Does Solenoid for Glow Plugs Make a Difference? [and Troubleshooting Installation]

[patrscoe]

I am considering to add a solenoid for the glow plugs to help on cold starts and wondering if it is worth the trouble.
Anyone has done this and found that it dramatically improves their cold start and use of glow plugs?

I have read other threads and forums, and they indicate it helps but do not conclude if it was really worth adding this to their wiring system.

Patrick

 

[supersailor]

I got a dramatic improvement when I added one to my system. I also threw away the mickey mouse wiring system the boat had at the same time so the improvement might be from both. Just cutting about 30 feet of unnecessary wiring out of of the system causes a dramatic rise in the voltage delivered to the plugs. Also, I haven't burned out a glow plug or starter switch since adding the solenoid. The starter works a lot less also.

 

[patrscoe]

Did you wire to include the starter or just the glow plug? I am reading up on how to wire one into the system.

 

[Frank Langer]

Did you wire to include the starter or just the glow plug? I am reading up on how to wire one into the system.

Hi,
There is a very good description of how to wire this change, and if you should, on the Marine How To site (formerly known as Mainesail) , which you can google. Click on Articles, then find the one on Universal / Westerbeke wiring, and scroll down quite far to find the Glow Plug section.
Frank

 

[bigd14]

Yes! Prior to solenoid addition it took 30+ seconds of glow plug afterwards only 10. Totally worth it.

 

[supersailor]

I also separated the glow plug circuit from the starter circuit. Now I do not need to push both buttons when the engine is warm. That means the only time the glow plugs are needed is the first start in the morning unless it is really cold that day. It is much easier to push just the one button.

 

[patrscoe]

Sounds great. Thanks.
I just ordered what Mainsail recommended, Cole-Hersee 24059 on Amazon and will start to read up on the wiring diagram.
I use my glow plugs a lot as I sail more in the early spring and late in the year - better wind during these times on the Chesapeake Bay.
When it's below 45 or even 50, my diesel is stubborn. Probably because it is getting old and losing a little compression through the years.

 

[supersailor]

If you want to see if your diesel is old and worn, do a compression test. If it's up to snuff, the diesel is not old and worn. That point is usually around 5,000 hours on these engines. Accessories can and do wear out but they do it on every engine and not just the marine engines. You will notice a huge difference with a solenoid. If the glow plugs are not working up to snuff, the engine starting will be difficult and the colder it is, the harder it will be to start the engine.

 

[jtsai]

I was about to add the solenoid during the winter but decided to replace glow plugs first since they were 31 years old. The pre-heat time reduced to roughly half after replaced 2 of the 3 glow plugs (w.o. adding solenoid). So consider replacing glow plugs too if they are original, they are $7 a piece at local NAPT auto parts store. Hopefully my daughter's smaller hand can help replacing the 3rd one that requires removing intake manifold.

During the project, the inline fuse from starter solenoid to ignition was also replaced with automobile blade style fuse. The whole starting experience is much improved.

 

[Parrothead]

In pure electrical terms, the solenoid system is simply one way to mitigate voltage drop. A properly designed electrical circuit does the same thing (sufficient wire gauge to handle the amperage - length - wire resistance function) instead of a solenoid.

 

[patrscoe]

While reading the wiring diagram for adding a solenoid, I ended up going down a rabbit hole of reading on the C-34 site about the hazards of the existing wiring for the control panel for a M25; trailer connectors, long / dangerous run for the gauges and so on. I have replaced the glow plugs last year but I think adding a solenoid makes sense and does not seem like a huge job.
I also like to clean up the wiring and perhaps address removing the trailer connector that Mainsail noted - if I have that type of connections.

Odd.... I have not heard of any threads or issues on this site on the dangerous wiring of a Universal diesel, as Mainsail noted on his site.
Is it related to Catalinas Universals or all associated Universal set ups?

 

[Loren Beach]

Universal-Westerbeke went cheap on their wiring harness options for OEM's back in those days. Thousands of engines sold to Catalina and Ericson, to name only two. If you have read Maine Sail's excellent writeup on the problems this created, you have full information. Matter of fact, I confirmed the problem of the "trailer connectors" when doing some trouble shooting just prior to replacing our Universal diesel.
There are copious threads about this, here and on the Catalina 34 site, as well.
Blog entry where this was mentioned: https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/ubs/engine-replacement-olson-34.616/

 

[Christian Williams]

The infamous "trailer connections," which allowed the factory to "snap in" the wiring harnesses of the engines. If corroded or suspect, they're easy to cut out.

 

[Kenneth K]

In pure electrical terms, the solenoid system is simply one way to mitigate voltage drop. A properly designed electrical circuit does the same thing (sufficient wire gauge to handle the amperage - length - wire resistance function) instead of a solenoid.

The problem with the "properly designed electrical circuit" in this case is that the wiring run is so long. Using the Blue Seas Circuit Wizard, a 20ft / 3 glow-plug circuit needs 8 ga wire. A 25ft / 4 glow-plug circuit needs 6 ga wire. Those are both expensive, and a PITA to re-run the wires.

The solenoid allows you to use the existing 10ga wire (to power the solenoid) and just add a 2-3 ft length of (your choice) wire to power the plugs.

I did the upgrade and went from 30-40 sec glow plug warming times to 10-15 sec. I also like the audible "click" of the solenoid closing. It lets you know the circuit is actually being energized. Although, if you watch the voltage drop on your meter, that verifies whether the plugs are actually being energized or not.

 

[Ruckus.adrift]

I also went from 45sec to a minute of glowplug (which didn't always cold start) to about 10 seconds, which always starts first try. Super worth it.

 

[patrscoe]

Do you know the size of fuse you installed between the starter positive bolt to the solenoid? I can't seem to find the draw and fuse that would be required.

 

[Kenneth K]

Glowplugs draw something like 7A each, so maybe 25-30A fuse for 3 plugs and 40A fuse for 4.

 

[bigd14]

Fuse size should be determined by the minimum wire size you are using in the circuit (you can always use a smaller fuse than recommended of course). Handy chart here: http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/Choose_the_Fuse_Amperage.jpg

 

[JSM]

Used an $8.00 relay from the auto parts store. Temp is 45 in Chicago today and she fired up after a quick 10 count on the glow plug button.

 

[Parrothead]

Glowplugs draw something like 7A each, so maybe 25-30A fuse for 3 plugs and 40A fuse for 4.

As an example of circuit design I mentioned earlier, using these values (28 amps for 4 glow plugs, 10 foot one way circuit length, 12.7 VDC, no solenoid), you'd need 6 gauge wire to keep the voltage drop under 3%**. Is it any wonder glow plugs underperform with factory wiring?

**Voltage drop calculators vary slightly depending on the formula used.