Installing an alternator bracket kit

[Frank G]

Last week I took my alternator in to the alternator shop as it was only putting out about 12.1 volts. It needed a new regulator. It was serviced and some kind of waterproofing put inside. 80 bucks.
I was unable to tighted down the alternator bracket tensioning bolt. I discovered that it goes to the exhaust manifold in a tapped in thread. I guesse the cast iron just corroded off, or maybe the bolt itself was seized and then sheared off. Great, another simple job turned to doo doo.
so searching the torrensen/marine diesel direct site I discovered that they make a retrofit alternator bracket kit. I then discovered on our archives that others have had to do this repair.
So if anybody has any further words of wisdon on this project please send them to me.
I put two electric heaters on board as last saturday night it dropped to the low 20's in Knoxville, Good thing I was in the Florida keys on Saturday night watching the sunset and sipping cool beverages.
Frank

 

[dcoyle]

i have a 1982 M25 installed on my 82 E33 and installed the alt bracket upgrade this past spring. I ended up pulling the exhaust manifold off in order to remove original studs from engine block. Turns out original studs were too short to accept new mounting bracket. Once ex man was off rest off upgrade was easy. The original bracket was modified on my style engine because the mount could crack and allow engine oil to leak out. If you look at the Catalina website there is a great post there with pictures and testimonials about failures and blown engines etc. The mount failed on my boat with po, and the new bracket came with purchase. The change took me about 12 hours since the manifold removal/installation took time. I was able to sand and paint a good part of engine while it was off. good luck doug

 

[Rocinante33]

Frank,

It would help us if you told us what engine you have(maybe which boat, too). It does sound like you are talking about the Universal M25. If so, Doug's advice to do the alternator bracket upgrade is right on. There is a prior thread here about it.

 

[newpbs]

Heilicoil

Frank,

Regardless of which engine you have you might be able to repair the stripped thread with a heilicoil (sp?). I needed to repair a tapped hole on an Atomic 4 once. You purchase a kit from a auto store. The kit includes a drill bit, coils, a tap and a tool to insert the coils. The existing hole is drilled out and a new thread it tapped on place. Into this new thread is installed a "coil" that will receive the original bolt. I would avoid going to another bracket unless there were other advantages to be had. These repairs are quite common. Hope this helps, hope I understood your problem.

Paul

 

[Frank G]

I have the Universal M-25 engine. I purchased the bracket kit from Torrenson. 165 bucks, yikes. I saw way too many admonitions to install this on the catalina websites, including cracked mounts, cracked original brackets and the resulting fan belt damaging the oil filter, and loss of oil, etc.
No instructions came with the kit.
I wonder if I need to put some kind of thread sealaer on the new studs when I screw them in.
I have been really busy at work as this is the busiest time of year as people try to get th eir surgeries in by the end of the year so as not to pay a new deductible. thus, the project has been on hold for a while.
Thanks for all your help
Frank

 

[dcoyle]

I was advised to use blue lock tite on stud threads. I coated unthreaded sections of studs with never seize in effort to stop studs rusting to exhaust manifold. My kit came with a mechanical drawing of change. If you need any help let me know-- I can take digital pictures id needed.

 

[Frank G]

thanks dcoyle,
blue locktite it is. I never thought of puttint never seize on th e unthreaded part.
when I was having my 32 moved from florida to Tennessee the riggers advised me not to use never seize on stainless fasteners going into aluminum as the zinc in the never seize sets up a galvanic action. I wonder if this would apply to the studs. I seem to remember seeing that the exhaust manifold is aluminum. I'm not sure if that is right though. since you have to drain the manifold, I wonder if the anti freeze and corrosion inhibitor within it would protect the studs too? Just a thought.
In any event, thanks for your help and I'll let you know if I h ave any other dumb questions.

 

[dcoyle]

What I found removing my exhaust manifold was the studs were slightly rusted to it. I couldnt get studs to turn out of engine block while EM was still mounted. After removing it, the studs easily turned out of block. The service manager at the yard I use, who has been around a while, to.ld me to use blue lock tite on block side of studs. The studs pass thru a sleeve in the EM so the anti freeze never comes in contact with them. I put the never seize on studs where they pass thru sleeve- hopefully will help with removal next time it comes off-- most likely not while I own it. Project wasnt as bad as I thought it would be.

 

[Frank G]

Yesterday I was able to remove the exhaust manifold studs without a problem. I clamped vise grip pliers to the old studs and out they came. I used blue locktite on the new studs, but didn't use never seize on the rest of the studs. Basically I forgot to bring my can with me.
I discovered that the water hose which comes out of the engine water pump and goes under the old alternator bracket had a worn spot where it rubbed the old bracket and even a wire was exposed. Another potential disaster.
While I have the engine water drained I think I'll remove and replace the thermostat. We have a Kubota tractor dealer in Knoxville, so I'll try to get one there. While I'm there I'll pick up a couple of oil filters and fuel filters too.
Thanks for all of your help
Oh, and by the way, the alternator belt tensioner that someone suggested is no longer available from JC Whitney.
Frank

 

[dcoyle]

Glad to hear the studs came out so easily. Mine would not turn out at all, as they were somewhat rusted to EM.