Replacing bow chainplate and stuff

[mjsouleman]

This Spring Project for Discovery (1983 E-30+) is to a continuation of a Rub Rail replacement project. The bow and stern chainplates are of unknown age and the bow chainplate is definitely cracked. With the rub rail project completed, I removed the anchor locker to gain access to the bow chainplate in preparation of removal. Once the anchor locker was removed I found wet and delaminated wood separating the anchor locker space and the forward berth. Other surprises included wet backing plates on the forward stanchions. And then there was Loren Beaches recent suggestion to add backing plates to the forward cleats.

To this end I am purchasing the following materials for the project for community interest.

Divinycell H80 Grid Scored

https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/product/product-detail/1586

COM-212248 -- 1/4 inch
Price: $77.88
Or
COM-84842 -- 3/8 inch
Price: $93.00

G10 BackingPlates

https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/product/product-detail/8758

COM-G10-1/4-3x6-6 -- Backing Plate 1/4 inch x 3 inch x 6 inch - 6 Pack
Price: $54.99 Limited Stock

Sikaflex 291b

https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/product/product-detail/3512

Price: $14.99 10 oz cartridge
or
Totalseal

https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/product/product-detail/97774

Price: $15.99 10 oz cartride


Mark "Souleman" Soule

 

[Loren Beach]

Mark, the hardest part of that project, for me anyway, was accessing the underside of the deck to install the backing plates!
I still recall sweating a lot when working up under there. One note: use an LED trouble light. In olden times, I was using a light with an incandescent bulb... wow, that heated up the area!

Depending on the deck coring dry-ness, be sure to over-drill, epoxy fill, and redrill for all deck bolts.

Link: https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/ubs/new-deck-mooring-cleats.525/

 

[mjsouleman]

Thanks Loren

I will be cut ting out the underside of the stanchions and using Divinycell H80 Grid Scored to replace the wet core. As for boat yoga, I do my best work upside down.

 

[Mr. Scarlett]

I still recall sweating a lot

You spelled swearing wrong....

 

[mjsouleman]

For those of us with 1980's E-30's, the anchor locker is the main culprit for wet v-berths (see Anchor_locker_1 image below).
You will notice how the back end of the anchor locker extends over the v-berth.

Request: I would like to hear solutions or suggestions that can be implemented while the anchor locker is open.

Note: I also included images of the copper anchor drain Image 2, and anchor locker with 4 inch access holes.

 

[bigd14]

Mark, I highly recommend glassing in the anchor well. Its a fairly easy project and you eliminate all leaks into the boat AND increase storage for the chain and rode. Do you use the forward water tank? The hose running from the bow fitting would be the only challenge. In my case there was no forward water tank so I removed that hose.

Anchor well leak

We have located a leak in our anchor well and are in the planning stage of the repair. The bottom corner of the anchor well has worn through to the point where we can see light through a pinhole. Our approach will be to remove the anchor well, inspect it and then build up the corner and any...

ericsonyachts.org

 

[mjsouleman]

BigD14,

That is a good solution that I might modify by glassing over the v-berth area only.

Discovery does have a forward water tank and I have been planning a future project to convert it to a fresh water reservoir for the toilet.

Mark