How to tell if it is a Tall or standard rigged E27? (Again)

[Jeff Thornton]

Is their and easy way of identifying a Tall from a Standard rigged E27?

Looking at an E27 and the mast is stepped. Although I did notice that the step was not hinged to the deck. Saw other post discussing 2 vrs. 3 shrouds with no definitive answer.

Does anyone have access to a database that may allow for a vessel ID look up?

Jeff

 

[Randy Rutledge]

Looks like you will have to measure the main Luff length or forestay. http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=680 list the following
Ericson 27
standard as
I: 32.50' / 9.91m J: 11.25' / 3.43m
P: 28.00' / 8.53m E: 10.00' / 3.05m


Tall rig
I: 34.50' / 10.52m J: 11.25' / 3.43m
P: 30.00' / 9.14m E: 10.00' / 3.05m

Might be more exact to measure the I or forestay since the main does not go to the masthead and can be a less accurate measurement for your purpose or attach the tape to the main head and raise it and measure the luff of the main.

 

[Mark F]

Hi Jeff,

I think the 2 v 3 shroud thread was for a boat that had been modified. As far as I know all of the E27's came from the factory with 3 shrouds per side. Are you looking for one or the other (tall - standard)?

 

[Jeff Thornton]

I am looking at another boat and only have been provided pictures. I am trying to do my research before I travel to do an inspection on it. Does need new sails, the old have been discarded for some reason?

Jeff

 

[Randy Rutledge]

Jeff,

Tall or standard will not make a great difference in the cost of sails. Just measure the boat when you look at it. Maybe someone here has experience with both rigs on the E27 and can comment. Being a Bruce King design I am sure both sail very well. The E27 is very similar in design to the E29 which I like well enough to own two, one for the lake and one for the coast.

 

[Loren Beach]

I am looking at another boat and only have been provided pictures. I am trying to do my research before I travel to do an inspection on it. Does need new sails, the old have been discarded for some reason?

Jeff

In general, the % chance of finding any boat over 10 or 15 years old with good quality well-cut sails is quite (!) low.

Second, if the sails on any offered boat seem to be in decent condition, they may or may not be sized and designed best for your sailing conditions and may not have been well-suited to the boat in question even when new.

Prior owners may have have put on head sails with too much overlap, either by buying with poor information from an indifferent new sail vendor or purchased used with too little thought given to sizing.

So, buying a boat without sails is not so bad -- lower price going in and a real chance to start enjoying sailing with new sails.

One good idea when shopping for any "good old boat" is to just be preemptive get a quote from a decent "value" vendor like Lee Sails, and also a quote on a dacron set from one of the majors like UKSails. No matter whether your proposed purchase has sails or not, this type of information will be useful as you budget for your first several years of ownership and use.

Sidebar: it's always been difficult to really assess sails on any used boat. Aux engines are lots easier, what with actually measuring compression and easily observing the exhaust... and easily inspecting the prop and drive train (sussing our electrolysis in a prop by finding bright and soft copper on a blade edge with a scrape with your knife is low tech and instantly revealing... !)

If and when you get closer to buying post up some photos of stuff that is puzzling or not-as-obvious as it should be.

All the best,
Loren

ps: the US$ is gaining value this week, advice now re-priced at one cent...

 

[Ccaptain]

Purchase power

It is a scary thought to think what our currency is worth, especially since the Fed is printing more money per year than the 1980 bail out which most people objected to being done. That's why I spend it as fast as I get it.

 

[Loren Beach]

$ value and thread wandering...

It is a scary thought to think what our currency is worth, especially since the Fed is printing more money per year than the 1980 bail out which most people objected to being done. That's why I spend it as fast as I get it.

It always depends on what and whether you are buying -- or selling.
A quick on-line check today shows that the CN $ is now $.86 US$.

Back in 1983 we bought our prior boat in BC Canada (Victoria) when their dollar was US$.82. So we were able to afford a Hinterhoeller-built Niagara 26. Of course we still had to get it home to PDX, and that's another story. Cruised and raced that high-quality boat for ten delightful years.

Actually, the US$ against other currencies has had greater swings several times. I recall the spring of '86 when we bought a new (built in Japan) Honda Accord. By the fall of that year our car had turned into a bargain when the Yen changed a Lot and the price on our model jumped by about a thousand $. Gotta say, that was one of the Very Best Quality vehicles we have ever owned, ever. Probably some luck involved - maybe built on a Wednesday!


Where were we? Oh Yeah. Boats and sails!

Loren

 

[Jeff Thornton]

Actually I was looking to move my current e27 sails to the new acquisition and purchase new sails for my current boat.

But it all needs to be considered when negotiating a prices. Trying to find a marine transport that has adjusted their price to reflect the more current fuel prices would help. Might have to take a chance and try "U Ship". Looks like once again, the boat purchase price may be the cheapest part of this boat project.

Jeff

 

[Christian Williams]

Although I've never shipped a boat, I've considered it--and found the warnings in this Boat US article quite useful"

http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?11885-Shipping-Your-Yacht

 

[Randy Rutledge]

As the owner of two E29s I hate to ask why you are looking at another E27 but why? I am not trying to be the voice of reason just curious. You are right the purchase price of a boat is only the start of the cost.

 

[Jeff Thornton]

For one, I have two homes on two different of the Great Lakes. But was thinking more of circumnavigating a few of the Great Lakes by taking a long weekend, every other weekend and work my way around a lake over the course of a season. Drive to the boat and sail for a while, have the car spotted and drive home only to continue the journey a week later.

 

[Randy Rutledge]

I knew there was a good reason!!!! As for me I just wanted a boat for the coast and didn't want to give up my E29 for the lake though I sail and race a Mirage 236 on the lake so the E29 is for evening cruises and a semi live aboard.

 

[Jeff Thornton]

So, still looking to see if their is any builders information available? Seems like there would be builders documentation of some sort?

Jeff

 

[Seth]

Tall vs Std

Not 100% sure, but I do not think the hull ID will be conclusive. The best way is the hoist a tape up the jib halyard and measure from full hoist to the deck just by the chainplates. While not exact, this will be very close to the"I" measurement. If you get 33' or more, it is the Tall rig. If you do not have a long tape or don't want to mess with halyards, you can just measure the boom to confirm the 'E" measurement. The E on the Tall rig is 10' while it is 11' on the std (tall rig was higher aspect). Measure from the back side of the mast right by the gooseneck along the top of the boom. If it is more than 10' to the outhaul block (or end of the boom) you have the std rig. Many boats have a black band around the boom at the aft end, the forward edge of which indicates the "E" distance from the aft face of the mast. NOTE- the correct measurement of E on a boom is NOT the length of the boom or the distance from the back of the mast to the end of the boom, and many booms are much longer than the "E" would suggest. The method I am suggesting is crude, but will indicate which rig you have..

Happy New Year!

S