peaman
Sustaining Member
I recently replaced my original 6 gallon Atkins hot water heater with a new 5.3 gallon Isotemp Spa unit. So these last two seasons, we have avoided using any hot water because it was always foul, even though I had done everything I could to make it useable. The heater itself was inconveniently placed, and the steel casing had a fair amount of rust, so I ditched it. Sources suggested that foul smells could come from tank anodes, but after disassembly of the entire unit (necessary for removal from the boat), there were no signs of any anode.
Like others who have done the job, I had to make some modest cuts in the fiberglass at the cockpit hatch. It was only about 3/8" at inboard and outboard edges, so no big deal. That small adjustment permitted removal of the bare tank of the old heater, and also for the from-the-factory assembly of the new heater.
I placed the new heater at a diagonal angle in the boat to optimize space and access. The area of the rudder post, and also the area starboard of the engine both have improved access with the new heater arrangement.
I connected the heater with in- and out- isolation valves, and also a bypass valve, so the heater tank can be easily bypassed for winterization of the rest of the plumbing system, while the tank itself is drained for the winter. Existing Qest piping was found to be compatible with 3/8" PEX, which was used for new connections, using SharkBite Brass Push-to-Connect fittings.
The Isotemp heater is fitted with a specialized combination cold water inlet / drain valve, and also a specialized combination hot water outlet / temperature controlled mixing valve. Together, they provide for a user-selected maximum outlet temperature, which will reduce the potential for scalding, while improving the effective capacity of hot water storage. The stainless steel supports and tank, with the plastic exterior of the heater should ensure a long corrosion-free service life.
Like others who have done the job, I had to make some modest cuts in the fiberglass at the cockpit hatch. It was only about 3/8" at inboard and outboard edges, so no big deal. That small adjustment permitted removal of the bare tank of the old heater, and also for the from-the-factory assembly of the new heater.
I placed the new heater at a diagonal angle in the boat to optimize space and access. The area of the rudder post, and also the area starboard of the engine both have improved access with the new heater arrangement.
I connected the heater with in- and out- isolation valves, and also a bypass valve, so the heater tank can be easily bypassed for winterization of the rest of the plumbing system, while the tank itself is drained for the winter. Existing Qest piping was found to be compatible with 3/8" PEX, which was used for new connections, using SharkBite Brass Push-to-Connect fittings.
The Isotemp heater is fitted with a specialized combination cold water inlet / drain valve, and also a specialized combination hot water outlet / temperature controlled mixing valve. Together, they provide for a user-selected maximum outlet temperature, which will reduce the potential for scalding, while improving the effective capacity of hot water storage. The stainless steel supports and tank, with the plastic exterior of the heater should ensure a long corrosion-free service life.