What size washer for Yacht Specialties Wheel nut? [Play in Wheel]
- Thread starter Geoff W.
- Start date
GrandpaSteve
Sustaining Member
Just a data point - mine does not use a washer.
Play--loose steering--would be likely cable tension.
If you mean the nut won't stay tight, that is often the failure of the spring clip on the wheel axle. The spring clip can be backed up with a hose clamp so the nut can be tightened against it. I am an expert on this issue because I bought a giant lock washer to go under the YS nut before I realized what the problem actually was.
If you mean the nut won't stay tight, that is often the failure of the spring clip on the wheel axle. The spring clip can be backed up with a hose clamp so the nut can be tightened against it. I am an expert on this issue because I bought a giant lock washer to go under the YS nut before I realized what the problem actually was.
Baslin
Member III
Does your wheel have play "in and out" ??? Or does it have play like Christian mentioned while turning left or right?
Our 1983 E38 with the YS pedestal has a drift pin installed into the steering shaft chain sprocket. The pin actually came out on on of our passages and it causes the steering wheel to have excessive play in and out. It has so much play that the sprocket jammed against the wheel brake assembly and we were unable to steer the boat for about 10 minutes until I figured out what was going on.
Our 1983 E38 with the YS pedestal has a drift pin installed into the steering shaft chain sprocket. The pin actually came out on on of our passages and it causes the steering wheel to have excessive play in and out. It has so much play that the sprocket jammed against the wheel brake assembly and we were unable to steer the boat for about 10 minutes until I figured out what was going on.
It is a quick fix. The cables are adjustable at the quadrant connection, all you need is a couple of wrenches. I just got the boat back after dropping the rudder and the yard had too much tension on the cables, steering was stiff. I loosened by about 3/4 inch.
Steering cable adjustment may be necessary from time to time, and the goal is easy steering without "too much" play. The theoretical deflection of the cables is 1" per foot, or so I've always been told. Loose is better than tight, which wears out the sheave bearings.
If you suspect the drift/roll pin issue Baslin mentions, that means disassembly of the pedestal (unlikely , I hope). See Photo #12 here.
Steering cable adjustment may be necessary from time to time, and the goal is easy steering without "too much" play. The theoretical deflection of the cables is 1" per foot, or so I've always been told. Loose is better than tight, which wears out the sheave bearings.
If you suspect the drift/roll pin issue Baslin mentions, that means disassembly of the pedestal (unlikely , I hope). See Photo #12 here.
It’s definitely left-right play, not fore-aft. I suspected the nut because I can hold the main nut and wiggle the wheel a half inch or so in either direction without the nut spinning. I thought I’d read some posts here about how folks over enthusiastically tighten the big nut to prevent it. I’ll do some boat yoga and check the cable tightness
Since the nut is loose, check for the circlip issue first.
Note also that when the wheel is pulled off, a key is revealed on the wheel axle. The keyways on wheel hub and axle should not be distorted and the key should fit snug. It's the key that keeps the wheel snug on the axle, the nut just holds things together. A new key may be what you need.
Note also that when the wheel is pulled off, a key is revealed on the wheel axle. The keyways on wheel hub and axle should not be distorted and the key should fit snug. It's the key that keeps the wheel snug on the axle, the nut just holds things together. A new key may be what you need.