Rebuild Portlights

[Ralph Hewitt]

These things must have been put on with 5200? Will Not move!
After outside ring there seems yo be a small seam with old chalk?
Will dig out and fill stop drip leaks?

 

[bigd14]

You can remove them even with 5200. Use this stuff.

Marine Formula - DeBond Corporation | Fisheries Supply

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[Nick J]

Even with the debond, it's important to go slow. It only works on adhesive it comes in contact with (obviously, but it's important to keep in mind). Start at one corner prying it up slightly and spraying the debond directly in the pryed up area. Let it work for a bit then continue prying and spraying little by little until it comes loose. I had to do this on some deck hardware on my 25+. It was tedious, but it worked without damaging the fiberglass or hardware.

 

[reginaldobaker]

Just commenting to vouch for fisheries supply - they’re my go-to but am lucky to be able to visit their brick and mortar. Wouldn’t hesitate to order from them online but have never done it.

it seems like Ralph is in Central America though? If getting/shipping solvents down there is not possible a heat gun may also work.

 

[Loren Beach]

A heat gun will indeed soften old 5200. Surprisingly helpful, it can be

 

[peaman]

Along with solvent and heat, time and pressure can also work in your favor. Once the "lens" is removed, clamps can be rigged with random lumber bits to press the frame from the inside, versus the hull from the outside. On a unit similar to the photo, I recently used some 2x2 pieces and a couple of "Quick-Grip" clamps with moderate pressure, and let time and pressure work for me. Once I saw daylight through the frame-hull joint, it was just a matter of minutes before they were separated, after a day or two of steady pressure with the clamps. I didn't use either heat or solvent, but either would likely have accelerated progress.