Cracks at anchor plate on 38-200

[FrankJ]

Hi ,

This is a 2nd thread as the first one appears to be lost with the site hacking.

I'd appreciate your opinion on the reason for the crack that seems to start under the anchor plate.
See attached pics. The crack first appeared about three years ago and has progress back. The boat has not
been hit in this area and there's NO apparent moisture inside under the anchor pan.

Frank

 

[Loren Beach]

Very tough area to work on, from the back side. Maybe impossible.
Probably best to grind it back on the outside and lay in some glass and resin. Then re-gelcoat the repair and polish out. Nearby hardware would have to be removed first, also.

It might be an area where the gel coat was laid on too thick. Maybe.

Unfortunately it's pretty hard to tell without opening up the wound.

LB

 

[Christian Williams]

Frank,

Re the reason: if the anchor was stuck, and you winched the bejesus out of the rode trying to pull it up, would all that downward force on the bow roller lift and crack the deck behind it?

Just a thought--

 

[wheelerwbrian]

I had the same problem, and feared water intrusion with a freeze / thaw cycle. After the yard opened it up and ground it out from the top, they determined that it was gel and resin pooling in the mold when the deck was laid, making a brittle area. They ground it out, fiberglassed and gelcoated it (matching the color quite well, which is beyond my capbility). We'll see how it holds - repair was this past spring.

 

[Rocinante33]

Frank,

Re the reason: if the anchor was stuck, and you winched the bejesus out of the rode trying to pull it up, would all that downward force on the bow roller lift and crack the deck behind it?

Just a thought--

Even if it wasn't stuck, if it was well set, the boat bobs up and down on the swell, each time lifting with all the inertia of the entire boat and it's contents rising only to have the anchor rode or chain jerk it to a stop. And that happens every 10 seconds for the duration of the anchoring event. That bow plate and anchor roller extend off of the bow some distance, correct? I can't tell from the pics. That adds leverage to the system, too. That probably caused your stress cracks.

You have good replies about the repair, but I would add one more thought. Find the end of the crack and drill a hole there before epoxying the crack. I would drill all the way through. That drilled hole will create an end to the crack so it won't continue to extend, even in the future after the superficial crack has been filled.

Also, when at anchor you may want to bring the rode to the cleat at the side of the bow instead of leaving the strain all on the bow roller. You can even tie a dock line to the anchor rode with a rolling hitch, tie off that line to the port cleat, bring the rode around to the starboard side and you have made a bridle to distribute the load to the cleats on both sides. There is a lot less strain that way and all strain is off that bow roller.

 

[FrankJ]

Thank you for your ideas and thoughts. Im having a professional glass guy do the work, at Brewers at Stratford CT.
Ill update when the job is done.

Frank