Lewmar Super Hatch Repair

[Bolo]

 

[Loren Beach]

Thanks Bob! Great detailing and narrative.
One little question -- have you had luck (or needed luck) in restoring the stops on the Lewmar "Roll Stop" hinges?
Our '88 boat came with two of those vintage hatches and I tried and gave up on rebuilding the hinges. Since the frames were compromised when we bought the boat I replaced both the #70 forward and #20 vent hatches. The newer hinge design is an improvement over the 80's version, IMHO.

 

[Dave G.]

Great job Bob, may be I missed it but where did you get the new plexi ? Also need to change the title to "Lewmar" so I can find it when needed

 

[Christian Williams]

Nice work routering the plastic (the battery router would probably work if you make passes at different depths, rather than attacking all the plastic in one pass).

Another option is to take the existing plastic to a local plastics shop and let them make the cuts and the holes.

Good to know you can order a small piece of acrylic, since a full sheet is 4x8 and pushes $800.

 

[Bolo]

Thanks Bob! Great detailing and narrative.
One little question -- have you had luck (or needed luck) in restoring the stops on the Lewmar "Roll Stop" hinges?
Our '88 boat came with two of those vintage hatches and I tried and gave up on rebuilding the hinges. Since the frames were compromised when we bought the boat I replaced both the #70 forward and #20 vent hatches. The newer hinge design is an improvement over the 80's version, IMHO.

My best advice is to checkout this link at Hatchmasters: https://hatchmasters.com/product/lewmar-super-hatch-hinge-kit/
If I understand you correctly these are the “roll stop” hinges you’re looking for that fit the Super Hatch.

 

[Bolo]

Great job Bob, may be I missed it but where did you get the new plexi ? Also need to change the title to "Lewmar" so I can find it when needed

www.estreetplastics.com
I purchased a 24” Square, 1/2 thick smoked plexiglass piece for about $56.

 

[Bolo]

Nice work routering the plastic (the battery router would probably work if you make passes at different depths, rather than attacking all the plastic in one pass).

Another option is to take the existing plastic to a local plastics shop and let them make the cuts and the holes.

Good to know you can order a small piece of acrylic, since a full sheet is 4x8 and pushes $800.

I should have started with the plug in router first. Cutting through the plexi was no problem for it. I originally thought that using the battery router would be easier to handle just like it was when I cut the T&H 1/4 plywood for the cabin sole a few years ago. Taking it to a local plastics shop is a great idea but there are none in my area. Besides I do have a fair amount of experience with plexiglass. Very early in my working years I was a draftsman working for a sign company. They built the large high-rise highway signs that used plexiglass extensively and I had to draw a lot of those details. This gave me a first hand look at how plexiglass fabrication was done. All that and I come from a family whose motto was “fix it before you buy another one”. That I learned from my dear departed father who was a machinist.

 

[bsangs]

Great work Bob. Your temporary hatch covers were a lot more detailed than my blue tarp/bungee cord combo when I replaced the hatches. (In all fairness, "Radiance" was shrink wrapped when I replaced the hatches.)

 

[Bolo]

Great work Bob. Your temporary hatch covers were a lot more detailed than my blue tarp/bungee cord combo when I replaced the hatches. (In all fairness, "Radiance" was shrink wrapped when I replaced the hatches.)

Thanks. I did go the duct tape / plastic sheet route once many years ago and that was a disaster. The “hard” temporary hatch cover is sturdy and, if you store it away in your garage someplace, ready to go if you need it again. I even used the same basic idea when I had to rebuild one of the non-opening ports once.