Deck Organiser on 35-2
- Thread starter sailorman
- Start date
35-2 Ericson Deck Organiser
Dave, plan to run all lines to the cockpit (halyards,etc.) need to install deck organisers,bull eyes and rope clutchs.
Dave, plan to run all lines to the cockpit (halyards,etc.) need to install deck organisers,bull eyes and rope clutchs.
Probably more than one way to do this..... but..........
Strictly FWIW....
On our prior boat with an internal frp full head liner, I installed organizers to direct the lines back down to clutches on each side of the hatch.
I drilled thru with a small-size bit from the outside. Then used that small hole in the overhead to center a hole saw for a one inch hole (might have been 1 1/4", it's been a long time ago.)
Once the proper size holes -- for two or three axles -- were then drilled from the outside for the bolts, I had bolts that I had cut to length for going thru just emough to be flush with nylock nuts up against fender washers. I had to use some tape and temporary hold-onto's for the washers and nuts to get them started. One person to hold the outside while the other person tightened up the inside nuts. I recall losing one washer inside the head liner.....
It helped that there was about a half inch (+ or -) between the molded head liner and the bottom of the coring.
Once the new organizers were bedded and tightened, we painted some hardware store twenty-five cent "hole plugs" to match the color of the head liner and pressed them into place.
And, "Bob's your uncle" as they say.
You could see the pattern of those flat plugs on the inside but they looked "stock" and blended right in. (IMHO)
Loren
Strictly FWIW....
On our prior boat with an internal frp full head liner, I installed organizers to direct the lines back down to clutches on each side of the hatch.
I drilled thru with a small-size bit from the outside. Then used that small hole in the overhead to center a hole saw for a one inch hole (might have been 1 1/4", it's been a long time ago.)
Once the proper size holes -- for two or three axles -- were then drilled from the outside for the bolts, I had bolts that I had cut to length for going thru just emough to be flush with nylock nuts up against fender washers. I had to use some tape and temporary hold-onto's for the washers and nuts to get them started. One person to hold the outside while the other person tightened up the inside nuts. I recall losing one washer inside the head liner.....
It helped that there was about a half inch (+ or -) between the molded head liner and the bottom of the coring.
Once the new organizers were bedded and tightened, we painted some hardware store twenty-five cent "hole plugs" to match the color of the head liner and pressed them into place.
And, "Bob's your uncle" as they say.
You could see the pattern of those flat plugs on the inside but they looked "stock" and blended right in. (IMHO)
Loren
Hi Sailorman,
The way I added a deck organizer and clutch on my E27 (fg headliner) was to drill the holes for the organizer fasteners through the deck, core and into the cabin. Then drilled a slightly larger hole just through the top layer (deck) FG. Next I hogged out the core with a dremel bit, taped off the underside and filled the holes with epoxy. After the epoxy cured I redrilled the holes for the fasteners. You might find that there are some core voids especially near the curve from the horizontal cabin top to the cabin sides. I ended up having to shove some twisted paper towel in a couple of spots to create a dam so the epoxy wouldn't keep flowing into the void. On the inside I used acorn nuts so there isn't anything sharp.
The way I added a deck organizer and clutch on my E27 (fg headliner) was to drill the holes for the organizer fasteners through the deck, core and into the cabin. Then drilled a slightly larger hole just through the top layer (deck) FG. Next I hogged out the core with a dremel bit, taped off the underside and filled the holes with epoxy. After the epoxy cured I redrilled the holes for the fasteners. You might find that there are some core voids especially near the curve from the horizontal cabin top to the cabin sides. I ended up having to shove some twisted paper towel in a couple of spots to create a dam so the epoxy wouldn't keep flowing into the void. On the inside I used acorn nuts so there isn't anything sharp.
Last edited:
Fitting acorn nuts properly.
All, Slightly off topic but of possible interest to some of you, I want to pass on a neat trick I learned from a mechanic years ago. It was the occasion of installing a 10 inch Lewmar hatch on the front slope of the cabin trunk in our E25+. I through-bolted all the way around the hatch with deliberately overly-long threads protruding into the V-berth overhead. Washers and Nylok nuts secured the hatch leaving lengths of thread still sticking down. Now, here's the trick: I hand tightened a standard nut onto the threads until it bottomed out on the top of the Nylok nut. I grabbed the remaining thread with a pair of Visegrips and bent them off using a back and forth motion and backed the standard nut off to chase the threads. It turns out the remaining thread length is enough to accept several turns of an acorn nut and short enough to allow it to bottom out on the Nylok, creating a clean, uniform and finished look. Cheers, Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey, CA
All, Slightly off topic but of possible interest to some of you, I want to pass on a neat trick I learned from a mechanic years ago. It was the occasion of installing a 10 inch Lewmar hatch on the front slope of the cabin trunk in our E25+. I through-bolted all the way around the hatch with deliberately overly-long threads protruding into the V-berth overhead. Washers and Nylok nuts secured the hatch leaving lengths of thread still sticking down. Now, here's the trick: I hand tightened a standard nut onto the threads until it bottomed out on the top of the Nylok nut. I grabbed the remaining thread with a pair of Visegrips and bent them off using a back and forth motion and backed the standard nut off to chase the threads. It turns out the remaining thread length is enough to accept several turns of an acorn nut and short enough to allow it to bottom out on the Nylok, creating a clean, uniform and finished look. Cheers, Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey, CA
Tom Plummer
Member III
Fiberglass Head Liner??? It never ceases to amaze me the things I learn on this web site. I have been a member since 2001 and it just keeps coming. I have a vinyl headliner which has seen better days to the point that I an going to have to replace it. I was thinking about using a plastic material that looks like bead board, it looks, cuts and paints like real wood, is a lot lighter and obviously won't rot. Now I find that there is a different alternative. Is the headliner a one piece molded affair or is it a thin sheet that was flexible enough to bend into place/ How is it attached to the overhead? Do you have pictures?
Hi Tom,
It is a molded affair and forms pockets for the bulkheads and compression post. It also makes a chase for the wiring at the hull to deck joint. Not something you would make after the fact. I like your idea of using composite bead-board. Here is a photo I found showing the molded FG headliner on my E27.
It is a molded affair and forms pockets for the bulkheads and compression post. It also makes a chase for the wiring at the hull to deck joint. Not something you would make after the fact. I like your idea of using composite bead-board. Here is a photo I found showing the molded FG headliner on my E27.
Attachments
-
DSCN3745.jpg