A link to a how to video

[Guy Stevens]

Hey there fellow Vikings.

I have been busy at work on my first ever instructional video.

Shooting video, editing video, and putting it up in the general internet sphere are not things I have done before.

The video is on how to repair instrument holes in your cockpit.

http://realworldcruising.com/Video-Casts/

There are shots of the completed project on my E-46 along with a step by step of how to do it.

Would you guys mind jumping up there and taking a look at the video, and telling me if it works well for you, and what kinds of things might make the next one better.

I would also be interested in what kinds of things you might like to see small instructional videos of.

Thanks,
Guy Stevens

 

[Frank Langer]

Thanks, Guy. That was a useful video, especially for those new to working with epoxy. Your step by step approach is easy to follow and makes sense.

It would be helpful to have a video on making the proper adjustments to a Harken furler, showing both the piece at the top of the headstay, perhaps with a halyard restrainer to show how that works, and then how to adjust the headstay tension on the turnbuckle/furler mechanism, and then putting it all back together. Also tips on periodic maintenance, lubrication, etc. would be helpful.

Similarly, servicing and maintenance of a quadrant steering system on our boats--including correct wire cable tension, lubrication, replacing the pedestal chain, perhaps replacing cables, etc.

Another idea might be replacing the packing in the rudder stuffing box, and tightening it the correct amount.

I'm sure I could come up with lots of other ideas, but that's a start...

Frank

 

[mherrcat]

The opening title sequence is a little distracting, with all the still pictures moving behind the title graphic. A word commonly used to describe that type of sequence is "busy." Having the still images start full-screen then move back is distracting because you are covering up all the previous images each time you introduce a new one; there is not enough time to really "see" one image (especially behind the title graphic) before it is covered up by a new, full-screen image. I would consider re-editing the title sequence so it is visually smoother and have the title graphic appear at the end of the stills sequence over only the black background; having the title over other colors and shapes makes it hard to read. This would also eliminate the need to have the web address remain on the screen after the title fades out since is already part of the title.

At the end, I would again not have "titles over titles" for the credits. If you want the show logo on the screen at the same time as the credits I would try to find a way to not have them overlap. And if you do a zoom in on the logo at the very end, have it hang there two or three seconds longer before fading out so the web address is easily noted.

A couple of things I was not clear on in the presentation: Are all the layers of resin-soaked cloth applied while they are still wet? In other words, none are allowed to cure prior to applying the next? Also, are the layers of cloth supposed to completely fill the void left from the original cutout? Because it appears that they do not.

 

[Martin King]

Well, I don't want to be a wet blanket but you did ask for opinions
so here is mine. When repairing holes that size or larger in glass, I was
taught to bevel the edges back with a grinder. The rule of thumb is
roughly 10-12 times the thickness of the laminate. This allows for
more bonding area and reduces stress concentrations. Then the
laminate is rebuilt to almost the same thickness with multiple layers
of wet glass before final fairing. If the beveling step is skipped, and
the boat is sailed hard, there is a very good chance that over time
stress cracks will appear underneath the topcoat indicating where
the old holes were.

Respectfully,

Martin

 

[Guy Stevens]

Good thoughts folks.

Martin, Yes if it were a heavily stressed area a bevel would definitely be the even better as it would eliminate some of the stress riser effects. The issue with this repair is the amount of furniture or permanent interior pan that would have to be removed to get a good grind on the surface. But if those were not issues than yes I definitely recommend a little grinding. Something to try and show if I ever film another one of this project.

I haven't seen any cracking with replacements if they used Epoxy, I have seen significant cracking if there was polyester resin used even with correct beveling.

The plan for the videos is to shoot them in actual boats with the actual projects going on. My goal is to have the actual owners of those boats doing the work. It presents more of a realistic idea of what you are going to encounter. However it does stretch my knowledge and skills to shoot and edit video.

Mark, I was going for busy and action packed for the opening credits. Maybe I overdid it a bit. Thanks for the heads up on how the glass disks looked. That was a really hard scene to shoot, and if I did it again I would shoot it differently. (But I didn't think I did too bad for my first ever video shoot).

Frank, Hmmm so you want a Harken Furler Adjustment Video...... I think we might be able to film one of those this month... (Assuming the filming comes out. Remember I am not a video cameraman, then you might look for one of those later in the summer.) Good ideas thanks for sharing them...

Thanks for the comments!
Guy

 

[Martin King]

I need to get a picture up of my boat where this exact "repair" was done
by a PO. You can read the cracks like a roadmap. This bulkhead on many
boats is under some degree of stress. There are often winches taking
halyard loads just above it. No need to tear up cabinetry or grind glass
inside the boat. You can do it all from the outside.

 

[u079721]

I was taught a combination sort of in between Guy's and Martin's methods. Cut disks of wood to fill the cabinetry voids up to but not including the laminate thickness, coat the edges with thickened epoxy, squeeze them in place flush with the inside surface, and layer over with glass from behind. After they cure then grind down the outer surface with the 12 to 1 ratio, and glass over as if it were a regular hull repair, sand smooth, and re-gel coat.

 

[rgraham]

I learned two things watching...

Hello Guy,
I liked the video and I learned two things
1) Use wax as a release agent.
2) Wet out the cloth first.
These two things are going to save a lot of frustration with future projects.
Thanks for the video.
Robert

 

[Sven]

Nice "first" video !

I agree the intro was way too busy. Not sure what value you wanted it to add or how you thought it would enhance the user experience (oh how I've learned to hate that PR language .

At the end I too had learned about the common hard wax as a release agent ... great to know.

I was also left wondering about a few things.

- Wouldn't you want the screws pretty close to the old hole edges to prevent squishing material onto the flat exterior surface (basically leaking) ?

- Why did you only use the micro-balloon (?) filler around the edges and not make a complete layer ... don't you risk mat punch-through if the mat is right up against the release agent and plastic ?

- Why was the mat marked with circles the same size as the hole but cut larger and wouldn't you make the first mat layer fit exactly in the hole ?

- Did you fill to the thickness of the surrounding fiberglass ? Didn't look like it.

- What do you fill the screw holes with ?

- Did you mean paint with "paint" or paint with gelcoat on the outside ?

Great work ! I'll use it over the next few weeks. I have to fill the old hole through the (cored) deck where the horizontal windlass dropped the chain down into the locker before I install the new vertical windlass. Can't copy your example completely but got a great intro.

Thanks,



-Sven