Interior Brightwork question

[davelazar]

I just purchased a 1977 E25 Centerboard, #355, and want to work on sprucing up the interior. All the brightwork below seems to be varnished, (bulkheads, drawers, lockers, steps, etc.) They all seem to have original finishes on them, and are getting ugly looking.(not scratched or damaged, just a little dull)
In addition, some of the pieces see to have some black blotches on them. (mold?)

I wonder whether the original finish from 1977 would have been standard varnish, or polyurethane? I'm planning on removing all the parts that I can, and just doing a sanding and refinishing. I don't want to put poly over varnish, or vice versa.

If anyone has done this job, I would like to know which type of finish should be put over the original one? I don't want to take the finish down to raw wood. Thank you. I'm looking forward to getting my Ericson on the water soon!

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[Frank Langer]

The previous owner of our boat told me that Captain's Satin Varnish was used on the interior of 1980s boats, and he used that in a few places to keep it looking good--I can't tell where it was redone, so it seems to be a good match for our boat.
Hope that helps.
Frank.

 

[NateHanson]

When recoating any old finish, you'll want to clean and scuff sand the surface first. After that it doesn't matter if you cover poly with a traditional varnish or vice versa. You can't put shellac over poly, but I've not yet run into a situation where I was tempted to do that.

I'd say find a varnish you like, and go for it.

Make sure you address any deck leaks first, allow any damp areas to thoroughly dry, and make sure the black stains on the wood do not conceal rot below. If the substrate is rotted it won't dry out and finish doesn't last long on moist wood.

 

[treilley]

Nate, what about water vs oil based finishes. Are there any rules to applying one over the other?

 

[NateHanson]

To tell the truth, I haven't experimented with any water-based finishes. (Partly because I use water-based dyes, so can't top-coat them with water-finish. Partly, I guess because I'm lazy. )

My estimation is that you're fine as long as you scuff-sand the surface (just as you need to do to coat oil-based paint with latex). I'm not really confident in that answer though. Best to call one of the manufacturers and discuss it with a tech there.

 

[Frank Langer]

Although I'm not an authority on paint, I have used both oil and water based paint and varnishes successfully, and really can't tell the difference between them when they are dry/cured.

I have put a water based varnish/polyurethane type of finish over an oil based varnish in our house, but only after sanding the existing finish fairly aggressively to give the new coat a good "tooth" to attach to. That has worked well for me.

I suspect the purists would suggest that you stay with either oil or water based, unless you sand to bare wood again.

Frank.

 

[rgraham]

I had to strip mine..

My interior was tacky to the touch so I had strip all of the vanish with a water based stripper. I have then gone back with a mix of 50/50 thinner and varnish applied with a rag. From what I have read I should be able to finish by appling varnish with either a brush or use the rubbed in effect. I don't know myself but the first application (50/50 mix) looks good.

 

[John Bouchard]

Interior Finishing

I refinished much of the interior of our E32 - most of it after removing the cabinetry as I replaced three of the four bulkheads. So I had the "luxury" of doing most of the work in my basement.

I had a few "dark/blackish" spots - I believe it was the beginnings of wet rot from dampness/leaks over time damage. Once all the varnish was removed, I bleached it - it sort of helped, but not perfect.

One tip, that I read in Good Old Boat or maybe Practical Sailor - was to first use a heat gun and a tuned (read new, or sharpened) scraper. Even if there is only one layer of poly/varnish - this method works really well, and saves a lot of time. Careful, though, you can easily scorch/burn the wood. Also, if you try and sand it off - you're never sure if you got it all off, and you run the risk of sanding right through any veneers. FWIW!

I used this method on the companionway sliding hatch, and it came out very nice, IMO.

As far as varnish or poly, what type, make, etc. - my new mahogany veneered bulkheads necessitated a bit of "stain" - which I mixed from different colors to try and match the overall color in the cabin. Fairly good luck with this, and afterwards I used Interlux Goldspar Satin varnish. It came out pretty good, IMO.

On the exterior I have used a variety of finishes - usually purchased on sale, on clearance, etc. (I hate paying full price!). A couple that I remember are West Marine Wood Pro, and Epifanes' Clear Glossy.

FWIW! John B.

 

[chaco]

Love that Polyurethane

The original 1974 E35II interior is definately a Gloss Finish. My guess is
polyurethane. I am using Oil Base Verathane Exterior Gloss for all my interior
rework. Just Clean with Denatured Alcohol - Scuff with #220 SandPaper-
Vacuum dust off the surface - Clean again with Alcohol and Dry cloth -
Apply (1) coat for existing touchup and (2-3) coats on new wood.
Polyurethane is easy to work with and blends perfectly with existing finish.
This stuff is tough and lasts a long time even on your sole as a floor finish.
I use the Exterior for a honey finish and UV protection :nerd:
Do test in an obscure place. I tried the Satin....no go. Looked like a sanded
finish next to the Gloss

Happy Cabin

 

[John Bouchard]

My preference is for the Satin, as it creates a warmer feel in the cabin, especially in the dark - the lights don't reflect as brightly/sharply, and the woodwork looks more like furniture. I have a friend who also has an E32, and he likes the gloss. Just personal preference!

John B.

 

[Lucky Dog]

Poly vs Varnish

For my 2 cents I teach technology Education and still offer cabinet making. Varnish traditionally has a yellowing agent to help protect form the effects of UV light. The peeling finish on our E35-2 inside and out has a brittle yellow hue to it. I check on line on when polyurethane finishes where produced. Only quick reference was that it was developed in research labs in the late 60's. I would suspect that Ericson used oil based varnishes. Oil base flows better.
My students (who I may proudly add say regularly place in the top five at the state fair) use poly- furniture being out of the direct light and ALWAYS are told to empty the can first in to a clean container. The drying agents settle to the bottom and no matter of hand shaking will remix them. Five coat minimum with disposable foam brushes (let them dry, throw them out).
I don't recommend poly over varnish or oil over water.
Sticky finishes usually comers from oily wood sweeping through the finish, different manufacture product negativity interacting. Oil base finished don't like drying in wet or cold weather. You time cost most than cheap finish.
Have a great finish is 70 percent of a great project.

 

[treilley]

I knew I did not want gloss. I tested both the satin and SG and I thought the satin just did not do the teak justice. The SG on the other hand is beautiful. Presently reinstalling teak trim. Lots of screws.

 

[jkm]

My interior is like Dan's, gloss.

Seems like all the early and mid 70 Ericson's I've been in were gloss finishes and no doubt oil based.

Must be the company had to use up their stock before they went to a satin finish.

John