Adventure and Misadventure: Engines & Seacocks

Rob

Member II
Update: Adventure and Misadventure

With the help of a friend (who is a competent sailor), I've transported the boat across the Georgia Straight from Nanaimo to her new temporary berth in North Vancouver.

:egrin:
Unfortunately, the trip was not free from incident.

:esad:

First, let me readily confess my idiocy. While I followed all of the proper protocols for starting up the diesel, I neglected (forgot) to do one important thing: I did not peer over the stern to ensure that raw water was flowing out of the exhaust through-hull. Well, I must have sucked up a plastic bag (I think) which starved the cooling system of salt water and undoubtedly fried the impeller. I was not aware of this until an overheat alarm sounded. The engine was shut down within about 30 - 45 seconds of the alarm going off (unfamiliar boat - was initially unsure if it was a buzzer or some resonant vibration in the cabin). Most of the fresh-water coolant was burned off (none in reservoir - but present in the tube running from the reservoir).

I HOPE there's no serious damage. It's a Westerbeke 10-TWO (vintage 1985). I have very little mechanical experience, but I'm a quick study and I figure I should try to fix this on my own. My current plan is to remove the old impeller; check connections and hoses leading to the heat exchanger for pieces of the old impeller (not sure if I should be opening up the heat exchanger); install new impeller and gasket (lubricating with petroleum jelly since it will momentarily run dry); replace fresh-water coolant; test run; if working - change oil twice. Please - advice and suggestions are welcome. Can I really do this on my own or is this asking for trouble? Based on my description, could I have done serious damage to the diesel? Is there any way to check for a blockage in the through-hull without going under or hauling (the raw water strainer has only a small amount of water in it, I'm not sure if it should show full only when there is suction from the raw water pump)?.

Other stupid questions: (1) There was standing water in the head sink despite seacocks being open. PO said that this was typical and probably due to the anti-siphon loop. Does that make sense? It seems to me that there should be an easy way to drain all water, particularly if you're going to lay-up for winter. (2) Under power and while we were being towed to the new marina, there was an intermittent jack-hammer-like vibration coming from the dripless shaft seal. This vibration is present about half the time and will persist for quite some time. The other half of the time the shaft can be seen turning with no noise or vibration. I have no idea if this is indicative of a problem. Could it be prop cavitation (Campbell Sailor) or imbalance from the shaft zincs?

Sorry for the length of this post....
 

Sean Engle

Your Friendly Administrator
Administrator
Founder
Hi Rob -

First - I moved your post to this forum - as you really want others to see it (and it's really deserving of it's own thread anyhow...). The Raftup is pretty much a social forum... oh - and don't worry about the length of your posts...

Anyhow - on your engine: If you shut it down when the alarm went off, and still see some coolent, I would think you're ok - some of the others here will comment more on this, I'm sure...

Be sure to locate/remove the cause of the blockage - otherwise all of this is pointless. If your strainer is only half full, perhaps you don't have an outside blockage - but instead have an air leak in the strainer itself - allowing the airpocket? The strainer should be full of water - not air.

Be sure to close your thru hull on your raw water supply before you open the casing of your pump to swap out the impeller. Once you replace the impeller and gasket, you should be able to open the raw water, and then open the small air bleed screw on top of the pump. That should allow air out and water to creep in.

You can also help prime the pump by putting water into it with a small meat baster (very useful item on a boat) - and also put in a very small amount of dish soap (like joy or dove) into the pump before you turn it. The turning of the impeller will cause the soap to foam - and it will be pushed out through your system by the following water. A friend showed me this trick - and it works great. You'll see the foam coming out the exhaust, followed by the water.

On the drain - that's really goofy. My drains went straight to the thru-hulls - I only had an anti-siphon loop on my head's discharge line. Your sinks should be above the waterline, making the loops superfluous (except perhaps when you're healing, and the sink goes below the waterline...), no? You can get to the bottom of that easily enough - close the thruhull, and pull the hose off - or check the cleanout on the anti-siphon loop.


//sse
 

CaptnNero

Accelerant
soaping it

...
You can also help prime the pump by putting water into it with a small meat baster (very useful item on a boat) - and also put in a very small amount of dish soap (like joy or dove) into the pump before you turn it. The turning of the impeller will cause the soap to foam - and it will be pushed out through your system by the following water. A friend showed me this trick - and it works great. You'll see the foam coming out the exhaust, followed by the water.

...
Yes, dish soap is the way to go. I've heard petroleum jelly is bad with the material of the blades.

Also there are now some fancy-smancy blue impellers (nitrile ?) which are pricey but are supposed to be much more durable.
 
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Rob

Member II
Clearing Through-Hull

Thanks for the dish soap trick. Good idea.

I'm really wondering now about why the strainer is mostly full of air. Perhaps the problem was just an air pocket - though I would have thought that there's be enough water pressure to eliminate the air at least up to the level of the pump (which I'm guessing would still be below the waterline).

Anyway, I picked up an impeller kit from my local Westerbeke dealer. I asked a few questions and picked up another tip: to clear a suspected through-hull blockage, cut of a piece of garden hose leaving the "female" fitting intact. Clamp the cut end of the hose onto the through-hull (making sure there's at least enough length for the "female" fitting to be held well above the water line). Attach the garden hose to the marina's fresh water supply via a second, complete water hose. Open the seacock and turn on the tap.... Please note, I have not tried this myself (yet) - I am only reporting what I was told.
 

Sean Engle

Your Friendly Administrator
Administrator
Founder
Perhaps when you hauled the boat out for it's inspection, some of the water was drawn out - creating a syphon of sorts - and pulled some of filter water out? I know when I hauled out, I once had the raw water line empty out - and then had to open the air bleed on the pump to get it back...

Anyhow - I think these things are doable - so not to worry. Just go over the raw water chain from thru hull to the pump and check the filter. Then fill it all up - prime it, etc and give it shot...

//sse
 

CaptnNero

Accelerant
many uses of garden hose

...tip: to clear a suspected through-hull blockage, cut of a piece of garden hose leaving the "female" fitting intact. Clamp the cut end of the hose onto the through-hull (making sure there's at least enough length for the "female" fitting to be held well above the water line). Attach the garden hose to the marina's fresh water supply via a second, complete water hose. Open the seacock and turn on the tap.... Please note, I have not tried this myself (yet) - I am only reporting what I was told.

Interesting idea. I hope I never have that much blockage. I have heard of taking the intake hose off of the strainer and blowing on it until it clears. If it takes more than that the garden hose is next I guess, kind of a power flush at the same time.
 

Bayleif

New Member
Impeller Lubricant

A friend of mine advised me to use Crisco as a lubricant for water pump impellers. It doesn't hurt the rubber and seems to increase the life of the impeller.

Chuck
71 E-35
 
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