Alan Clendinen
Member II
Can someone please tell me what the bridge clearance is for a 1987 Ericson 35 MkIII? We're trying to see if we can take her through the Cross Florida Barge Canal/Okeechobee Waterway.
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Bridge Clearance E35 MkIII
- Thread starter Alan Clendinen
- Start date
SASSY
Member II
Mast height
The mast height above the water line on the 1987 E-34 is 51'. The mast height above the cabin top is 46'. Based on the specs for the 82 E-35 the rig specs are the same as the 87 E-34. From what I have heard about the Okachobee is that there is a company that will strap barels to the side of you boat and fill them causing a controled heel of the boat allowing you to pass under the low bridges. I am in the planning stages of doing the same trip. I will find out tomorow if this is actualy the case and let you know.
Andy
The mast height above the water line on the 1987 E-34 is 51'. The mast height above the cabin top is 46'. Based on the specs for the 82 E-35 the rig specs are the same as the 87 E-34. From what I have heard about the Okachobee is that there is a company that will strap barels to the side of you boat and fill them causing a controled heel of the boat allowing you to pass under the low bridges. I am in the planning stages of doing the same trip. I will find out tomorow if this is actualy the case and let you know.
Andy
HughHarv
Hugh
You may be able to verify the masthead clearance (or antenna, windex) from the dock, or maybe even from the water. Think of your mast as one side of a right triangle, move 51 feet away at any angle and you'll form the other leg of a right triangle. Now then, the angle between your masthead and water should be 45 degrees, if not then the mast is taller or shorter than 51 feet. Move till you make it 45 degrees up, measure the distance to the base of your mast and voila, you have your masthead clearance. Also, if your eyeball height is x feet off the water you can subtract that distance from your 51 feet distance away from the mast and still maintain a 45 degree angle.
FYI, I once saw a video on U-tube of someone going under that same bridge with barrels hanging from the masthead. They were way out over the water inorder to heel the boat far over. It is surprising how much heel is required in order to gain even a few feet of clearance.
FYI, I once saw a video on U-tube of someone going under that same bridge with barrels hanging from the masthead. They were way out over the water inorder to heel the boat far over. It is surprising how much heel is required in order to gain even a few feet of clearance.
Alan Clendinen
Member II
Andy,
Please note that our boat is an E-35 MK III, which is a tall-rig. I'm certain that the Ericson models you mentioned have shorter bridge clearances. I really need to know what the bridge clearance figure is for this specific model of Ericson, because according to my cruising guide, you can't do the mast-leaning trick with a boat that has a bridge clearance of greater than 53 feet.
Alan
Please note that our boat is an E-35 MK III, which is a tall-rig. I'm certain that the Ericson models you mentioned have shorter bridge clearances. I really need to know what the bridge clearance figure is for this specific model of Ericson, because according to my cruising guide, you can't do the mast-leaning trick with a boat that has a bridge clearance of greater than 53 feet.
Alan
Alan,
I suggest that you need some empirical evidence...
You know, Real World info.
Tie the end of your hundred-foot tape you bought on the cheap at Harbor Freight to a mast head halyard shackle, and then tie a 60 fot retrieval line to the shackle in case the tape end comes loose.
Hoist to top. Estimate additional to allow end of roll to reach the water, secure it at that point and ease it over the side to the water level.
Add feet as appropriate to allow for additional height above halyard sheave, like the mast head fitting and antenna/wind transducer. You can usually step back on the dock somewhere and eye ball the top additional distance with your $200. binoculars that you bought on sale (been there, done that!).
Write this clearance number down in large numbers and tape it to the nav. table...
Once all this work is done and the halyard is restored to stowed position, open up a bottle of Pyramid - Hefeweizen and relax!
Best,
LB
ps: this procedure usually does not invoke the Heisenberg uncertainty principle...
:nerd:
I suggest that you need some empirical evidence...
You know, Real World info.
Tie the end of your hundred-foot tape you bought on the cheap at Harbor Freight to a mast head halyard shackle, and then tie a 60 fot retrieval line to the shackle in case the tape end comes loose.
Hoist to top. Estimate additional to allow end of roll to reach the water, secure it at that point and ease it over the side to the water level.
Add feet as appropriate to allow for additional height above halyard sheave, like the mast head fitting and antenna/wind transducer. You can usually step back on the dock somewhere and eye ball the top additional distance with your $200. binoculars that you bought on sale (been there, done that!).
Write this clearance number down in large numbers and tape it to the nav. table...
Once all this work is done and the halyard is restored to stowed position, open up a bottle of Pyramid - Hefeweizen and relax!
Best,
LB
ps: this procedure usually does not invoke the Heisenberg uncertainty principle...
:nerd:
Morgan Stinemetz
Moderator
Alan,
Listen to Loren. He is very smart. He has been there, done that. All of it.
Also, the Cross Florida Barge Canal and the Okeechobee Waterway are two different entities, in different parts of the state. The Cross Florida Barge Canal was never completed, so it dead ends inland. It's the water way to absolutely nowhere. It's like going ashore in some remote part of Florida because you hear banjo music coming from the woods. Don't do it!
Morgan Stinemetz
Listen to Loren. He is very smart. He has been there, done that. All of it.
Also, the Cross Florida Barge Canal and the Okeechobee Waterway are two different entities, in different parts of the state. The Cross Florida Barge Canal was never completed, so it dead ends inland. It's the water way to absolutely nowhere. It's like going ashore in some remote part of Florida because you hear banjo music coming from the woods. Don't do it!
Morgan Stinemetz
Alan Clendinen
Member II
Loren,
That's a dandy technique for measuring the mast height, and I may do rthat unless I can get a definitive answer from someone who knows the answer.
I searched the web and found about a dozen E-35 MK III for sale, and nine of them stated in their specs that the bridge clearance was 49-feet and 5 inches, but then another one stated that it was 54 feet, and another one had it as 55 feet, so these discrepancies leave me unsure of the real measurement.
Alan
That's a dandy technique for measuring the mast height, and I may do rthat unless I can get a definitive answer from someone who knows the answer.
I searched the web and found about a dozen E-35 MK III for sale, and nine of them stated in their specs that the bridge clearance was 49-feet and 5 inches, but then another one stated that it was 54 feet, and another one had it as 55 feet, so these discrepancies leave me unsure of the real measurement.
Alan
Alan,
I suggest that you need some empirical evidence...
You know, Real World info.
Tie the end of your hundred-foot tape you bought on the cheap at Harbor Freight to a mast head halyard shackle, and then tie a 60 fot retrieval line to the shackle in case the tape end comes loose.
Hoist to top. Estimate additional to allow end of roll to reach the water, secure it at that point and ease it over the side to the water level.
Add feet as appropriate to allow for additional height above halyard sheave, like the mast head fitting and antenna/wind transducer. You can usually step back on the dock somewhere and eye ball the top additional distance with your $200. binoculars that you bought on sale (been there, done that!).
Write this clearance number down in large numbers and tape it to the nav. table...
Once all this work is done and the halyard is restored to stowed position, open up a bottle of Pyramid - Hefeweizen and relax!
Best,
LB
ps: this procedure usually does not invoke the Heisenberg uncertainty principle...
:nerd:
Tall Rig?
I am often wrong, but I was not aware of any 35-3's with a rig taller than the 46' I, P of 39. You can verify this with a tape measure of course-The P is the luff of the mainsail, so shackle a tape to the main halyard and pull it up to the sheave, then meassure to the top of the band on the mast (even with the top face of the boom)-this should be 39'. If it is more, you do probabaly have a taller rig, but I am pretty sure you have the 46' I.
If you look at the specs, there is a 46' I and a freeboard of 4'4" at the bow, slightly less at the stern. Use the bow freeboard to be safe and you get roughly 50' 4" for height above water-although since the base of I is about the location of the chainplates, 50' is closer to reality...which matches one of the brochures showing a "mast height" of 50'..
I have to comment that this is a very unusual spec to publish (most designers do not do this)-at least without clarifying it to mean "height above water".
This value is not based on any mast dimensions and has nothing to do with sail area or sizes-it just refers to the height above water AT NORMAL LOADING...If you have an empty boat, it will be higher, if fully loaded, it might be lower..get the point?
Back to your issue: This 50' does NOT account for any antenna or instruments above the mast, so add something for that..
If you still are convinced you have a tall rig, and want to calculate this, take the "I" measurement (from your documents, from your own measurement or from your sailmaker), and add 4'4" for freeboard, plus whatever you have sticking above the mast for instruments or antennae..
To measure the I yourself, shackle the genoa (center) halyard and hoist the tape up to the sheave. Measure the length with the "smart" end of the tape flat on the deck right next to the chainplate for the upper shrounds. This should be about .5-2" LESS than the published or actual I measurement.. Of course once you have gone this far, take the tape down to the water line and you will know everything except for the stuff sticking up above the rig!
Having said all this- take the advice of my fellow denizens-they are pretty smart!!
S
I am often wrong, but I was not aware of any 35-3's with a rig taller than the 46' I, P of 39. You can verify this with a tape measure of course-The P is the luff of the mainsail, so shackle a tape to the main halyard and pull it up to the sheave, then meassure to the top of the band on the mast (even with the top face of the boom)-this should be 39'. If it is more, you do probabaly have a taller rig, but I am pretty sure you have the 46' I.
If you look at the specs, there is a 46' I and a freeboard of 4'4" at the bow, slightly less at the stern. Use the bow freeboard to be safe and you get roughly 50' 4" for height above water-although since the base of I is about the location of the chainplates, 50' is closer to reality...which matches one of the brochures showing a "mast height" of 50'..
I have to comment that this is a very unusual spec to publish (most designers do not do this)-at least without clarifying it to mean "height above water".
This value is not based on any mast dimensions and has nothing to do with sail area or sizes-it just refers to the height above water AT NORMAL LOADING...If you have an empty boat, it will be higher, if fully loaded, it might be lower..get the point?
Back to your issue: This 50' does NOT account for any antenna or instruments above the mast, so add something for that..
If you still are convinced you have a tall rig, and want to calculate this, take the "I" measurement (from your documents, from your own measurement or from your sailmaker), and add 4'4" for freeboard, plus whatever you have sticking above the mast for instruments or antennae..
To measure the I yourself, shackle the genoa (center) halyard and hoist the tape up to the sheave. Measure the length with the "smart" end of the tape flat on the deck right next to the chainplate for the upper shrounds. This should be about .5-2" LESS than the published or actual I measurement.. Of course once you have gone this far, take the tape down to the water line and you will know everything except for the stuff sticking up above the rig!
Having said all this- take the advice of my fellow denizens-they are pretty smart!!
S
Last edited:
Gary Peterson
Marine Guy
Take the mast down and motor thru?____________Nah
Alan Clendinen
Member II
Seth,
Thanks for your informative reply. Sounds like the most probable bridge clearance measurement for this E-35 MK III is50 feet (plus windvane), but we'll certainly take measurements to verify this before we take her across LakeOkeechobee.
Alan
Thanks for your informative reply. Sounds like the most probable bridge clearance measurement for this E-35 MK III is50 feet (plus windvane), but we'll certainly take measurements to verify this before we take her across LakeOkeechobee.
Alan
I am often wrong, but I was not aware of any 35-3's with a rig taller than the 46' I, P of 39. You can verify this with a tape measure of course-The P is the luff of the mainsail, so shackle a tape to the main halyard and pull it up to the sheave, then meassure to the top of the band on the mast (even with the top face of the boom)-this should be 39'. If it is more, you do probabaly have a taller rig, but I am pretty sure you have the 46' I.
If you look at the specs, there is a 46' I and a freeboard of 4'4" at the bow, slightly less at the stern. Use the bow freeboard to be safe and you get roughly 50' 4" for height above water-although since the base of I is about the location of the chainplates, 50' is closer to reality...which matches one of the brochures showing a "mast height" of 50'..
I have to comment that this is a very unusual spec to publish (most designers do not do this)-at least without clarifying it to mean "height above water".
This value is not based on any mast dimensions and has nothing to do with sail area or sizes-it just refers to the height above water AT NORMAL LOADING...If you have an empty boat, it will be higher, if fully loaded, it might be lower..get the point?
Back to your issue: This 50' does NOT account for any antenna or instruments above the mast, so add something for that..
If you still are convinced you have a tall rig, and want to calculate this, take the "I" measurement (from your documents, from your own measurement or from your sailmaker), and add 4'4" for freeboard, plus whatever you have sticking above the mast for instruments or antennae..
To measure the I yourself, shackle the genoa (center) halyard and hoist the tape up to the sheave. Measure the length with the "smart" end of the tape flat on the deck right next to the chainplate for the upper shrounds. This should be about .5-2" LESS than the published or actual I measurement.. Of course once you have gone this far, take the tape down to the water line and you will know everything except for the stuff sticking up above the rig!
Having said all this- take the advice of my fellow denizens-they are pretty smart!!
S
I betcha it's gonna turn out to be more than 50'. I mean, heck, our prior 26 foot cruiser we owned for a decade needed 42' of air draft.
We need about 58 to 60 for our present boat, factory equipped with the (very common option) "tall rig."
Please do check it for yourself.
Even if you are OK, but within an inch, there is always the threat of an errant Bayliner wake lifting you up a half a foot and stuffing your $500. wind transducer or the $60 Sparfly into the girders... Ouch!
Cheers,
LB
ps: old carpenter wisdom -- "measure twice, cut once"
We need about 58 to 60 for our present boat, factory equipped with the (very common option) "tall rig."
Please do check it for yourself.
Even if you are OK, but within an inch, there is always the threat of an errant Bayliner wake lifting you up a half a foot and stuffing your $500. wind transducer or the $60 Sparfly into the girders... Ouch!
Cheers,
LB
ps: old carpenter wisdom -- "measure twice, cut once"
SASSY
Member II
Mast height
The contact information for the barel company at the low bridge is Billy Owen. He can be contacted through Indian town Marina, and from the information I have found the bridge height is 49', and they can accomodate masts up to 53' when they heel it over. As for the water depth, it realy depends on the time of year, and overall percipitaion. They do close it in the event of low water. A friend of ours crossed in an Island Packet with a draft of 4'6" and a mast height of 49'6" with no problem.
The contact information for the barel company at the low bridge is Billy Owen. He can be contacted through Indian town Marina, and from the information I have found the bridge height is 49', and they can accomodate masts up to 53' when they heel it over. As for the water depth, it realy depends on the time of year, and overall percipitaion. They do close it in the event of low water. A friend of ours crossed in an Island Packet with a draft of 4'6" and a mast height of 49'6" with no problem.
steven
Sustaining Member
I wanted to do this transit a number of years ago but didn't have time. Curious how it works out.
From Army Corps we site (http://www.saj.usace.army.mil/), looks like Port Mayaca RR bridge is controlling @ 49' based on 14.5' water level.
Looks like if it's close you have to heel. Found this on the internet.
From Army Corps we site (http://www.saj.usace.army.mil/), looks like Port Mayaca RR bridge is controlling @ 49' based on 14.5' water level.
Looks like if it's close you have to heel. Found this on the internet.
Attachments
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Port Mayaca RR Bridge.jpg
Sven
Seglare
If you have a borometer ...
I'm surprised nobody has suggested hoisting a barometer to the top and then timing it as it drops to the deck to figure out how far it fell. I think one of the other suggestions was to tie the barometer to a halyard and time its period as a pendulum ?
The easiest suggestion was to just give the barometer as payment to someone who didn't mind measuring it for you.
-Sven
I'm surprised nobody has suggested hoisting a barometer to the top and then timing it as it drops to the deck to figure out how far it fell. I think one of the other suggestions was to tie the barometer to a halyard and time its period as a pendulum ?
The easiest suggestion was to just give the barometer as payment to someone who didn't mind measuring it for you.
-Sven
Alan Clendinen
Member II
Hey guys,
Just wanted to give you an update on this thread...
I hoisted a tape-measure up the mast, and added the results to a measurement of the remaining distance to the waterline. My 1987 E-35 MK III has a bridge clearance of 49 feet and 5 inches, which was the same figure I found on the majority of the E-35 MK IIIs being sold on the web. This makes me wonder about the couple of boats claiming 55 feet. Maybe they added a 5-foot 7 inch antenna?
Alan
Just wanted to give you an update on this thread...
I hoisted a tape-measure up the mast, and added the results to a measurement of the remaining distance to the waterline. My 1987 E-35 MK III has a bridge clearance of 49 feet and 5 inches, which was the same figure I found on the majority of the E-35 MK IIIs being sold on the web. This makes me wonder about the couple of boats claiming 55 feet. Maybe they added a 5-foot 7 inch antenna?
Alan
SASSY
Member II
Mast height
When do you plan on doing the trip? I want to cross around the middle of May and head up the coat before Hurican seaon hit's. I would go earlier but I have entered our E34 in the Sol Del Sol Regatta April 24th and won't be back until mid may. I draw 4'10" should that be of concern?
Thanks,
Andy
When do you plan on doing the trip? I want to cross around the middle of May and head up the coat before Hurican seaon hit's. I would go earlier but I have entered our E34 in the Sol Del Sol Regatta April 24th and won't be back until mid may. I draw 4'10" should that be of concern?
Thanks,
Andy
Cory B
Sustaining Member
Alan,
Just to throw another number at you, our estimate when the mast was out of the boat was 51' including the anchor light. Adding 3' for the VHF whip antenna (actually a bit less on ours because how its mounted) gave us 54' for complete bridge clearance - I figured there was about a foot of fudge factor in there. Our rig is the std rig.
The bridges around here are either way higher, or way lower, so the number hasn't been put to a serious test.
Just to throw another number at you, our estimate when the mast was out of the boat was 51' including the anchor light. Adding 3' for the VHF whip antenna (actually a bit less on ours because how its mounted) gave us 54' for complete bridge clearance - I figured there was about a foot of fudge factor in there. Our rig is the std rig.
The bridges around here are either way higher, or way lower, so the number hasn't been put to a serious test.
Alan Clendinen
Member II
Andy,
We will do the crossing around the end of this month. We draw five feet, and that won't be a problem right now. It's really hard to say what the water level will be like in mid-May. If south Florida gets some good rains April and early May, then your 4 foot 10 inch draft shouldn't be a problem, but if this drought continues, you might have a problem. I advize checking with the US Army Core of Engineers in the first half of May before you make the trip.
Alan
We will do the crossing around the end of this month. We draw five feet, and that won't be a problem right now. It's really hard to say what the water level will be like in mid-May. If south Florida gets some good rains April and early May, then your 4 foot 10 inch draft shouldn't be a problem, but if this drought continues, you might have a problem. I advize checking with the US Army Core of Engineers in the first half of May before you make the trip.
Alan