Secondary fuel bleed screw threading stripped.

[Jeff Asbury]

Well the bleed screw threading on the Fuel Filter housing on the secondary fuel filter on my Yanmar 1GM10 appears to be stripped and is leaking. I knew it was probably stripped the last time I replaced the filter & bled the lines, but it did not leak. I had not ran the engine for about a month and now it is leaking.

First off, Has anyone here ordered from Shipstore.com http://www.shipstore.com ??

Our So Cal distributor for Yanmar ( boatswainslocker.com ) is closed to do inventory this week, but I was able to get a price quote from one of the dealers they supply at roughly $90.00 for a Yanmar 1GM10 Fuel Filter Assembly part Y124790-55601. I knew any parts for Yanmar are expensive but I thought there had to be more competitive prices on line. What I discovered are several sites like Marine Diesel Direct http://www.marinedieseldirect.com that can only deliver to the East Coast for some reason. ?? Once I was able to find the part number for what I needed I Googled the number. After looking at a couple sites in the U.K. I found Shipstore.com. They had the part listed for $49.61 + $13.00 shipping. for a total of $62.61. $27.39 cheaper! I went ahead and ordered the part, but I am a bit concerned because the site did not provide a image of the part and their policy states they have a no return policy.

Second off, I don't have much experience with replacing fuel line parts on the engine it's self that involve copper washers / banjo fitting and annealing them for a tight seal. I have watched a mechanic replace small oil line on my engine with copper washers / banjo fitting but he did not anneal the copper washer, like I have read that you should. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I hate fuel leaks!

btw, I got a quote from that local Yanmar Service / Dealer to come down to the boat just about a mile away from my Marina and the quoted me $190.00 (2 hrs) for the labor alone.

Hopefully Shipstore.com will be sending me the right part.

Yanmar 1GM10 Fuel Filter Assembly part Y124790-55601

Here are a couple photos of the Fuel Filter assembly I plan to replace.

 

[Glyn Judson]

Fuel filter assembly.

Jeff, Sorry to hear that your filter assembly went south. A possible fix might be to contact this eBay seller: 221313725364 to see if the threads are OK in his part. Heck, pay the $30.00, install it and when the new one arrives you'll have a spare. All the best and have a happy Thanksgiving, Glyn

 

[Jeff Asbury]

Jeff, Sorry to hear that your filter assembly went south. A possible fix might be to contact this eBay seller: 221313725364 to see if the threads are OK in his part. Heck, pay the $30.00, install it and when the new one arrives you'll have a spare. All the best and have a happy Thanksgiving, Glyn

Thanks Glyn, I saw that E-bay post in my earlier searches. I thought about it but I was just concerned that that one may be stripped as well. I have read that the housing is aluminum and they do go south often. I think I also read on Cruisers Forum or Sail Net, I can remember which, that some were made of a stronger metal. I also read about tapping and going to a larger screw / bolt, like 12mm, vs the 12mm that is on there, but where do I get the bigger bleed screw? I guess I could make one. Well I have had bigger challenges with my old boat and engine.

Happy Thanksgiving to You, Marilyn & Frank too Glyn!

 

[Alan Gomes]

Sorry to hear about the bleed screw problem

Please report back after you repair it, Jeff. I've got a 1GM in my E26-2 and I, too, have read stories of that bleed screw going south. I guess it's not an uncommon failure, unfortunately. I'd be curious as to how easily you are able to swap it out.

Hope you get back up and running really quickly and with little fuss.

 

[clp]

Oh wow, that is a too simple of a job mate. Seriously, first off get away from that "fuel anxiety" thingy. Having replaced a hundred of these washers there's no VooDoo to it. If I have the time, I like to lay a piece of about 220 wet sand paper on something flat, and scuff them well. I have never once had a leak. Really, you don't even have to do that, just slap the puppies on there. If you're careful about it, shut all your fuel valves, get the lines on there, prime the filter. The engine should fire immediately. Because there may be a small bubble left in the system, shoving the throttle open hard if it starts to stagger and sometimes it'll pas and go. You'll be able to tell if you have to bleed the whole system by how much fuel comes out of the line that goes to the pump. If it drains a lot, of course you'll have to go on up the line and hand bleed the upper side of the line at the pump. I would strongly consider bleeding it at the pump before I ever turned it over. If it catches and stalls, won't crank in short order, the whole system from bowl to pump will need to be bled again, and this time probably at the injectors as well. Don't bother loosening injector lines at the pump, that's generally a waste of time.

 

[Tom Metzger]

First off, Has anyone here ordered from Shipstore.com http://www.shipstore.com ??

Ok, now you are in my territory. I have known these guys for years and they are reliable. It's the family that runs Westport Marina on Lk Champlain. The only proviso is that I haven't actually ordered anything from them in a while... I can just go to the marina. When I needed a Yanmar fuel pump while on a trip they got it to me very fast.

 

[Jeff Asbury]

Ok, now you are in my territory. I have known these guys for years and they are reliable. It's the family that runs Westport Marina on Lk Champlain. The only proviso is that I haven't actually ordered anything from them in a while... I can just go to the marina. When I needed a Yanmar fuel pump while on a trip they got it to me very fast.

Thanks Tom, good to know! I will report back when the part arrives.

Also thanks clp , yes I will be going to diy this thing. Do you recommend annealing them with a heat gun or propane torch first for a tight seal? I have also heard a torque wrench is a good idea. I guess I'm being just a bit paranoid. I have replace both filters and bleed the lines many times. I do just about all the maintenance on my engine myself, like changing the oil, replacing the zinc in the engine and replacing the water pump and impeller and so on.

 

[Meanolddad]

Hi Jeff

If you use all new copper washers you will not have to anneal them. They get hard after use, so you can heat them to soften them again. Just buy new ones and put them in. If you want help, let me know and I will swing down and give you a hand.

Good luck
Greg

 

[Jeff Asbury]

Don"t order from ships store . Com !!

Hi Jeff

If you use all new copper washers you will not have to anneal them. They get hard after use, so you can heat them to soften them again. Just buy new ones and put them in. If you want help, let me know and I will swing down and give you a hand.

Good luck
Greg

Thanks for the tip Greg.

Well on another note. Don't order from http://www.shipstore.com !! I think I learned a lesson here about on line shopping. It has been 21 days since I ordered the Yanmar secondary fuel filter assembly from this company called http://www.shipstore.com. I have tried by several e-mails and a couple phone attempts to find out when the part would arrive with no response. Well then I decided to do a Google search for reviews on this company. Woops, not good at all. 29 complaints and a "F" rating form the Better Business Bureau, three big thumbs down from "Yelp". 23 scathing reviews at "Pissed Consumer .com", including accusations of scam. And a host of complaints at Cruisers Forum .com.

So I have just run out of patience because I have missed some good sailing days, so I ordered another part from a local distributer. I have now tried to cancel my order, but if you read the ordering info on their site, it say's I can't cancel, although I have sent them another e-mail asking them to do so. Well they haven't charged my credit card yet and I am keeping a close eye on my account, because if any charge shows up I will dispute it because the part did not arrive when promised.

So a warning to all, Don't give these Mother F@#ker's the time of day!!


:headb:

You can check out the bad reviews here:

http://www.bbb.org/buffalo/business...pplies/shipstore-com-in-westport-ny-25000310/

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f124/dont-buy-at-shipstore-com-82755.html

http://www.pissedconsumer.com/reviews-by-company/shipstore.html

http://www.yelp.com/biz/shipstore-com-westport

 

[Alan Gomes]

Can you do a preemptive strike and notify your credit card company in advance to refuse the charge rather than letting it go through and having to dispute it after the fact? If you provide your credit card company a copy of the e-mails I'll bet they'd be happy to do that.

 

[Schoolboyheart]

Been there

Hey Jeff, I did the same thing on my ysm 8. I ended up buying the whole filter housing. As said in some of the other posts don't worry too much about banjos and such. Just throw some new copper on em (actually I've reused mine a couple times). Those bleed screws are really the weakest link in the engine which is funny considering you probably use them the most.

 

[Jeff Asbury]

Can you do a preemptive strike and notify your credit card company in advance to refuse the charge rather than letting it go through and having to dispute it after the fact? If you provide your credit card company a copy of the e-mails I'll bet they'd be happy to do that.

Thanks Alan, I was thinking about that possibility. Since the part still has not arrived I will do that and take your wise advice. I will let you know how it works out.

 

[Jeff Asbury]

Hey Jeff, I did the same thing on my ysm 8. I ended up buying the whole filter housing. As said in some of the other posts don't worry too much about banjos and such. Just throw some new copper on em (actually I've reused mine a couple times). Those bleed screws are really the weakest link in the engine which is funny considering you probably use them the most.

Agreed, although I have had a few dock neighbors and other friends suggest I drill, tap and go to the next screw size up, I am just tired of monkeying with it.

 

[Jeff Asbury]

Can you do a preemptive strike and notify your credit card company in advance to refuse the charge rather than letting it go through and having to dispute it after the fact? If you provide your credit card company a copy of the e-mails I'll bet they'd be happy to do that.

Well I just called B Of A to see if they could do a preemptive watch on my account for a future charge from the ShipStore.com. Unfortunately they could not. They said I just have to watch my account closely for the charge and dispute it as soon as I see it and that I would not be charged if I did that.

 

[Alan Gomes]

Well I just called B Of A to see if they could do a preemptive watch on my account for a future charge from the ShipStore.com. Unfortunately they could not. They said I just have to watch my account closely for the charge and dispute it as soon as I see it and that I would not be charged if I did that.

Well, it was worth a try. But it sounds like there is no problem either way.

 

[clp]

I sorta lost track of this thread, as I seem to do with about everything. But torque wrench? Myself, no way. Have never, and doubt I will. I use them commonly on critical engine component parts, but a fuel line ain't it. I have seen few diesels that have run out of fuel that can't be cranked with a single 6" adjustable wrench. So that should give you some idea of how tight to make them. Like earlier said, yes I also reuse them commonly. It's simply a compression washer, so unless it has just been squeezed to death or something, that's why I say I scuff 'em on sandpaper. A nice flat sealing surface to start with, and I swear there can be no simpler mechanical 'project' on the entire engine. It's truly no harder than putting on a hose with a clamp. When you're bleeding down the system, a part of this generally involves loosening and retightening that same fitting a few times. You wouldn't change out the washer every time you did that, would you? Negative.

In my opinion, and I have dealt with these washers countless times, that if you hear any 'horror' stories about the inability to make these things seal, it's because the mechanic SERIOUSLY screwed the pooch by using a cracked, bent, or severely pitted washer. And look at it this way. If us damn dumb diesel mechanics can make 'em run, I KNOW the talent on this site can fix it..

 

[Glyn Judson]

Pesky copper washer.

All, This is slightly off the mark but the subject is still copper banjo fitting washers. A fellow E31 owner who shall remain nameless, wisely chose to re-power from the factory original Yanmar 2QM15 to the more modern and powerful Yanmar 3GM30F about six or seven years ago. His search led him to a local Yanmar mechanic who had one that he sold to my friend for $400.00 including the surge tank, harness and instrument panel with the understanding that there was something wrong with the engine timing such that it would not run smoothly at all regardless of what anyone had done to remedy the "problem". He tossed in the Kanzaki KM3P transmission for another $100.00. Being an experienced mechanic himself, he gladly paid for the whole package and toted it home. As I write this, I'm looking at a photo of it bolted down to blocks, sitting on his garage floor. The rocker cover is off in preparation of his setting the valve clearances. When he initially ran the engine it faltered for him too until just as he was ready to shut it off, he noticed something coppery and shiny near a valve spring that caught his eye. Further investigation resulted in his locating and removing a well battered little copper washer that had eluded detection as it merrily danced in and out from beneath a valve spring. He removed the errant washer and fired the engine back up again, it purred like a kitten and hasn't stopped doing so to this day. And there is my copper washer story. Happy Holidays to you all, your families and friends, Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey CA

 

[clp]

Now THERE'S a used washer I wouldn't use..

Cool tale. How often it seems, that the fifty cent failed component will stop a ten thousand dollar machine..

 

[Jeff Asbury]

I sorta lost track of this thread, as I seem to do with about everything. But torque wrench? Myself, no way. Have never, and doubt I will. I use them commonly on critical engine component parts, but a fuel line ain't it. I have seen few diesels that have run out of fuel that can't be cranked with a single 6" adjustable wrench. So that should give you some idea of how tight to make them. Like earlier said, yes I also reuse them commonly. It's simply a compression washer, so unless it has just been squeezed to death or something, that's why I say I scuff 'em on sandpaper. A nice flat sealing surface to start with, and I swear there can be no simpler mechanical 'project' on the entire engine. It's truly no harder than putting on a hose with a clamp. When you're bleeding down the system, a part of this generally involves loosening and retightening that same fitting a few times. You wouldn't change out the washer every time you did that, would you? Negative.

In my opinion, and I have dealt with these washers countless times, that if you hear any 'horror' stories about the inability to make these things seal, it's because the mechanic SERIOUSLY screwed the pooch by using a cracked, bent, or severely pitted washer. And look at it this way. If us damn dumb diesel mechanics can make 'em run, I KNOW the talent on this site can fix it..

Thank you for the encouragement and the tips!! I got the part from Captain's Locker in Long Beach, CA last week. Not from that mystery nightmare company, "shipstore.com". Once again, do not give them the time of day, bad outfit. I plan on installing the part today, plan on sailing on Christmas day!

Happy Holidays to you to Glyn, and everyone else in the Forum! :xmas_grin

-Jeff

 

[lindaloo]

Don't throw the old part away ......

It may be worth trying a repair of your old part with a helicoil insert. They make smaller sizes (down to 1/4 - 20 and M5 at least). If you run the helicoil in with fuel-rated loctite or similar, it should give you an excellent repair. Hopefully. Worth a try.

It would have to be drilled and tapped square. Best done on a drill press. To get even pressure on the copper washer.

eBay has some kits for sale. Or a friendly machine shop could do it.

You could fill it with fuel and leave it upside down to test it for leaks.


Enjoy your Christmas sail !


Rob