Forward bulkhead rot in E26-2

Kevin Vine

Junior Member
The forward bulkhead in my '84 Ericson 26-II has developed significant rot at its base, and needs to be torn out and replaced. (This is the bulkhead immediately aft of the anchor chain locker, forward of the V-berth.) I've seen at least 3 Ericsons now with this problem, and I'm hoping that the solution is a wheel that has already been invented...

The rot is likely caused by a faulty seal around the anchor locker and the pulpit fittings... step one of the repair process will be to remedy that.

However, the process that follows is somewhat more problematic. The 1/2' teak plywood bulkhead is tabbed into the hull with fibreglass (rather sloppily, IMHO), and will be a bit of a bugger to remove and replace, as it involves stripping back liner, grinding out fibreglass, and basically creating a bloody mess, all while lying on your back in rather cramped and airless conditions.

Does anyone out there have any suggestions, opinions, warnings, or caveates regarding this pending project?
• I'd appreciate thoughts on tools that may reduce time, effort, and dust.
• I'm thinking that the replacement bulkhead should have a vent installed in the middle of it to allow for air movement in the very confined spaces between the hull, the locker, and the bulkhead.
• While I don't think it does, I'd be curious if anyone else thought the bulkhead might have any significant structural importance.

Thanks in advance for your input!

Regards,
Kevin
 

Glyn Judson

Moderator
Moderator
Anchor locker bulkhead issues.

Kevin,

What I'm about to share with you relates to the older 1979 E25+ we used to have so it might be 100% off base as it applies to your boat but here goes anyway.

As far as the tabbing is concerned, how about considering the use of a Dremel tool with saw circular blade fitted or a Roto Zip tool? I have the Makita version of the Roto Zip and I'm sure other makers offer them. I suggest these two tools as they are quite controllable and will probably be the best to limit glass dust, a nasty thing in the best of curcumstances. If I had to guess, I'd sasy the Dremel while a bit slower than a Roto Zip, would create the least debris. Additionally, how about getting a willing and small work partner like a kid or wife to assist by reaching over you with a vacuum cleaner and crevice tool that could be led just aft of the cutter in an attempt to limit the dust? I remember seeing this method used by the techs when drilling or cutting a spacecraft shelf at Hughes Space and Comm. about 100 years ago before retirement. By the way, your boat and mine are for all practical purposes the same hull, deck and inner liner. That's not to say that they're identical, but very similar.

That said, here's where my thoughts relate directly to my older version of your boat. I had a leak at that same bulkhead that orignated from the anchor locker deck access door. The aft, starboard corner of the rain gutter could only handle so much water flow and led any excess water directly into the boat, down that bulkhead and onto the starboard package tray. Ironically the water reached the end of the trail and pooled on the counter in the head outboard of the sink, having started at the bow of the boat. I repaired the gutter and the leak went away. You might want to check to see if your leak is from a similar source. By the way, my leak had no relationship to the pulpit bases.

I can't remember if your boat has those same trays or not to port and starboard but if so, you might want to consider a trick I employed that greatly increased stowage in the V-berth. I fashioned a 2 foot deep V-shaped shelf that fit over the lips of the trays and keyed into them by means of a 1X1 fiddle outboard of the lips on both sides attached to the underside of the shelf. I used 1/2 inch plywood and stiffened it with a teak fiddle along the trailing edge. After sanding and several coats of varnish, the darned thing looked like it was a factory option. I actually went further and match-drilled two 1/4 inch holes at the aft end of the plywood through the vertical tray edges that I slipped two pins into as a means of preventing the shelf from moving about in any kind of seas we might have encountered to and from Catalina Island. At the end of the day, the pins weren't needed and I removed them. As I recall, we were able to stuff several large bags of winter weather gear and bedding up there which left the V-berth not only useable but neat and uncluttered in appearance.

I know this is a long way from what you wanted to hear from us or me but thought you might like the ideas anyway. Good luck, Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey, CA
 

Kevin Vine

Junior Member
Bulkhead blues

Thanks for the info, Glyn...

A friend has recommended that I try using the "Fein MultiMaster" tool, and has been gracious enough to lend me his. The tool will apparently cut through virtually anything with ease and precision (given the right blade), while minimizing dust.

I'm going to give it a whirl tomorrow, and I'll let you know how it went!
 

Kevin Vine

Junior Member
Bulkhead Blues #2

As it turned out, the Fein MultiMaster worked so well that I am considering buying one for myself! The tool cut through the fibreglass easily, and most importantly, deposited the debris in a neat little pile directly underneath where I was working -- as opposed to spreading it throughout the rest of the cabin -- where it was quickly swept up and disposed of.

The rest of the removal was accomplished with a couple of chisels and a hammer to act as a pursuader when necessary. All in all, I am pleased with the way the "removal phase" has gone. I'm now ready to replace the bulkhead.

In prepping the new bulkhead, I am going to do two things that the factory didn't:
• I will seal the inside of the bulkhead with a paint, so that the wood will not so readily absorb moisture.
• I will install a vent so that air in the forepeak can move (along the the moisture it carries...)

The really good news is that I found the source of the leak!
The factory wired the bow lights (mounted on the pulpit) by routing the wires up from the cabin, through the deck, and into the pulpit tubing via the stanchion base. The previous owner had "rewired", making only what can be described as a messy wet dripping tangle of corroded wires. I've torn it all out, properly re-wired with shielded conductor, and sealed it up with Sikaflex. I've also drilled a small hole at the base of the stanchion mount to allow water to drain out, rather than sitting there becoming problematic in its spare time.

Today, I begin putting everything together... more later.
 
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