Bilge Pump Recommendations

[ChrisS]

As per Don Casey's advice, I'd like to install a small bilge pump (400 gph or smaller) with an internal float switch next to my 1800 gph Sureflo to dry my bilge out as much as possible. In addition drips from my stuffing box and the ice box, I'm still getting water in from my rudder stuffing box (I need to replce the packing, adjusting doesn't help).

Has anyone had any success with a bilge pump of this size? The smaller one at West Marine with an enclosed switch is the Rule-Mate 500 gph, which won't fit the space.

 

[jreddington]

When you say it doesn't fit, is it too tall? I installed a small bilge pump in my E-28 7 or 8 years ago. Boat originally only had a manual pump. The E-28 bilge is extremely shallow and a "cartridge" type, shaped like a can on end would not have fit my boat.

The one I installed has a much lower profile, retangular and only about 2 1/2" tall. Couldn't seem to find a picture to match it on either West Marine's or other sites.

Can't remember the make or model but will check next time I'm down at the boat. That pump's been working without a hitch all these years. Now I'm worried that when it finally goes to that final "bilge in the sky", I'll have trouble tracking down a replacement.

 

[ChrisS]

Hi Jim--

The bilge on the 32-2 is shallow, and so I can't fit the (round and tall) 1800 GPH pump I currently have, along with a smaller pump in the lowest part of the bilge. If I have to I'll buy two new pumps, so be it.

West Marine has very few internal switch pumps, so maybe I need to find another vendor that carries more. Anyone have ideas?

 

[chaco]

Remote Pumps

Have been through the Ringer on Bilge Pumps
The original was a Remote Water Puppy-Flexible Impeller Pump with funky pipe
strainer with holes. That burned up due to jammed impeller
The implellers freeze up on these pumps from lack of use and diesel fuel
being absorbed in to the rubber and enlarging the impeller.
Replaced it with Remote Jabsco PAR-Max 4 - Diaphragm Pump with new
improved 5/8" Bronze Bilge Strainer / InLine Pump Strainer and Electronic Bilge
Switch. This setup is working great. Any major cleanups after projects are
done with a shop vac to save the pump and keep debris from clogging the
hoses and strainers :nerd:
A Submersible Pump would NEVER fit in my TINY Bilge.
Do not favor Submersible Pumps for access / repair and drainback
With a Remote Pump all you need is room for the strainer.

Happy Pumping

 

[Glyn Judson]

Remote bilge pump.

Chris, As does Dan, I also have a remote, belt driven diaphragm pump on a shelf I made for it in the port lazerette. The seven foot long supply line from it leads to the bottom of my 44" deep, 4" wide bilge. There's a debris strainer at the end of the line that is good for floating slivers of plywood, etc. but not eouigh to catch the small stuff. So I have an ITT in-line strainer in the middle of that line that catches all the tiny junk that could clog the pump and render it useless (been there, had that happen). Even the smallest piece of crud caught in a flapper valve will totally shut down the pump. So the moral of this tale is to add a fine screen in-line filter and clean it periodically. Years ago since fitting that filter to my setup, it's run perfectly. I too use a wet/dry vacuum for getting the last drops out of the bilge from time to time as well. Good luck, Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey, CA

 

[rwthomas1]

The one and only bilge pump on my E38 is a Rule 500. The grid structure in this series of boat doesn't allow for a large submersible. I have looked into a diaphragm style remotely mounted as an additional pump but there is no good place to mount it. There is very little clearance for running a new large bilge discharge hose and I have just put off the upgrade until I can take apart the boat on the hard and really do a nice install. The 500 is obviously too small and the drainback leaves 1/2" water in the bilge that I pump/sponge out by hand when I feel like it. IMHO, one of the few flaws in the design. RT

 

[Geoff Johnson]

I have two Rule 500 pumps, both connected to smart switches, i.e. electronic switches with no moving parts.

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|299222|679971&id=344412

I mounted the switches with the heavy duty 3M velco type patches so that I can move them up or down. The aft pump is wired directly to the battery (with a fuse). The forward pump is operated through the 3-way (auto/manual/off) switch in the head and requires that the batteries be switched "on". Both pumps have check valves to stop the backflow from the long uphill lines to the stern. I know that the powers that be recommend against check valves, but I have found them to work well.

I looked at diaphragm pumps too, but found they were energy hogs and had low capacity.

No bilge pump is going to staunch a major leak.

PS Rule has started to manufacture again the pumps that check for water every two minutes and then shut off. I have used them in the past and found the only down side is having to listen to the pump at night.

 

[rwthomas1]

The reason I was leaning towards a diaphragm pump was twofold. Remote mounting was the first and positive displacement the other. The reputed "low capacity" of the diaphragm pumps is relative. A centrifugal type pump will produce very high GPH figures when pumping with no head, and most are rated this way. Put a centrifugal pump in a situation where its pumping uphill 3 or 4 feet and the flow numbers drop off drastically. The diaphragms perform very well even with significant head. RT

 

[Glyn Judson]

Virtues of a diaphragm pump.

Rob, In addition to being able to pump well up hill (my pickup line strainer is seven feet below the pump), the design principle is such that there's no back flow when it shuts off. What's in the line stays in the line until it turns on again and then it all repeats itself. I've actually looked into my deep bilge to see if the water in the hose returns when the pump shuts off, it doesn't. Regards, Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey, CA

 

[ChrisS]

Thanks to everyone for the learned discussion here. You guys have illustrated some options--I hadn't thought about a remote installation--and this improvement will be moved to the top of my list. The shallow bilge in the 32 means that when the boat heels, any water in the bilge ends up in the lockers underneath the setees. I've also read that water sitting in the bilge can bring on blisters, although I'm not sure if that's true or not. I just want a dry bilge, less boat smell, and dry gear.

 

[jreddington]

Was down working on the boat today and checked the bilge pump. It is an Attwood Guardian 500. Unfortunately, it appears this model is not made anymore. Looks like their nearest replacement is the Attwood Sahara available at this West Marine Link (or many other places)

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...9/0/0/attwood/All_2/mode matchallpartial/30/0

Not sure, but I think this one is a little taller than my Guardian so may not work in the same place.

As to centrifugal vs. diaphragm. My concern with the diaphragm is, as noted in earlier posts, all it takes is a small bit of debris in a flapper, and the diaphragm pump's performance goes down the tube, maybe when you need it most. If you protect it with a filter or fine strainer, again you're asking for a clog, losing the pump.

You are talking about a bilge where there is a good possibility of picking up debris during either "normal" or emergency operation.

I like the design of the Guardian pump as there is plenty of clearance to pass small amounts of debris. I'm sure those clearances cause a loss in efficiency but that's a trade off I'll live with. I do get some wash back. You can address that with a check valve, but once again, you are putting something in the line that can clog. I prefer a high loop with a discharge fairly high up on the transom to prevent siphoning. You can put an siphon break. The vent valve on this can stick too but at least that doesn't end up blocking the hose. Just check it regularly to make sure it vents when it needs to and doesn't leak during normal pump operation.

 

[Jason]

... Attwood Sahara available at this West Marine Link (or many other places)

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...9/0/0/attwood/All_2/mode matchallpartial/30/0

Had this pump for only a short time - no built in screen - anything in bilge will get sucked up into pump - burn it out - like mine.

I bought a Rule instead. Has a removable metal screen - much better pump:

http://www.rule-industries.com/products/pumps/bilge_pumps/rule_700750/iid_239/index.htm

Got it at We$t Marine....

 

[jreddington]

Reading reviews of both the Attwood Sahara and Rule 750 makes me think I've been very lucky with the pump I have. Has run completely trouble free for years. I check the outside of the base inlet ocassionally, once and a while removing debris. Cover pops off base for the winter. I can't ever remember removing anything in there. Just a quick wipe off of whatever bilgewater film has built up in there and making sure the the float moves freely. It does seem that the impeller, base, and body are of pretty cheap plastic but I can't argue with the longevity (knock on teak).

For both the Rule and the Sahara reviews on West Marine's site really complain about short life and multiple replacements. Only thing worse are reviews of the automatic electronic pumps, both burning out and not running when needed, and continuous running without water. I'll stick to the float type automatic pumps.

With my good experience with this old Guardian, makes me wish I had bought a spare for storage when this one eventually goes.