wiring

fullandby

Junior Member
So, I thought I would share what I have done with the boat to ready it for the this season. After having various electrical issues, which I expected for a 30yo boat with numerous POs with little knowledge and lazy approaches, I completely rewired the engine, strung new wire in the mast,made a new instrument panel and replaced all the switches and fuse holders on the power panel. I thought I could use the one wire that goes from the key switch to the starter but when I pulled the harness out I found there were two splices in that wire! So here are some pictures of what I have done. I forgot to get a picture of the instrument panel but will post one when I get one. The white plastic is mounted aft of the power panel on some long screws that hold the panel in place. I think it protects the panel as well as makes a handy place to make connections. For the mast wire connections to the steaming and anchor light used an RV connector.

http://pollak.thomasnet.com/viewitems/connectors/rv-connectors-heavy-duty-adaptors

I liked it because it has a lot of surface area for the contacts, the connections accept terminals and the two parts lock together. It was also inexpensive. Stepping the mast was reduced to plug and tuck for the wiring.

Also, I have included a picture of the wiring that was removed. The boat seems faster now with all that weight removed! It is amazing how much lamp cord weighs. The first picture is of the panel prior to reconstruction.
 
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Vagabond39

Member III
Wireing

fullandby:
Splices are bad news! Crimp splices are even worse, as are those plastic automotive conectors. A good soldered splice covered with good heatshrink will last in an unfriendly enviroment for years. Scotch 23 Self vulcanizng tape is good. Scotch 33 Vinal tape for a protective outer layer helps.
Around an engine, the enemies are heat, viberation, and various liquids. Distance from the heat helps, where possible.

If the situation is really bad, apply Scotchkote waterproof insulating glue then tape. I have used that combo on damaged wires and splices for underwater work.

I have seen a few RATS NESTS like that.
 

mherrcat

Contributing Partner
Seems like I just read a thread somewhere about how soldered connections are not as good as crimped connections in a marine environment. Maybe it was on SailNet...
 

Vagabond39

Member III
Soldered connections

Seems like I just read a thread somewhere about how soldered connections are not as good as crimped connections in a marine environment. Maybe it was on SailNet...
The rules for a good connection are.
1. Make sure the wire is stripped of all insulation, clean and free of any corrusion. For Old wireing, that is a problem.
2. Make a good mechanical connection. Wrap the end of one wire around the other. then wrap the second wire end around the first wire.
3. Ensure you are using rosin core electrical solder. If you do not know, it may be ACID core pluming solder, and will destroy conductivity.
4. Heat the wires until the wires are hot enough to melt the solder.
5. Hold the wires steady until the solder cools and solidifies.
There are a lot of good crimp connectors, and using the proper one will make a good connection. If it is too large or too small, IXNAY!
A crimp connector is bulker than a soldered connection.
 
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