5432 exhaust elbow

[John Hines]

does anyone know where to get exhaust elbows for these engines? Mine has a Yanmar elbow someone put on there, but it doesn't have a part number on it so Yanmar parts dept won't help. The mechanics who have looked at the engine tell me it's too old and rickety to fix anymore but they can sell me a new Yanmar engine and put it in for me. My engine was built in 1982, it has about 2400 hours, starts well, runs fine, doesn't burn oil, it just heats up when you push the throttle up because of low seawater flow. The oberdorfer is pumping plenty water to the elbow, but you don't see much in the exhaust. The heat exchanger is clean, when I bought the boat 5 years ago this engine would push the boat to hull speed no problem without overheating. Lots of water in the exhaust then. just talked to guy who rebuilt his 1943 diesel, so I think probably mine can be saved. We are paying $7.00 a gallon for diesel in Grenada, so it would be good to have it running right.

 

[Loren Beach]

Which model # Yanmar does your boat have?

LB

 

[John Hines]

Morning Star engine

Hi, our boat has the original 1982 Universal 5432 engine, but sometime in the past someone put a Yanmar exhaust elbow on it. It was working fine when we bought it 5 years ago, but not so well now. We can run about 1500 rpm with no problem, but above that the engine starts heating over the thermostat setting which is 160 degrees. I see in the manual that it is supposed to run at 180. Our engine has never got that hot, so I don't think any damage is being done, but sometimes it would be nice to have more horsepower. The water coming out of the exhaust is steaming most of the time, so we are probably overheating the muffler and exhaust hose. Last year we replaced a piece of iron waterpipe that went between the exhaust hose and the gate valve that was rusted, I don't know who put that in there, but it was ready to bust off, which would put nothing but air between the gate valve and a exhaust hose that would be connected to nothing. If that wouldn't sink your boat I don't know what would. All nice bronze pipe and valve now. If we could get the correct elbow, it would give us our engine back.

 

[footrope]

John,

I had my elbow custom built. I think it is 2" inside diameter. It is stainless. The muffler, hoses, thru-hull and inline exhaust shutoff valve were all replaced with 2" at the time I had the elbow made. That is generally recommended by engine folks if you're going to overhaul an original 5432 exhaust system, which was 1-1/4 or 1-1/2 inch. The elbow I got was commissioned by the engine shop after consulting with me. The maker here in Seattle may be in a previous post. I would recommend the seawater port go on the left (looking at it from the threaded engine end) if that is feasible. The location shown here just about rides against the port engine compartment bulkhead. It works fine.

 

[John Hines]

Thanks

Thank you for the information, I think I can probably have an elbow made in Grenada. I'm getting tired of wandering around with the engine just above idle! John Hines, Morning Star

 

[rwthomas1]

I checked my spare parts and I have an elbow marked Westerbeke, same as the one on the 5432 in the boat, so I know that it works on a 5432. I cannot find a part number however. I can take a pic and post it if you like, it may help sourcing it. There is nothing wrong with a 5432, they are great engines and those are low hours. As long as the engine is in good condition, decent compression, starts easily, etc. repairing it will be much, much cheaper than replacing it. RT

 

[footrope]

Good luck, John. I guess I didn't realize you were "out there." It might be easier to get one that matches your current exhaust diameter rather than replace all that.

 

[Cory B]

Hi John,

We have a Yanmar exhaust elbow on our Universal 5424 as well. It burned out last summer, and I took it down to the local Yanmar/Universal dealer, and they instantly knew what it was, it was a common off the shelf part. It did require a "reverse threading" adapter, which they sold as well. Unfortunately I don't recall the part #, but I bet if you took a few pictures and measurements and found a helpful dealer (not Yanmar itself) they could mail the part down to you. I think it was about $120 with the adapter.

Good luck.

 

[Rocinante33]

John,

Did you look here;

http://shop.torresen.com/ships_stor...d=5171&name=Universal+Exhaust+Risers+&+Elbows

 

[rwthomas1]

Looking at the Torreson site, this one http://shop.torresen.com/ships_stor...e=EXHAUST+ELBOW+RISER+KIT+1.5&sectionid=10480 is the one on my 5432. Works well, FWIW. RT

 

[John Hines]

thanks guys

I checked my spare parts and I have an elbow marked Westerbeke, same as the one on the 5432 in the boat, so I know that it works on a 5432. I cannot find a part number however. I can take a pic and post it if you like, it may help sourcing it. There is nothing wrong with a 5432, they are great engines and those are low hours. As long as the engine is in good condition, decent compression, starts easily, etc. repairing it will be much, much cheaper than replacing it. RT

Thank you everyone for the encouragement, I'll check with Westerbeke, Torreson, and Yanmar. I've got more good information from the Ericson website in a few days than three years talking to mechanics.

 

[mherrcat]

Now that you have a part number and Torresen's price it would be worth checking with other Universal/Westerbeke dealers like TDC Equipment in Huntington Beach, CA to see if you can get a better price. I have found Torresen to be much like West Marine; always higher than most anyone else...

 

[Kuivato]

E38-200 M40 Exhaust Elbow & Why a raw water diversion hose?

I'm in the process of replacing the exhaust elbow on my 1988 38-200 which has a black iron riser with an injection tube similar to the stainless one shown in an earlier post. The stock Universal/Westerbeke exhaust elbow they now sell will not fit in the engine compartment of my 38 without cutting into the quarterberth and reconfiguring the Vetus muffler location and much more. BTW, does anyone have a diagram of the interior of the stock Universal exhast elbow. Looking at the unit it's hard to envision how the injection water enters on the discharge side of the elbow.

In any case, I purchased the 1.5" in-line injection fitting Moyer Marine sells for Atomic 4s which with some black steel fittings should do the trick and fit in the limited space Ericson provided in the engine compartment without having to cut the enclosure or reconfigure things.

On another note, on my boat there is a t-fitting with a small hose attached on the raw water discharge line leaving the heat exchanger hose rises up to the back siphon loop. This small hose continues to the transom and connects to the exhaust discharge thruhull fitting. Does anyone know what the intended purpose of this hose is? It would appear to be essentially diverting some raw water directly overboard instead of to the exhaust elbow. Why would one want to do this? Also, as the main raw water hose continues up to the backsiphon fitting, there is a valve in the line which would appear to shut off or control the raw water flow to the exhaust elbow. Why would you want to do this? Could it be someone's idea of how to prevent flooding the muffler if the engine isn't starting without a lot of cranking, instead of just closing the seawater intake seacock? Would this set up possibly explain the small diversion hose that goes to the exhaust thruhull; if the valve in the siphon loop were closed then at least some of the back pressure on the raw water pump would be releaved and this could be preferable than closing the intake seacock which could result in the sherwood pump sucking for water or being damaged? Seems like someone went through a lot of effort to set this system up.

I look forward to feed back

Tim

 

[Steuermann]

Sometimes in out of the way locations you can find talented people who can fabricate what you want for a reasonable price. I've welded together exhaust sytems and brazed in a lengh of tubing for water injection from what are commonly called "weld ells" or "butt-ells." They're commonly used to fabricate steel railings but they're cheap and can be gas welded or brazed by just about anyone, whereas stainless must be TIG or MIG welded, but only if you have argon shielding gas and someone who knows what they're doing. Here's one supplier. I don't suppose this will help you much in Grenada (I sailed there in 1976, by the way, almost didn't come home when I found out Jimmy Carter won the election), but you get the idea.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-elbows/=izqnfv

 

[Emerald]

You can make all sorts of stuff with standard plumbing fittings. Starting on this page, note the 180 degree bend, which can be very handy for making a riser up from the manifold and doing a loop down to the water injection using nipple of the appropriate lengths to connect the pieces:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#steel-pipe-fittings/=hb0953

and then here is a list of pieces to make a simple water injection I put together for a friend - in this instance he had a 1 1/4" exhaust and 5/8" water feed:

1 1/4" Wye part # 44605k356

1 1/4" X 3/4" Bushing part # 44605k622

3/4" X 5/8" Brass Barb part # 5346k91

 

[joemaak1]

Problems with Water Backflow..... Need Atomic 4 exhaused rised elbow

We recently had water intrusion into the carburetor through the back-flow of water from the exhaust system. Our atomic 4 just has a straight exhaust, no riser or loop. We want ton install a new riser elbow in the hope it would prevent the water intrusion. We have been looking, but so far, no luck. Any advice where to get this for the Atomic 4 exhaust manifold?

 

[Emerald]

It looks like you have an E-27, so check out what I did when repowering my prior E-27 some years ago. Here's a link to a page on it:

http://home.comcast.net/~ericson-yachts/A4/exhaust.html


Another route, that I might be more inclined to follow, is to deviate from the original riser in the port locker and install something like a Centek. Check this page of layouts:

http://www.centekindustries.com/install_diagrams.html

Scroll down for the section titled, "VERNALIFT below LWL"

and then even more detail:

http://www.centekindustries.com/vernaliftfig2.html

 

[joemaak1]

Fantastic Help. Thank you

Now this is probably one of the best help responses I ever got. Thanks a million. Providing the pics is worth a 1000 words.
Joe

 

[Afrakes]

Waterlift Muffler

Check out Moyer Marine. They make a nice stainless steel version. I rebuilt my carbon steel one two years ago. Not difficult if you have the tools. Al Frakes, Port Kent, NY

 

[thomthod]

I had the same problem with my Beta 20. I had a tube made up for $320 stainless from a fab guy near me. He also made me a 90 degree elbow at the bottom for $35. I had to use header wrap up to where the water came in from the heat exchanger. It now goes over the water line .



T


E29

Blooz Traveler