These are some of the changes I've made that work for me but may not for all. Everyone is different but here's my logic.
Electical:
Issue
My AC panel was located underneath the sink in the galley on my '84 (AC power, under a water source...not a fan). Additionally the shore power connection was in the cockpit just left of the wheel. I found this to be in the way.
Resolution
While redoing the DC panel I put in a new AC panel next to it. Still actually finishing some of this as we speak so I can post some pics when I'm done. (It's 17 degrees here now though so that may take a while, haha). I am moving the AC shore power connection just above it, outside of the cockpit.
Issue
Wanted to be able to manage my nav lights from the cockpit.
Resolution
After removing the shore power connection to the left of the wheel, next to the manual bilge pump, I had a hole to fill. I mounted a small waterproof panel to control my running, anchor, steaming, and deck lights. This panel is a sub panel to the main DC panel. This not only allows me to control my lights from the cockpit but also frees up some space of the main DC panel.
Plumbing:
Issue
The cockpit drains are connected to through hulls, below the waterline. Though these have valves, they cannot be closed when leaving the boat as the cockpit would fill with water in rain. The starboard drain ran to a through hull located underneath the aft quarter berth, under a cushion, under a cover that required a flat head screwdriver to remove. I wouldn't consider that to be readily available. The post-side drain ran to a through hull that is T'd to include the drain for the galley sink.
Resolution
I removed the though hull on starboard, glassed over, faired, sealed, etc.
The galley sink drain I still have connected to the through on port, but that's it and is easily reached though the cabinet door under the sink. I can close the sink drain when away from the boat.
I added through hulls just above the water line (just below the boot stripe) for the cockpit drains. I have cruised, raced, and even moored my boat through some hurricane weather without any issues. All while being allowed to close every though hull in my boat.
Issue
Shower sump was controlled by a diverter valve between it and the bilge. I really don't like showering in the boat. It has its issues (moisture, mold, smells) and one drawback of our boat is the head is SMALL. For my use of the boat I really don't use the shower in the head. I (and my wife included believe it or not) am just as happy with the Sun Shower on the foredeck. We are both tall, me 6' and her 5'9' so that is just better for us (and I emphasize FOR US) This may not work for others.
Resolution
Remove the shower sump. Cover and finish with a nice piece of teak and holly. A sink is all we need in there.
Recommendations:
You use hot water? We don't. The Universal M18 and 5416 (depending on what yours came with) I slightly underpowered. I found the water heater to cause a bit of drag on the cooling system and once removed, the motor seemed much happier. This also makes maintenance much easier. Our port lazarette is a dumpster (lots of space) but my water heater (a 6 gal. Seaward) was right behind the motor not only making maintenance (secondary fuel filter specifically) difficult but also made access to the packing nut virtually impossible which I found to be a bit dangerous. If you must have hot water I would suggest Isotemp's tiny 4 gal slim square model as that could fit underneath the quarter berth.
Feathering 2-blade prop. What a difference!!!
Not folding though. Folding props are fine but lets remember that "we" have an already underpowered motor and I like to maximize as much thrust as possible.
If you don't have any autopilot, get it. Great for those long legs cruising. Not the fastest way to sail but when cruising you may have more important tasks than speed.
-Chris
