Recent content by mjn

Fantastic. This confirms things. While there is a mast port for the port side Spinnaker halyard, there is no line there. So we are replacing the starboard side Spinnaker Halyard. The one we are replacing is a 3/8" all rope line. I'm guessing the previous owner did not replace the masthead...

So since the previous owner is using a rope for the spinnaker halyard I'm guessing/hoping he swapped out the sheave in the masthead. We are also about due for a main halyard with the current one being rope+wire so maybe it's time to swap out the sheave for the main halyard and go to an all rope...

Thanks Tom. We never use the spinnaker (which feels like a sin) and the line I'm most concerned about is related to the spinnaker. It runs from the cockpit through a clutch, the deck mounted blocks, another block and the mast base, up inside the mast, and returns outside the fore side of the...

Is there a complete list of running rigging lines and some clear diagrams identifying them? I'm having trouble identifying the names of the lines entering the mast. One is especially worn entering the mast through the topmost hole (correct term?) on the starboard side.

So They're old and tired with the lines slipping. I don't see much in the way adjustment. Any rebuild kits out there? Are there ones that will bolt down to the same holes?

Well it turned out to be necessary to both unbolt the wooden bracket that holds the switch and remove the screws that attach the switch to the wooden bracket for anything to move. Lots of careful contortion and nimble fingers to keep from dropping the tiny nuts and washers into the abyss...

Anyone have a pic or a good description of how their batteries are held down? Our bracket is long gone and before I start cobbling something I thought I'd ask.

Yes if one is completely dead 'All' will not help. However if you have two batteries that are not "dead" but both have less charge than is required to start the engine, putting the switch in the 'All' position will combine their remaining capacity and may give you enough power to start the engine.

Looks like our selector switch has intermittent contacts and may need to be replaced. We removed the 4 screws around the circular periphery of the switch and removed the connections to the terminals. I had expected the switch to pull out from the front but it still seems hard fastened. The 4...

Thanks for this it's the most comprehensive explanation I've found. The reality of our day sailing usage is that the batteries get charged by the charger at the dock and the batteries are not drained much by other things on the boat. The amount of time we run the motor to get in and out of the...

So we are swapping in an Norco Genius GEN2 and I was looking for a full schematic of electrical system. Everything I've found only shows a singe battery and no the battery selector switch. I haven't rung it out but am thinking the ALL position puts the batteries in parallel. Seems switching it...

Thanks Don, So the crackle is the inner layer of the laminated glass then? If anyone has has more laminate glass windows cut or at least has the drawing for them. Please let me know. Also looking at it last weekend it looked like there were purely gaskets sealing the frame to the hull and the...

Ours is crackled and leaking. I was considering removing all those screws Cutting and scraping away as much sealant as possible Prying the port light frame loose removing the glazing from the frame Taking a sheet of cast acrylic with ??? thickness and cutting out new glazing patterned from the...

Are the sheaves in these blocks aluminum? I don't seem to be able to find this information on the web site.

Our Blocks are failing now so it's time to replace them. Current one is for the headsail halyard at the foot of the mast. Our Halyard is a wire type. Is there a list of specs for each block somewhere?