Rubrail replacement

Chris,

I am going with the Taco. I think there will be a single seam on each side as it comes in 12 and 20 foot lengths. I am just as happy to get rid of the end arrows that PSC supplied when I bought the new rub rail a few years ago because they were not anodized and have corroded.

With the painting and rebedding of the keel, it's going to be an expensive year.

Details

Geoff, agree on the one seam. Are you going with the solid Al extrusion or did you pick one with an insert. Given this weather I might just start on this, too.

BTW, I will also repaint cove and boot stripe (w/ Interlux Perfection) while I am at it.

rub rail insert only???

I'm gathering from your comments that the original railing is hard to find a replacement for. I need to replace the rubber insert only on my e-25. The railings are in great shape, but the insert is old and sun damaged. Are there any better sources for that? It looks like a pretty generic, shape.

OEM Rubrail for E-27 found at last

Success! At least for the E-27 the original replacement rubrail insert and extrusion can still be found at Wefco Manufacturing. The insert is 788 and the rail is 422G. The insert is $3.50/ft in white and $2.50/ft in black while the extrusion is $4.00/ft or $3.00/ft depending on color. The make it to order when you call. They also have a very good database and can probably tell you if they were the original manufacturer of any other Ericson models. Call Robin at 818.886.8872.

I am not affiliated with Wefco but do plan to order for my E-27 soon.

Ericson 38 Rub Rail Saga

I have also given up the search for the replacement rub rail or suitable alternative.

Tried calling PSC and asking for Bob Duck whom I spoke with last August, The receptionist said he was gone and the new guy would start in the next week. When I told her I was calling from Bangkok and really needed to speak with someone she passed the line to a man named Alberto who took down my email and phone number and promised to let me know if he could find out who was the original supplier. I followed that up with a fax copy of the invoice for the rub rail psc sold me in 2002 w/cc copy to the new Service Manager. Also sent F/U email to Alberto. Not even a courtesy reply. That's Service!?

Explored the Taco Marine route for awhile but they don't do custom and even when I gave them my companies DHL account did not seem to want to send me a couple of samples I requested because I thought they might work as an alternative.

So I am going with the obvious solution. I am having new port and starboard side rub rails custom made from solid teak by a Thai wood worker with all the equipment and tools to make a beautiful molding that will fit directly over the joint above the cove line. The stainless guy in the shop nearby will make custom end caps. When this job is finished I will post a picture of the results and tell you the cost. Maybe this will generate some export business for this man.

Rub Rail vs "none of the above"

I am sorry to have no pics to attach, but then perhaps there is little value to trying to show something that isn't there... (!)

About 3 years ago, I was wandering around a local boat yard dock area, and found myself trying to understand why the boat floating in front of me look so familiar and yet not...

I realized, after a minute, that it was a late model Ericson 34. But the factory aluminum "rub rail" was missing -- like it had never been there!

What happened, near as I know, is that the owner had the yard glass over the outside joint (the original rail on all these is cosmetic, as the hull and deck are already glassed together on the inside anyway, AFAIK) and then they painted the hull with LPU to perfectly match the shade of white that Ericson used. The upper cove stripe was restored perfectly.


It really changes the "look" of the boat.
As to whether it is OK to dispense with the virtues of a "rub rail" is a personal decision. The Ericson Olsons never had one, and neither did my previous two boats. Sometimes I almost wish it did... but not often.
"Fenders large, numerous, and often" is our mantra.

Just something to consider as your boat gets older and closer to needing a repaint... and the old rub rail needs a lot of restoring anyway.

Best,
Loren in Portland, OR

I removed my rub rail because it was leaking. Ground down the flange, filled and painted. No more leaks and I think it looks fine.

Rub rail replacement on a PSC Ericson 380

George,

Sorry to see my boat's sister get damaged. PSC used to have the aluminum extrusion for the rub rail. Not sure if they still have any of it left. Would you like me to give them a call, as I am much closer to them than you? How long a peice do you need? Do you want to replace the whole port side?

Tony Van Houweling
PSC E-380 Hull #16
San Diego

Teak or None of the above

Yes , I would agree. With the luck I had trying to find the original OEM for the PSC E38 Rub Rail, could be all E 38 owners will be deciding about not having one at all or installing a power boat rub rail from Taco. If I don't like the result of the teak, I'll be back to square one. Lets see...

As I am having my rubrail replaced, I checked with my yard about having it removed altogether. They replied that the rubrail helps to keep the fenders off the hull when rafting boats (when the fenders are set high) and otherwise protects the Awlgrip I am having applied from pilings and that it is much cheaper to replace rubrail than to repair blemished Awlgrip. Bottom line - reinstall the rubrail.

rub rail

I'm still pondering on what to do on my 72 e-27. This past season I took off the entire port side cleaned, sanded and resealed the whole edge then reinstalled the rail bedding it with 4200, portside not leaking but the old plastic is looking sad. I was thinking of a nice mohogony 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 with sainless trim----- any comments

Rub Rail for a 1971 E-35

I followed up Mark's (Annapolis E-27) lead at Wefco (www.wefcorubber.com). I found a profile for the plastic extrusion 422G in their online catologs but I couldn't find the rubber insert 788. I haven't given them a call yet as I want to get to the boat and compare a piece of the rail with the profile.
I have used Wefco before as a source for the rubber molding that fits in the port lights. That was a couple of years ago, but they would match any rubber extrusion if you would send them a sample. They only required a 25' minimum order.

Chuck
Annapolis Md.

For Geoff

Which one are you going with now? The Taco solid Al? That's where I am leaning. We looked around a bit more with other extrusion manufacturers. There is LOTS of stuff out there.

The yard has ordered the Taco. What else are you looking at?

BTW, the yard estimate (which the insurance company is is now pondering) comes to $21,000, plus another $5,000 to rebed the keel. However, I don't think the insurance company is going to pay for the latter because even though the keel crack grew from inches to 2/3rds the length of the keel because of the storm, the insurer's surveyor claims it is a 10 year maintenance item (it's been 10 years since the last rebedding).

Taco

Just to validate: There was one TACO extrusion that was solid Aluminum without insert. Somewhat asymmetrical but it fits fine with the 'longer' leg up. Correct? What are you using as end caps?

I was going to put a thin bead of 4200 along the top, thus sealing off any water. The bottom I'll leave open.

I surfed around for Aluminum Extrusion Trim Moulding etc. and found a ton of places. Many of them have large minimum order volumes. If you're happy with your solution I'll stop spending more time and go with the same.

Off topic: I put a note in the NorthEast Forum to see if folks are going down to Philadelphia for the show.

I am sure it's the solid one. My yard's pretty good about fixing things, but honestly I haven't seen a sample. The quote includes 2 20 foot sections and 2 12 foot sections with 4 end caps @ $625.

Good luck at the boat show. Philly is a little far for me, particularly since boat show crowds make me want to flee after 1/2 hour.

This thread is Deja Vu all over again for me!

As I read though this thread I am reminded of what I went through to replace my rub rail a couple of years ago. My 1982 E-36RH had a mahogony rub rail installed by the previous owner. It was crudely done, but from a distance it looked somewhat classy. Then, one day my club's launch came alongside and gently brushed against it. The starboard rubrail cracked and splintered into what looked like a tree stump after a tornado. As I went through the search for a replacement rail I wanted to have something that better lived up to the term "rub rail"; I wanted something that could be rubbed against. Ericson/Pacific Seacraft sent me some samples from what they were currently using on the 38, but because the 36 had a hull to deck joint with a half inch lip around the boat I needed something with a "U" shape. I checked out the TACO catalog but there was nothing there for my purpose. Then I discovered WEFCO (Wefco Rubber Mfg. Co., Inc. 21000 Osborne Street, Unit 2 Canoga Park, CA 91304.). They also didn't have specifically what I was looking for BUT!!!!!!, I sent them a sketch and they actually created a die and extruded about 80 feet of a medium soft rubber rail for me. It wasn't as expensive as either TACO or Ericson. They made it in white, but they also could have made it in black. I have about fifteen feet of it left over. I am very glad I found that place. The rail is holding up nicely.


Steve Schwartz
E36-RH "Glory Days"

Chris, I went down to the yard and looked at a sample of the Taco. I like it it a lot. The profile is simpler than the Ericson profile and it is much more substantial, maybe 1/8" stock.

rubrail

another source of rubrail similar to taco is rubrails.com; i asked them each for a sample to see which will fit best over the joint. rubrails.com appears to be a little cheaper than taco (that is, lower priced)

picture?

Geoff,

I wonder if you can snap a quick picture of what you are putting on? Or the TACO number? Your description matches what I think it is but it is good to verify.

Thanks a bunch.
Chris