1978 E-34 hull repair

[valentor]

After the most recent of 'who knows how many' groundings over the last 26 years, I filed an insurance claim to help repair a 9 inch leaky crack in the hull of my 1978 E-34. The repair is going to be extensive - requiring removal of the floor and bulkhead and possibly the keel and engine. At the point that it is disassembled, I want to be certain that the repair is as sound as it can be.

My questions to the forum are:
What hidden issues does one face with such a repair?
Are there any recommendations for repairing and reinforcing the area of the hull in front of (and behind) the keel on these boats?
Is it best to repair the area with solid fiberglass, or should the repair be cored like the original hull?

Thanks in advance for any help and advice.


Steve

 

[Loren Beach]

I thought all the Ericsons in that vintage were solid layup hulls. Are you sure that it is cored?
As to fixing a "crack" you need to grind back the area on each side of the damage to a 12 or at least 8 to 1 slope and start laying in glass and resin. I would use epoxy, if I were doing it.

Sounds like *quite* a project!

:eek:

Best,
Loren in PDX

 

[CaptnNero]

Around Alone

This sounds reminiscent of Web Chiles' experience with an Ericson 35, Egregious. I think it was about a '75. He wrote a book ("Around Alone"?) about his experience sailing around the world alone in a new boat, setting a record of 202 days in '75-'76. One of the nastier and persistent issues was the hull splitting open under the area where the engine would have been mounted. He ordered Egregious without an engine as part of his solo circumnavigation plan. You see he didn't plan to stop much, so why would he need the dead weight of an engine?

In any case, his E-35 was trying to part on the seam in the middle behind the keel.

BTW - the book is a GREAT read. It is made of excerpts from his log, including his struggle to stay afloat by himself and keep the Ericson functioning.

I thought all the Ericsons in that vintage were solid layup hulls. Are you sure that it is cored?
As to fixing a "crack" you need to grind back the area on each side of the damage to a 12 or at least 8 to 1 slope and start laying in glass and resin. I would use epoxy, if I were doing it.

Sounds like *quite* a project!

:eek:

Best,
Loren in PDX