jgarmin098
Member II
The water heater (Atwood) on my '88 32-3 is near the end of it's useful life. What advice can anyone provided regarding what brand to replace it with and what I should expect during the removal/install process?
Water Heater Replacement '88 E32-3
- Thread starter jgarmin098
- Start date
Several years ago I replaced our factory water heater when the outer shell was getting badly corroded. I went with an Atlantic brand. Foam insulation, and the inner tank is SS, and so is the shell. One suggestion I would make is to avoid any brand with an inner tank made of aluminum -- it corrodes and puts some powdery oxidation into the water system. Ick.
One other observation - stick with the factory 6 gallon size. I was trying to make the re-install go easier (and did indeed do this) by going with the 4 gallon size. It heats very quick, but due to incoming cool-water-dilution the internal temp drops noticeably faster when drawing it down, compared to the old 6 gallon tank. It's no big deal for us since we do not shower aboard (inside) anyway, but it would be a limiting factor if we did...
This advice worth about what you are paying, especially in US $.
Cheers,
Loren
One other observation - stick with the factory 6 gallon size. I was trying to make the re-install go easier (and did indeed do this) by going with the 4 gallon size. It heats very quick, but due to incoming cool-water-dilution the internal temp drops noticeably faster when drawing it down, compared to the old 6 gallon tank. It's no big deal for us since we do not shower aboard (inside) anyway, but it would be a limiting factor if we did...
This advice worth about what you are paying, especially in US $.
Cheers,
Loren
jgarmin098
Member II
So why wouldn't I just replace it with the exact same make and model (Atwood) that lasted for the past 20 years?
Tank: same or different?
Short answer is "yes"... with the caveat that a lot more than the tank goes bad in 20 years. When we did ours, the hoses that connected the tank into the coolant circuit were starting to crack from heat and time and were slightly swelled where they were clamped onto the tank. That's a significant purchase of 5/8" hose right there.
Then, the factory AC wire run to the heater element needed updating to the modern tinned wire (ours was Ancor Boatcable, but not tinned). Also, some of the water supply fittings in that area were due for upgrade -- in general, some of these fittings may not respond well to being wrenched on, disconnected and moved around...
I used that tank replacement project and required opening/draining of the coolant system as a good (and overdue) excuse to replace all the engine coolant hoses and put new coolant in the diesel.
Not your situation, but we had already decided to install a Heatercraft brand fan heater unit in the boat's interior and run that hose loop in series with the water heater tank, so I was combining projects. And then, once you open up the system, you might as well put in a thermostat, etc etc...
I do agree about the attraction of using the same make/model tank, but note that technology may have improved a lot in 20 years and newer designs may be worth your time to epoxy in the old mounting holes and redrill. :nerd:
As to having the aluminum inner tank, quite a bit of gritty oxide poured out with the last of the water when we emptied it, after removal from the boat.
Whatever you do, try to post up some project pics.
As Red Green would say: "We're all pullin' for ya."
Regards,
Loren
Short answer is "yes"... with the caveat that a lot more than the tank goes bad in 20 years. When we did ours, the hoses that connected the tank into the coolant circuit were starting to crack from heat and time and were slightly swelled where they were clamped onto the tank. That's a significant purchase of 5/8" hose right there.
Then, the factory AC wire run to the heater element needed updating to the modern tinned wire (ours was Ancor Boatcable, but not tinned). Also, some of the water supply fittings in that area were due for upgrade -- in general, some of these fittings may not respond well to being wrenched on, disconnected and moved around...
I used that tank replacement project and required opening/draining of the coolant system as a good (and overdue) excuse to replace all the engine coolant hoses and put new coolant in the diesel.
Not your situation, but we had already decided to install a Heatercraft brand fan heater unit in the boat's interior and run that hose loop in series with the water heater tank, so I was combining projects. And then, once you open up the system, you might as well put in a thermostat, etc etc...
I do agree about the attraction of using the same make/model tank, but note that technology may have improved a lot in 20 years and newer designs may be worth your time to epoxy in the old mounting holes and redrill. :nerd:
As to having the aluminum inner tank, quite a bit of gritty oxide poured out with the last of the water when we emptied it, after removal from the boat.
Whatever you do, try to post up some project pics.
As Red Green would say: "We're all pullin' for ya."
Regards,
Loren
Tom Metzger
Sustaining Partner
I like the old unit.
After twenty years I was happy with the low price spread. BTW, the Attwood tank is now Seaward Products.
I don't need water to stay hot for three days. I really have no idea how long the water stays hot in my tank. I never go three days away from the dock without using the hot water or running the engine.
After twenty years I was happy with the low price spread. BTW, the Attwood tank is now Seaward Products.
I don't need water to stay hot for three days. I really have no idea how long the water stays hot in my tank. I never go three days away from the dock without using the hot water or running the engine.
jgarmin098
Member II
So, I'm guessing you were able to haul that old Attwood out of your 32-3 so you could replace it with the isotemp. How did the removal go for you?
Justin Lee
Moderator
Isotemp
I did the Isotemp thing myself...very happy with the result! I will say that I had to cut the hatch opening wider to get the old unit out...bring a sawzall!
I did the Isotemp thing myself...very happy with the result! I will say that I had to cut the hatch opening wider to get the old unit out...bring a sawzall!
Dan Callen
Contributing Member III
Isotherm
What size Isotherm did you put in the Ericson 32-3? Dan Callen
What size Isotherm did you put in the Ericson 32-3? Dan Callen
Justin Lee
Moderator
I went for the Slim Square one...model #IT-SS-16-110. It takes up MUCH less room than the old round one & was a cinch to mount/install. It only holds 4.2 gal but that is more than I ever need. This unit was also easier to get into the hatch & work on than that old round job! I highly recommend this one!
exoduse35
Sustaining Member
My 35-2 has never had a water heater and it is on the list. I was thinking of placing it behind the backrest of the port settee. it looks like the perfect out of the way place that is hard to make use of any other way and is close to the engine without taking up easier to get to space. the only drawback I see is that it will rest on the side of the hull above the waterline and may on time mar the outer finish in some way from the heat.does anyone have thought pro or con of such an idea? is it brilliance or foolish? the inexperienced minds want to know. thanks in advance, Edd