings--they assume you know how to do it. Make sure you have good tools for cutting and bending wire, you only get one shot at cutting and bending without messing up the overall length.
 
Last edited:

Kenneth K

1985 32-3, Puget Sound
Blogs Author
Check out Hayn Hi-Mod fittings too. Very similar to Sta-lock but they have an inner crown to keep the spacing on all the outer-wrap wires evenly spaced when installing the fitting.
 

Afrakes

Sustaining Member
I used Hi-Mod fittings when replacing all of the standing rigging on my 28/2. Easy to work with and you can reuse fittings. Getting things apart is tricky but it can be done.
 

Dave G.

1984 E30+ Ludington, MI
I used Hi-Mod fittings when replacing all of the standing rigging on my 28/2. Easy to work with and you can reuse fittings. Getting things apart is tricky but it can be done.
Did you use any sealant and or Loc-tite when installing these ?
 

Pete the Cat

Sustaining Member
I would use whatever the company recommends. I have tried to disassemble stuff put together with the high strength Loctite and it can be nearly impossible even with two good wrenches. These fittings generally have very good mechanical connections and most have reusable parts incase something does not fit. I feel about high strength Locktite, like I feel about 5200: I would only use it on something where it is required by the manufacturer or something I never, ever intend to remove. As you are aware there are various strengths of Locktite, so the lesser might be fine. Some of the old fittings (Norseman, no longer around, I think) used to require sealant because they did not want water to freeze in them and break seals. The folks who leave their rigs up in winter have had cracked swages and I guess that could be a problem in the voids. FWIW.
 

bigd14

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
I used a Sta Lok fitting when replacing the headstay last year, when I got a new furler. It was easy to install, although I had to guess a little as to the length to cut. I used Hayn Hi Mods for all lower terminals on an E27 back in 2008 and they are still going strong. I did not use sealant or Loc Tite on the Sta Lok as they apparently no longer recommend it.
 

Kenneth K

1985 32-3, Puget Sound
Blogs Author
I have a Hi-Mod in my garage waiting to go on my new headstay. Hayn calls for the use of Loctite 277 on the threads, but NOT the use sealant inside the fitting. https://hayn.com/marine-rigging/res...ons/hi-mod-compression-fittings-installation/

Apparently, it was old practice on mechanical fittings to fill the body with Sikaflex before assembling. It seems this is now frowned upon. My guess is that there was no way to keep water from penetrating the inner cable strands and still seeping down into the fitting. If filled with Sikaflex, the water then had no way to exit and was trapped in the mostly airtight fitting: Stainless steel + water + no oxygen = rusting.

Also, Loctite doesn't bond well to stainless steel so the risk of difficult removal is probably lessened vs carbon-steel bolts.
 

Afrakes

Sustaining Member
The judicious use of heat helps release Loc-Tite thread sealant. Also apply sparingly when assembling. Not much is required. Of course, I sail in fresh water and my rig comes down in the off season which means less concern about corrosion. Year round Salties have more concerns.
 

ConchyDug

Member III
Like Afrakes you need to use a heat gun to get high strength Loctite to release. If I remember right it's around the 350-500°F mark. One drop is all you need don't coat the entire thread area or you'll have a bad time.
 
Top