Will it eventually come loose (packing gland nut)

[Mikebat]

I have been trying since this weekend to loose the packing gland locknut, so I can tighten the packing gland and stop the drip from the shaft. Both the locknut and the gland nut are covered in green corrosion, as are the exposed threads. If it's ever been adjusted, it has been a very long time since the last one. I have soaked the thing repeatedly in WD-40 starting this weekend, and used a wire brush to clear the green stuff from the threads and exposed metal, but still cannot budge it.

I've seen a can of stuff at West Marine that claims to freeze and crack the rust through thermal effects, by evaporating the propellant I'd guess, but I wonder whether subjecting the packing gland to thermal stress while the boat is in the water is a good idea.

There's some other stuff I have which contains phosphoric acid which I haven't used yet, and it is also supposed to be for penetrating corrosion between fittings. Is that going to harm the bronze packing gland fittings?

Any other ideas for loosening my locknut and gland nut so I can stop the drip?

 

[Emerald]

I would try some Kroil:

http://www.kanolabs.com/

http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

A couple questions though. How much is the drip and do you plan on hauling out anytime soon? If you get into a situation where it's taking a lot of force to break it free, I'd be inclined to wait for haul out. Just wouldn't want something to let go leaving you with a gusher. If you do go for it in the water, with the shaft in place, you wouldn't be able to drive a plug in. It might be worth having a couple wax toilet seal rings on hand, some plastic, towels etc.

 

[Mikebat]

The drip is enough to make the bilge pump run every day. It's a fairly steady drip-drip-drip-drip, 1-2 drops every second. I don't plan to haul out any time soon since I just did two months ago, but if necessary, I guess I'll have to.

 

[Martin King]

Mike,
Let's start at square one. What kind of wrenches are you using.
Are you turning them so that the nut loosens? (I have to ask, sorry).

I'm afraid that penetrating oils and the like won't help you here. Possibly
heat will help. Usually what is needed is leverage. I keep a pair of
large channel locks handy for breaking loose stuff like this. One on
the stuffing box to prevent it from turning, the other on the nut.
West sells an adjustable packing nut wrench, but you will probably
need to rig a cheater pipe over the handle to acheive the necessary
torque.

 

[larossa]

Packing Gland Nut

Mike,

You might want to try a different penatrating solution to break the nut loose. I've had great success with PB Blaster. You can find it at most auto parts store. I read about it in Practical Sailor, it really works. I don't think that WD -40 is the best for breaking parts loose.

Good Luck,

Brian Walter
E31 C
Nemo

 

[Maine Sail]

The nuts...

The nuts must turn in opposite directions. WD40 is not a true penetration oil and it's a poor excuse for lubricating as well. As others have said use PB Blaster or Kroil. Be very, very careful to NOT get ANY penetrating oil on or near the output shaft seal for the transmission. It will eat the seal and you'll need a tranny re-build within 24 hours..

Use big enough wrenches and NOT pliers..

The Nuts:

 

[Mikebat]

West sells an adjustable packing nut wrench, but you will probably need to rig a cheater pipe over the handle to acheive the necessary
torque.

I got two of those packing nut wrenches for this job. I couldn't get a good grip with channel locks. I have a pipe wrench but it doesn't open wide enough. Pipe extensions are the next thing to try. It's really cramped in there, though. I am holding the wrench on the gland nut steady while trying to turn the lock nut to loosen it.

I'll try one of those penetrants, PB Blaster or Kroil, too. Thanks for all the suggestions. Last time I had to tighten a packing gland nut was over 20 years ago, when I was a machinist's mate in the USN.

 

[Glyn Judson]

Packing nut wrenches.

Mike, I hope Main Sail's excellent illustration of the plated packing wrench available at West Marine and the ones you bought will work for you. My experience with them was dismal at best. They're made of the poorest of materials and I found that they didn't live up to my standards of a good tool for the job. Sadly West Marine doesn't seem to carry another better one as can be seen in the first illustration here: http://www.vintagesteamproducts.com/body_section9.html They worked well for me and I wish I knew where in the heck I stowed them. I'm sure they're in a "safe place" somewhere and I'll probably find them some day when cleaning out the boat prior to selling it, NOT. I have barely enough space to use a pair of large Channel Lok's that work OK but for the limited space in which to swing them. Some day on down the road you might want to consider getting a pair like those #245 wrenches above. I like the pipe extension trick and seem to remember doing that back in my teen hot rodding days but for the life of my, can't remember where. Mental pause I guess. Good luck and please keep us all posted with your success, Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey, CA

 

[Tom Metzger]

Why would anyone go to West Marine for tools? Go to a hardware store, Lowes, or Home Depot. Non-boaters have to turn large nuts also. Look in the plumbing and tool departments.

 

[u079721]

Get the RIGHT tool for this job

After struggling with channel locks and those cheaply made packing nut pliers that everyone sells, I finally broke down and bought the right tool for this job some years ago - Thin-Head Short-Handle Wrenches.

First measure the exact size of the nuts on your packing gland (which are probably both the same). Then go to http://www.mcmaster.com/ , and search on

30° Angle Thin-Head Short-Handle Wrenches


They have them in all sizes up to 2 9/16", so you should be able to get the exact size you need. It makes a world of difference to have a perfect fit non-adjustable wrench for this job. In my case the working space was pretty tight, so I cut the handles down so they would better fit in the confined space. Highly recommended. (And remember to buy two!)

 

[Gumdoc]

Did you ever have success?

I got two of those packing nut wrenches for this job. I couldn't get a good grip with channel locks. I have a pipe wrench but it doesn't open wide enough. Pipe extensions are the next thing to try. It's really cramped in there, though. I am holding the wrench on the gland nut steady while trying to turn the lock nut to loosen it.

I'll try one of those penetrants, PB Blaster or Kroil, too. Thanks for all the suggestions. Last time I had to tighten a packing gland nut was over 20 years ago, when I was a machinist's mate in the USN.

Mike, it has been three years. since your thread. I am currently having the very save problem and have tried the solutions mentioned. Did you have success? I have not. I may need to have my Ericson 32 hauled and have the packing gland professionally replaced. JRR

 

[Glyn Judson]

Unbudging that darned nut.

JRR, You didn't say if there was corrosion on the threads in the form of green oxide, that stuff can clog up the threads something awful. If you carefully pour a 50/50 mix of muriatic acid and water directly to the bronze stuffing box threads, it'll dissolve the corrosion. After flushing it thoroughly with fresh water, then try the PB Blaster, Kroil, Liquid Wrench or whatever. My guess is that you'll have success then. CAUTION: DO NOT INHALE THE VAPORS OF THE 50/50 MIX, IT'S NASTY STUFF AND CAN DO GREAT HARM IN AN UNVENTILATED SPACE. USE A SMALL FAN IN THE AREA WHEN USING IT, THEN THE THE HECK OUT OF THERE AS FAST AS YOU CAN. Allow the smoke to clear so to speak, then venture in very cautiously to apply the penetrating oil. Please don't let what I just said scare you away from mixing and applying this very useful acid solution, just use common sense and you'll be fine. For years I've done the very thing I'm suggesting and use it on occasion in the head through the toilet bowl to clean out mineral deposits and am ALWAYS very cautious about not inhaling the vapors. You can get the acid at any big box store in the swimming pool supply section. Here's a link to it at Home Depot http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...H+ALL&langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 Cheers, Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey, CA

 

[Gumdoc]

Glyn, Thank you for taking the time to pen a response. Yesterday, after a whole day of soaking the gland in PB Blaster, I got back in there and srubbed the packing gland and locknut with a brass brush. Then I resprayed and redressed with cotton and sprayed again. Today, under severe contortion, I was able to get two channel lock pliers on the gland and nut and separate them. Before, there was a continual stream of water. After tightening the packing gland two full turns the drip rate is two per minute, maybe a bit less. I ran the boat today at full throttle for over two hours. Engine temperature was great, only 160 with ambient air at 80. I then got back down in my lazzarette and put my hand on the packing gland. It was cold. I consider this a great success. As per previous links, the PB Blaster penetrating oil worked.

I have used muriatic acid a few times before. A couple of times to clean grout in the house and twice to clean my concrete driveway before painting it. It's some pretty strong stuff. I remember back in the sixties there was a wheel "mag" cleaning product. It was a very dilute muriatic acid. It really cleaned the "mags" pretty well. I think today it would destroy a good automotive wheel.

Best Regards, John Rech

 

[mherrcat]

Those thin-head wrenches are just what I need.
Going to measure my stuffing box nuts this weekend and order a pair. Fortunately when I remove the exhaust hose between the riser and the muffler I have a fair amount of space to work in to loosen/tighten the nuts, so the standard length wrenches might work fine for me.

 

[5 O'Clock]

Another trick

I know this is an old thread, but for those who, like I found this very helpful information, I offer a suggestion.

After trying for an hour to losen the smaller jam nut, I was surprised to find that the packing nut backed off easily, I was then able to move the jam nut, tighten the packing nut and then tighten the jam nut. Leak stopped. And actually, once I had things moving it was all by hand.