New Teak Floor

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tcooper

Member II
I'm installing new teak floor, in my 36RH. Teak is 3.5" x 3/4" tongue and groove, top side is finished and bottom and ends I've sealed with hardwood sealer. Seems like most of the older boats floor is screwed down with brass not stainless.

Does anyone know if I should use brass screws or is SS preferred and I'm not sure if one screw in center of each board is sufficient or if I should use two per board at each stringer?

Tom
 
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spencer

Member II
What are you installing the new teak floor over? Are you going over the existing floor, are you screwing the new floor directly to the fiberglass structural grid system or did you put a new sub-floor in before installing the new teak floor?
I replaced the floor ;in my 38 about 6 or 7 years ago. The original teak and holly floor was marine plywood screwed directly to the grid system with stainless steel screws. Thank god it was not glued to the grid because it came up very easy. After taking it up I put a new 3/4 in. marine plywood sub floor down encased in fiberglass, screwed again with s.s. screws directly to the grid. Then, I put a commercial cherry t & g floor down with glue only. After the 6 or 7 years it still looks like new.
The thing I woluld worrry about with real teak if I was to think about glueing it would be the oil in the teak not being compatible with the glue. Other than that I woul d worry about cupping of the teak in the wet environment. Normally in a commercial system without glue one nail is used in the tongue. To be safe and make sure the teak does no cup I would go with two screws countter sunk then finished with a teak bung. That is a lot of work. one of the reasons I glued my floor was to eliminate all the work of finishing the screw holes. Let me know how it iis going.
 
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tcooper

Member II
My plan was no subfloor and screw directly to the stringers. the stringers are close enough there would be little deflection with 3/4" teak. I was thinking counter sink one ss screw per board per stringer, but i don't want the wood to cup over time half the screws sounds intriguing but I want to hold up......... Glue to fiberglass doesn't allow for taking floor up for any reason a option.

Tom
 
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spencer

Member II
the square drive sounds like a great idea. where did you find 3/4 in. thick teak? Wow sounds expensive. How are you going to finish it? What ever you do it will be a grreat looking floor.
 
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Tom Plummer

Member III
Spencer,

I (Tom P.) used the Silicon Bronze fasteners to reinstall my existing Teak & Holly plywood deck which I had taken up in hopes of being able to replace the underfloor water tank. Tom C. is the one with the 3/4" Teak.
 
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tcooper

Member II
I purchased some Bellawood pre finished teak, by the time I'm done I'll have about 500.00 into it and it's already finished.

Thanks for web site, square drive sounds great.

Tom
 
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