Wanted: Ericson 25 bow end cap
- Thread starter BonTiki
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- ericson 25
I did a site search for bow caps, and found one thread. I believe that there are others.
ericsonyachts.org
The question comes up regularly.
What I do not know is whether anyone will make up some new ones. If anyone were to wrap their present one with plastic cling wrap and make a mold of it, it seems like that could then be used to mold out new ones in frp. And, then paint them.
It would be tempting to try it on a 3D printer, but you'd have to use a plastic that was truly UV resistant.
edit: found another thread.
ericsonyachts.org
Bow caps again....I know..
OK, I've now whined about this bow cap thing until everybody is sick of hearing it, so now a more proactive approach. I was noticing on Todd's blog earlier about the thing, and took note that it looks like cast aluminum, and we all know what generally happens to that method of construction in...
What I do not know is whether anyone will make up some new ones. If anyone were to wrap their present one with plastic cling wrap and make a mold of it, it seems like that could then be used to mold out new ones in frp. And, then paint them.
It would be tempting to try it on a 3D printer, but you'd have to use a plastic that was truly UV resistant.
edit: found another thread.
Wanted - Bow Cap for 1978 E-27
I am looking for a "bow cap" (not sure of term-photo attached) for a 1968 E-27. Mine was smashed by by the marina while launching another boat. I don't even know when to begin looking for this part (or a way to have one made). All advice is appreciated. James
will let you know how it goes. Thanks
None of my business, really, but I'd probably give up on the wraparound and adapt the typical "arrowhead" solution other boats use.
I would carve a suitable cosmetic rubrail-end out of soft wood, then reproduce two of them in thickened epoxy in a plaster of Paris mold.
The chainplate would remain bare. The deck joint showing on either side could be ground clean and faired, then touched up with gel coat.
I would carve a suitable cosmetic rubrail-end out of soft wood, then reproduce two of them in thickened epoxy in a plaster of Paris mold.
The chainplate would remain bare. The deck joint showing on either side could be ground clean and faired, then touched up with gel coat.
BonTiki
Junior Member
Hey thanks Christian / that would not only be an easy solution but I like the idea of leaving the chain plate "in the open" / there is a suspect screw in it.
tenders
Innocent Bystander
There appear to be two designs of these caps. One is a single cast vee, and the angle of the vee arms and their length vary by boat model. (I found this out the hard way.) The other, more sensible, is two half-vees that can be separately attached and with an intersection that can be either caulked or faired over so that an imperfect joining angle isn't evident.
There are several ways of fabricating these too. One way, described in an old issue of Good Old Boat, is to find a length of plastic pipe, fill it with oven-heated sand, cap it, and bend it to fit. (The sand keeps the hot pipe from kinking.) Once it's bent, you let it cool, dump out the sand, cut it in half, and use the outer half as the replacement cap. Another way would be to cut slices of PVC pipe with two arms of the vee on the sides, joined by a perpendicular vee arm, with intersecting angles considered as you might with crown molding.
My boat started with the first design, and it disappeared one season. I never got my act together to do fabrication method #1, and I somehow mismeasured the angles with my first attempt at fabrication method #2. (I don't know why; I think it could have been done with all 45 degree cuts.) A couple of years ago some salvor crossed my path having the second design, so I bought it. If one of the two halves gets knocked off, my master plan is to make a mold from the second half and refabricate both halves.
The aft ends of the rubrails use something similar to the "arrowhead" end-cap design.
There are several ways of fabricating these too. One way, described in an old issue of Good Old Boat, is to find a length of plastic pipe, fill it with oven-heated sand, cap it, and bend it to fit. (The sand keeps the hot pipe from kinking.) Once it's bent, you let it cool, dump out the sand, cut it in half, and use the outer half as the replacement cap. Another way would be to cut slices of PVC pipe with two arms of the vee on the sides, joined by a perpendicular vee arm, with intersecting angles considered as you might with crown molding.
My boat started with the first design, and it disappeared one season. I never got my act together to do fabrication method #1, and I somehow mismeasured the angles with my first attempt at fabrication method #2. (I don't know why; I think it could have been done with all 45 degree cuts.) A couple of years ago some salvor crossed my path having the second design, so I bought it. If one of the two halves gets knocked off, my master plan is to make a mold from the second half and refabricate both halves.
The aft ends of the rubrails use something similar to the "arrowhead" end-cap design.