Advice rebedding chainplates
- Thread starter adam
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- e29 chainplates
Rocinante33
Contributing Partner
That chainplate is going to flex quite a bit, so I don't think epoxy would be wise there. It would be subject to large stress loads.
Before trying anything, I'd make sure the deck core was sealed in that opening. That would require removing the chainplate, digging out the core a little, and then sealing the edges with thickened epoxy. I might also try making the opening smaller, to within 1/8" or so from the chainplate, then seal it with butyl tape. I've found that butyl tape seals well, retains elasticity and seal in areas of some flexing like this, but doesn't keep a death grip on gel coat/paint like some adhesive goo I've used in the past.
Here's the link to buy butyl tape. I got two rolls of this stuff: one for the boat, and one for home. It oozes if you don't have the weeks available to keep compressing it, and has to be cut back sometimes, but performs well otherwise.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...cev2Bbcbn5nMFcrwxZnO_w&bvm=bv.116954456,d.cGc
Here's the link to buy butyl tape. I got two rolls of this stuff: one for the boat, and one for home. It oozes if you don't have the weeks available to keep compressing it, and has to be cut back sometimes, but performs well otherwise.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...cev2Bbcbn5nMFcrwxZnO_w&bvm=bv.116954456,d.cGc
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Last year I did what Ignacio suggested but my chainplates on my 327 are glassed in so I did not remove them. In my efforts to rebed just about everything because it was needed just about everywhere I cored out the deck area around that hardware in your pic. I wrapped saran wrap around the chainplates and I taped off underneath to prevent spills. Then I filled into the core and built it so the gap was not so large but definitely not touching the chainplate. Maybe an 1/8" or slightly more gap. Then butyl tape around plate and under the SS cover. No leaks. But I check underneath every few months to be sure.
frick
Member III
Chain Plate Sealing
On my E29, My chain plated have a top piece that slides over the actual chain plate and cover the hole in the deck. About ever 10 years or so, I have to remove the two screws and slide that plate up, clean and re-bed the hole with a flexible caulk. Silicon works well.
As to the Chain Plate inspection.... I remove the wood panel inside the boat which allows me to see the glassed in chain plate. I tap with my inspection hammer and listen. I look for any changes in color or water infiltration.
FYI... on My 1971 E29 when the Port side chain plate leaks that water ends up under the Galley woodwork. so, if you have dry rot on the bottom of the galley,,, I would check for deck leaks around the chain plates... If one is leaking,, I redo them all.
Rick+
On my E29, My chain plated have a top piece that slides over the actual chain plate and cover the hole in the deck. About ever 10 years or so, I have to remove the two screws and slide that plate up, clean and re-bed the hole with a flexible caulk. Silicon works well.
As to the Chain Plate inspection.... I remove the wood panel inside the boat which allows me to see the glassed in chain plate. I tap with my inspection hammer and listen. I look for any changes in color or water infiltration.
FYI... on My 1971 E29 when the Port side chain plate leaks that water ends up under the Galley woodwork. so, if you have dry rot on the bottom of the galley,,, I would check for deck leaks around the chain plates... If one is leaking,, I redo them all.
Rick+
I just redid some chainplates although a little different. I would do the following
1.The force of the chain plate is not on the deck but should be on the bulkhead below. Step one is to check below to see if the bulkhead is solid. Not delaminating due to years of water. A friend of mine has an E35 with wet bulkheads. That fix includes glass work to strengthen or replace bulkhead
2. Tap around chain plate for softness with light hammer or screwdriver. If solid go to next step. If not determine how much work you want to do to feel comfortable and safe. Depending on the softness a minimal repair would be tape around bottom to seal and pour in some resin. Not to fill the hole but rather to seal from future leaks I will attach a link about a major repair
https://j40sailors.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/chainplates.pdf
3.There should be a metal top for your chain plate that covers the hole. If the stainless top can be found and the bulkhead is fine. dig out old caulk, clean up and recaulk with 3m 4000 or polysulfide, If deck and bulkhead solid al that needs to be done is step 3
1.The force of the chain plate is not on the deck but should be on the bulkhead below. Step one is to check below to see if the bulkhead is solid. Not delaminating due to years of water. A friend of mine has an E35 with wet bulkheads. That fix includes glass work to strengthen or replace bulkhead
2. Tap around chain plate for softness with light hammer or screwdriver. If solid go to next step. If not determine how much work you want to do to feel comfortable and safe. Depending on the softness a minimal repair would be tape around bottom to seal and pour in some resin. Not to fill the hole but rather to seal from future leaks I will attach a link about a major repair
https://j40sailors.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/chainplates.pdf
3.There should be a metal top for your chain plate that covers the hole. If the stainless top can be found and the bulkhead is fine. dig out old caulk, clean up and recaulk with 3m 4000 or polysulfide, If deck and bulkhead solid al that needs to be done is step 3
Kevin A Wright
Member III
Chain plate repair
I would never use epoxy to seal the deck joint around the glassed in chainplates. There is a reason there is that big gap in the fiberglass deck around the plate - they need to move and flex. If you epoxy them in it will crack and start leaking again fairly quickly. Just make sure you clean it out really well, get it dry, and fill with 3M 4200. Did that with my E27 and it lasted about 14 years without another leak before I sold her. You could use 5200, but god help you if you ever have to redo the repair. Good Luck.
Kevin Wright
E35 Hydro Therapy
I would never use epoxy to seal the deck joint around the glassed in chainplates. There is a reason there is that big gap in the fiberglass deck around the plate - they need to move and flex. If you epoxy them in it will crack and start leaking again fairly quickly. Just make sure you clean it out really well, get it dry, and fill with 3M 4200. Did that with my E27 and it lasted about 14 years without another leak before I sold her. You could use 5200, but god help you if you ever have to redo the repair. Good Luck.
Kevin Wright
E35 Hydro Therapy
tenders
Innocent Bystander
I reiterate ignacio's suggestion. Reduce the span of the hole around the chainplate somewhat, if you can; seal the edges of the core around that hole with epoxy, as best you can; and use butyl tape liberally to seal any remaining gap. I think you'll find the butyl does everything you'd want 3M 4400 to do but is easier to inspect and replace. This is no place for 3M 5200. I'm finding there really isn't any place for 5200 on a boat.
You likely have a lot of core rot around these, especially in the area aft (downhill) of the chainplates. I had an almost identical looking situation on an Ericson 27 and the rot included much of the sidedecks. The construction in these areas has balsa core going right up to the chainplates, and water wicks a long ways in balsa. I could watch and hear the water sponging out of this area when I stepped on it. If the decks are not spongy you can probably get by for years without a major tearout and replace, but you should definitely seal these areas as mentioned by others to stop the leaks. Butyl is great stuff! Good luck.