Line Chocks

wheelerwbrian

Member III
A simple question, but I haven't done it before so... I want to install a couple of line chocks on the stern of my 88 E38. The dock line on one side consistently abrades off the finish on the teak stern, which then means in the spring I have to resand and refinsh that area -- eventually I'm going to have a depression there, not to mention the hassle. The question is, do I need to thrubolt it, or can I use screws?

Comments, opinions welcome.
 

Guy Stevens

Moderator
Moderator
If it is a Chock thrubolt

If it is a chock that is something that changes the lead of the line to the cleat, it must be through bolted. The loads even changing the line by a few degrees is substantial.

Guy
:)
 

ted_reshetiloff

Contributing Partner
Im definately with Guy on this one. Having seen these things ripped out and then the damage to the gel coated topsides from a loose chock with screws sticking out and dragging against topsides. There are other alteratives to thisproblem though.

I too have an E-38 '89 model and suffer the same problem on my sternlines. I am going to remove the wood piece entirely this winter to replace it. When I install the new one I am going to mount a plate of flat stainless steel that will extend from the outboard edge to the full width of the cleat's horns. I am going to use a router or planer lower the wood by the thickness of the stainless so it sits flush. Because my cleats are aluminum I will need to isolate the underside of the cleat from the stainless to avoid corrosion. I will post photos as it gets done. The wood around these cleats has really taken a beating over the years and is not worth trying to repair at this point. The plates we are going to make will also be bent to roll over the 1/2 thickness of the wood along the aft edges like a cap.
 

NateHanson

Sustaining Member
I'm with Guy too. We had a large chock tear out (taking a foot of teak toe-rail with it :() during a blow. It was attached with 3" screws.

Definitely thru-bolt, In my experience chock loads are rarely downward. They're nearly always changing the lead of the line by a few (and sometimes 45) degrees. Those forces require thru-bolting. If you don't want to do that, you can attach a stainless rub strake to the teak toe rail with screws. That will protect a length of rail where you are certain the line will usually be, but it won't keep the line from wandering to an unprotected part of the rail if the docking situation changes, or if your in a slip that's laid out differently than your own. It's easier to install though, and lower profile.
 

mmackof

Member II
Bow Chocks for E39

Thought the thread name was appropriate to allow me to ask if anyone can supply photos and dimensions (shoot photo with tape measure in picture) of the original bow chocks. I've inherited somebody's infantile design for a replacement that has been torn out.

Many thanks.

Mort
 

HughHarv

Hugh
I don't have a foto handy of my bow chocks but they look just like the ones in the fotos I have attached. Good luck.



Thought the thread name was appropriate to allow me to ask if anyone can supply photos and dimensions (shoot photo with tape measure in picture) of the original bow chocks. I've inherited somebody's infantile design for a replacement that has been torn out.

Many thanks.

Mort
 

Attachments

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  • ER39 TX Bow.jpg
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