Reliable Bilge Pump Switch?

Jim Mobley

Member II
Just went to the boat last night and found the bilge pump had been running continuously due to a faulty float switch. Didn't have time to fix it, so I just left it off.

So here's the question, who makes a reliable bilge pump switch? The bilge is relatively clean, the pump--a Rule 1500--runs smoothly and pulls a normal amount of current and the wiring is of sufficient size. And the pump only runs 2-3 times a week. In spite of that, this will be the fourth switch since I bought the boat a year ago!

Switch one was a Rule-A-Matic mercury switch that was on the boat when we bought it, it was either working intermittently or failed the first weekend we had the boat. Okay, 30 year old boat, stuff wears out.

Replaced with switch two, another Rule-A-Matic mercury (or West's OEM version of the same thing, I forget). This one lasted about 10 months. Mutter, mutter, must have got a lemon ...

Replaced with switch three, fed up with mercury switches, put in WM rolling ball switch. That was three months ago. Ball still rolls around, I can hear it. And the ball's position is correct with the switch at rest. Pump runs regardless of float switch position.

I really can't imagine a failure mode that would cause the switch to remain closed. All of the previous switches failed open.

I still need to do some trouble shooting, I suppose there's a possibility the Auto-Off-Manual switch is somehow energizing both the switched and un-switched conductors. But, if anyone has found a reliable bilge pump switch, let me know.
 

CaptnNero

Accelerant
Try this

Usually the bilge pump switch is on the ground side of the pump wiring. That means that if the pump finds another ground between the pump and the switch, presto, the pump will run.

To test this, disconnect the float switch and turn the pump breaker on. Of course if the pump still runs it's not the float switch. When this happened to me once, the problem was actually in the pump. In fact the pump died shortly after that while I was testing it. In that case the boat had taken a lightning strike so weird things were happening afterwards.

As for your original question about a reliable switch, I don't have help for you on that since I've been using Rule too.
 
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rwthomas1

Sustaining Partner
I've got the standard Rule-A-Matic on the bilge pump that came with the boat and so far so good. I installed one of those all electronic "electric field" no moving parts type of switches in the shower bilge well for the new shower pump I installed. I really like it. No moving parts, etc. so it should last longer? Hope this helps, RT
 

Guy Stevens

Moderator
Moderator
Ultra Safety System

Makes a great series of bilge pump switch based on industry standard switches that just keep working and working and working.

http://www.tefgel.com

I am currently playing with a couple of designs to make one that has no moving parts, with a little bit of soldering and a board with some epoxy. When I get a design that I like I will post it here.... until then, ULTRA PUMPSWITCH JR. I have two of them on my boat, and recommend them exclusively to my customers.

Guy
:)
 

CaptnNero

Accelerant
transparency

What a concept: a float switch that you can actually see inside.

Unfortunately I couldn't find any specs on their pump capacities although they appear to be high amperage units so they should be fairly fast.

They are sophisticated too with an alarm when it can't pump as fast as the water is coming in to the bilge.

Guy Stevens said:
Makes a great series of bilge pump switch based on industry standard switches that just keep working and working and working.

http://www.tefgel.com

I am currently playing with a couple of designs to make one that has no moving parts, with a little bit of soldering and a board with some epoxy. When I get a design that I like I will post it here.... until then, ULTRA PUMPSWITCH JR. I have two of them on my boat, and recommend them exclusively to my customers.

Guy
:)
 

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Jim Mobley

Member II
Thanks to all

Thanks to all of you for the suggestions. We were traveling in England the last three weeks and as soon as I got there my Wi-Fi card failed. :esad:

After three weeks time, with the pump off, we only had about two quarts of water in the bilge, so at least the boat's not going to sink with the normal inflow.

Thanks for the suggestion Guy, I'm going to order one of the USS pump switches.
 

mmackof

Member II
Modern Alternative?

Makes a great series of bilge pump switch based on industry standard switches that just keep working and working and working.

http://www.tefgel.com

I am currently playing with a couple of designs to make one that has no moving parts, with a little bit of soldering and a board with some epoxy. When I get a design that I like I will post it here.... until then, ULTRA PUMPSWITCH JR. I have two of them on my boat, and recommend them exclusively to my customers.

Guy
:)


Guy,
I'm looking at the Johnson 750 and 1000 gmh with
their Ultimate Switch.
Two pumps for redundancy. One at the bottom of the bilge and one 10" higher.

The switch is:
  • Totally sealed
  • No moving parts
  • Not affected by oils or debris
  • Completely corrosion proof
  • "Mirus" field effect technology
  • Activates at 2" fluid level
  • De-activates at 3/4" fluid level
  • No mercury
  • No false starts
  • 20 Amp maximum
  • 12/24 volt
  • Ignition protected
  • Meets and exceeds NMMA, ABYC, .SCG, ISO 8846

Any thoughts.

Mort:egrin:
 

Joliba

1988 E38-200 Contributing Member
Johnson Ultimate Switch

We bought one and it lasted less than a season. We got a new one on the three year warranty. I think it is still working, but we haven't tested it yet. (The boat was just launched for our short Lake Michigan season.) When we returned it, we heard from a salesman at West Marine that they discontinued carrying it because of a large number of failures for no apparent reason. It's a great device when it works, but that's not enough to inspire confidence in something as critical as an automatic bilge pump switch.
Mike Jacker
 
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