Handrail varnish

dhill

Member III
Hi,

I am new to varnishing and have some lighter spots on my outside handrails that I would like to address. I don't see any cracking happening, so I was wondering whether I need to remove the existing varnish completely just at the lighter area or do I need to strip the varnish for the entire handrail and start from scratch.

handrail varnish.jpg

Any advice would be great!

Thanks!
Dave
 

Pete the Cat

Sustaining Member
It depends on how much you want to do now and how much you want to do later. Also, if you cover your boat or if it is in the sun. If you want it to last in the sun you need to take it down to wood with hand sanding (this is the way Hinckley does it) and lay down a couple diluted 50/50 varnish coats to soak into the wood. Otherwise moisture will soon turn things black or dark from the inside out over time. If you want it to last and if it is in the sun, you would put down 5 or 6 coats and sand very lightly between coats. Tape off the wood so you do not get it on the rest of the boat--varnish is a bitch to remove when it dries. Then you have a base that will last a few years. You can quickly do a coat in the Spring each year after that and it should keep up for several years. You are going to get a lot of different views on this. Most folks are looking for a short cut or magic product. I find the real stuff is not that difficult to use if you are willing to learn. And not much more work than the magic stuff in my experience. The charter boats in the Caribbean swear by Epifanes products because they have very good UV filters though the stuff is expensive.

Varnishing is an art, but once you get it down and get the materials together with a little experience, it does not take long to do and it looks great. You need good quality sandpaper finishing with 220 or 320 on a foam block, tack cloths, a good bristle brush or quality foam brush. You need to vacuum and get the dust out with quality tack cloths before you put the varnish on if you want it to look nice. Or you can just slap some varnish or stuff that looks like varnish if you are not too fussy. There is a lot of latitude depending on your willingness to accept the outcome. Most boats I see are poorly done, but if the folks like them, who cares?
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
I agree with both opinions above, but in your car worth a relatively small area, I would Sand that area until you get to good varnish or to the wood. Then add coats of varnish to that area until its level with the surrounding varnish. Then lightly sand the whole handrail with 20 grit, clean with tack cloth or lightly with acetone, then add a last coat of varnish to the whole handrail. If still not happy with it, another coat may be needed.
I do a light sand and varnish twice a year to keep it looking good (takes about a half hour), and strip to bare wood about every five years, then add 3 to 4 coats, and again twice per year. I've had lots of compliments on my varnish.
Frank
 

dhill

Member III
It depends on how much you want to do now and how much you want to do later. Also, if you cover your boat or if it is in the sun. If you want it to last in the sun you need to take it down to wood with hand sanding (this is the way Hinckley does it) and lay down a couple diluted 50/50 varnish coats to soak into the wood. Otherwise moisture will soon turn things black or dark from the inside out over time. If you want it to last and if it is in the sun, you would put down 5 or 6 coats and sand very lightly between coats. Tape off the wood so you do not get it on the rest of the boat--varnish is a bitch to remove when it dries. Then you have a base that will last a few years. You can quickly do a coat in the Spring each year after that and it should keep up for several years. You are going to get a lot of different views on this. Most folks are looking for a short cut or magic product. I find the real stuff is not that difficult to use if you are willing to learn. And not much more work than the magic stuff in my experience. The charter boats in the Caribbean swear by Epifanes products because they have very good UV filters though the stuff is expensive.

Varnishing is an art, but once you get it down and get the materials together with a little experience, it does not take long to do and it looks great. You need good quality sandpaper finishing with 220 or 320 on a foam block, tack cloths, a good bristle brush or quality foam brush. You need to vacuum and get the dust out with quality tack cloths before you put the varnish on if you want it to look nice. Or you can just slap some varnish or stuff that looks like varnish if you are not too fussy. There is a lot of latitude depending on your willingness to accept the outcome. Most boats I see are poorly done, but if the folks like them, who cares?
Thanks @Pete the Cat . We visited Castine by water last year. Beautiful town! It was the highlight of our Penobscot cruise!
 
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Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
If you have 10 coats on there and sand the yellow part down to wood, it will leave a big dent in the surface requiring about 10 coats to fill.

I just varnish over, figuring to put off the eventual total stripping and bleaching and so on. Just depends on how it looks. Usually the new coat repairs the membrane temporarily, if the voids aren't too bad.

But there's no right way, so we all try everything.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Varnish question....
I have been considering the touted benefits of a newer product: https://www.totalboat.com/product/lust/
A friend that does refinishing for boats sez it actually will allow multiple coats in a day.
Absent getting some bugs or dirt on the fresh surface, and having to wait and sand it out, this is a real attractive idea.
Any of you tried this product yet??

Edit: perhaps best to also emphasize that I do like the brand I have used for 25 years, Pettit Captains 1015 gloss. But I can only do one coat a day, and would like to speed up this process a lot if possible.
 
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Stuphoto

Member III
Total Boat looks like a good product line, and when I looked about a month ago it wasn't available in Canada ☹️
 

alcodiesel

Bill McLean
I'd rather be sailing than varnishing. Eventually I stripped all the varnish off topside, sanded and oiled. Re apply oil every 6 to 9 months with a rag. Looks good enough for me while I am out on the bay.
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
I'd rather be sailing than varnishing. Eventually I stripped all the varnish off topside, sanded and oiled. Re apply oil every 6 to 9 months with a rag. Looks good enough for me while I am out on the bay.
Oil usually darkens and turns almost black after a few months, depending on environmental conditions. It's tricky to then get rid of the oil to return to varnish or cetol.
Frank
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Loren, I used Interlux Jet Speed varnish on my raw floorboards for the first seven coats. Dries fast, 2 coats a day. The final coats were traditional Schooner.

I think any of these quick-dry products are good for building up the base.
 

Jerry VB

E32-3 / M-25XP
I have been considering the touted benefits of a newer product: https://www.totalboat.com/product/lust/

Two years ago (on my previous boat) I used "Lust Rapid Recoat Marine Spar Varnish" for the first time. I would not rate it as gorgeous as Epifane, but it is much better (IMHO) than Cetol. It is dry to the touch (can be overcoated) in an hour which makes it MUCH more convenient than Epifane - I love nicely varnished teak, but I love to sail more.

This makes a bare wood varnish job shrink from a week of daily coats to two days of 3-4 coats per day (no sanding between repeated coats, only between days). I was also able to touch up the varnish without it being sticky for 12+ hours.

(original post)
 

Bolo

Contributing Partner
Dave, You opened an ant hill with your question about exterior bright work because there are many opinions about how to treat it and like Christian wrote, there are no wrong answers. I personally have done the varnish “dance” on my bright work and didn’t like the amount of time I was spending on it when I could be sailing. Also, the taffrail (that wood piece on top of the stern) kept shedding dried varnish because water was getting under the wood, IMO, and then evaporating through the top pushing the varnish off, I think. So I took all the finish off, sanded the taffrail to bare wood and used Cetol which allows moisture through it without separating it from the wood surface. I now use it for all of my exterior wood surfaces. The photo attached was taken soon after the Cetol had dried on the taffrail. The other photo is from a blog I posted (on a traveler upgrade) and you can see the finish close up. Like a personal choice of religion everyone seems to have their preference on finishing bright work. Mine is less work using Cetol and more sailing. As for your original question, I’d just do a spot sanding and varnishing. It won’t be perfect but bright work finishes never really are cause there are always imperfections if you look close enough. Your passengers will never notice. Don’t let it bother you.
 

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