Shifter problem

[Kim Schoedel]

Shifting from forward to neutral to reverse and visa versa is becoming more difficult as time goes by. There seems to be a bind of some sort and it feels like it may be internal where the shifter lever shaft must pivot inside the binacle. I have watched the shift cable way under the cockpit while someone is moving the shifter to see if the cable is kinking or doing something weird. Looks ok. Don't look forward to taking the binacle apart. Looks like a big chore. But have to do something. Anyone out there had the same problem? Please help and thanks.

 

[Kim Schoedel]

I forgot to mention that the pedestal and gear is YS (Yacht Specialties)

 

[Loren Beach]

YS : orphan parts...

We have a YS pedistal on our '88. Same problem for the ten years we have owned the boat. The internal lube in those red jacketed cables must harden or migrate away from pressure points or ?? FWIW, improved-quality push-pull cables are easy to source, although said to be quite challenging to install!

The movement in ours is "really stiff but OK" in warm weather and nearly stuck solid in the mid winter.
It's on my "List" for maybe next year.... either rebuild the system with new shift/throttle cables, and overhaul the link chain and steering cables and repaint the aluminum pedistal.

Or, just spec out a replacement steering system from Edson in drag-link or wire cable design...
Or return to the stock tiller and patch the hole in the cockpit floor! (And finally have some real room in the cockpit and let us sit down with a hiking stick in hand while steering...)


Loren

 

[Lew Decker]

Ditto. YS gear here as well. The shifter has been stiff from day one. I thought about thrashing around to fix it, but it shifts. The work involved to replace the cable isn't worth the scraped knuckles/grease/bilge rash/head banging/where does this go? (circle one or more) crap you have to go through .

 

[Tom Plummer]

To free up the cable relube it.
Go to a motorcycle shop and get yourself a universal throttle cable lube kit. The kit includes a set includes fittings which clamp onto the end of the cable and a pressurized can of cable lubricant. One can of lube should be enough as the kit is designed for repeated use. Clamp the fitting on you shift cable and squirt away, the pressurized lube will flush all of the old hard lube out and relube the cable in the process.

 

[Kim Schoedel]

Thank you everyone for the input. We purchased the boat in Oct 2005 and the shifter was stiff then. The PO said that it has been this way for the 12 years of his ownership. HOWEVER, he didn't really use the boat much. I have been on it a bunch and this problem is progressive it is getting much worse. So looks like I have some work to do. I was wondering if there is some kind of bushing that surounds the "axle" that the shift handle attaches to. has anyone out there had the opportunity to tear into this part of the problem?

 

[Kim Schoedel]

Ok, yes an older overweight sailor can lay on his belly over the top of the frame for the engine cover with his feet on the nav table, head down below the top of the engine, blood rushing to the brain and successfully remove the cotter pin with one hand to detach the shift cable from the shift lever at the transmission. Whew! Process of elimination, the shift lever worked back and forth through forward, neutral, reverse and such with finger pressure only. So, no transmission problems. I hired a fellow 35-3 owner (cost me a couple beers) to work the shifter from the helm and no binding/friction detected. But it was a bit stiff. Next the binacle. Learning quickly that stainless steel bolts into aluminum like to seize. Finally (with penatrating oil) was able to remove the 4 bolts that attach the compass housing to the top ring of the pedestal without breaking them. Wanted to remove the ring on the top of the pedestal (another 4 big bolts) got all but 1 bolt loose. Started to run out of time so I just sprayed the penatrating oil on the cable where it slides into the red cover and worked the shifter back and forth about a zillion times and it freed up considerably. Quick fix this is, but with huge success. With more time, I plan to drill out the stuck bolt and therefore get access to the top of the cable and try the M/C throttle cable lube kit program. I think this will be the fix. If not I can remove the cable, order a new one and replace.
Thanks again for all the help on this.

 

[Tom Plummer]

Kim,

The great thing about the M/C lube thing is that because it is pressurized you can apply it from either end of the cable.

 

[Kim Schoedel]

Hi Tom, I think now that I have taken apart the binacle (and know how), and have found a seized bolt (this is now bugging me big time), I will dissasemble again and lube from the top. The teak ring is in need of refinishing. Besides, I am not sure if I can crawl back out of the engine compartment again. Might need a cherry picker to haul me back out. Will be looking for a M/C shop to get the can of lube for the final fix. Thanks Again!!

 

[SeaDog]

I replaced the shift cable on my E32 last month. Other than requiring a contortionist to gain access to the transmission linkage, and the usual seized bolts, the change out was not difficult.
· Remove the compass
· Remove the top compass ring.
· Remove the cotter pin.
· Remove the nut and bolt holding the cable to the YS steering pedestal.
· Remove the two nuts from the cable.
· Loosen the screw that clamps the cable into the holder.
· Attach a 1/8” inch cord to the shift cable and pull it out at the base of the pedestal (Once again, a contortionist is required here)
· Detach the other end from the transmission linkage and cable attachment.
· Attach the new cable to the cord and pull it through (need one person below and one on top).
· Put the transmission in neutral. Attach the cable 50% extended. Adjust to insure solid engagement for forward and reverse.

Kirby Holte
Skipper, Uff Da, E32
Alamitos Bay, CA

 

[Kim Schoedel]

Thanks Kirby, appreciate your info.