Varnishing technique

[treilley]

What is the best way to varnish the 6 sides of a cube? If you lay down 1 coat on all six sides you risk having runs and drips. Do you mask the edges and only varnish the horizontal surface? Is it a question of thinning? I read somewhere not to thin.

Any help here would be appreciated. I just bought an unfinished drop leaf Edson cockpit table and want it to look half as good as Martin's work. Fortunately it will be covered with my binacle cover most of the time.

 

[tadslc]

I would try inserting a screw in an inconspicuous (or existing) spot and hang it up.

 

[Martin King]

If you are starting with bare wood, I think you get a faster build if
the table is blocked up on a bench horizontally. You can be more
generous with the coats, and do the top and bottom on alternate
days. Watch out for drips that want to collect at the corners
underneath. For table tops, the ultimate top coat is a 2 part clear
urethane either sprayed or brushed.

Martin

 

[treilley]

Thanks Martin. What is a good product for build coats? I need to do some sanding to smooth the wood a little but the wood has some deep grain. Do you recommend wet sanding with tung oil to help fill the grain?

What brand products do you use? Can the 2 part urethane clear be buffed?

 

[Martin King]

Tim,

For bright finished wood that will live outside, I am liking the Smiths
CPES as a sealer (2-3 coats). For the build coats, I've tried many brands,
including Ephiphanes, Interlux Schooner, Z-Spar Captains, Pratt & Lambert Vitralite R-7, Detco's Crystal etc. About the only stuff I havn't used to
date is the Stoppani-the stuff they use on Rivas. I hesitate to recommend
any one brand as you can get good results with any of these. It's
really more about prep and technique as I see it. For topcoating, I
like and use Sterling clear, but all the major manufacturers have a
2 part urethane now. I especially like it for surfaces like table tops
that are going to really see some abuse. Without question, it's far
more abrasion resistant than a tung oil varnish.

Martin

 

[tenders]

> I am liking the Smiths CPES as a sealer (2-3 coats)

Martin, what exactly do you mean by this? Do you apply the CPES and allow it to cure, three times, or do you apply2-3 coats on top of each other over the course of a few hours?

 

[Martin King]

Usually it's applied over a few days by brush. The first application is
applied and allowed to cure overnight. This is usually followed by a
light sanding to remove the dust and bugs. The following coats are
applied attempting to fill the grain and seal the wood. When it
no longer soaks in and shows as glossy, then varnishing over can
begin. The build coats are usually started before the last coat of
the cpes has cured completely, hopefully providing a strong bond/tie
coat to the wood.

Martin

http://http://www.smithandcompany.org/varnishpriming.html

 

[Lucky Dog]

Less is more

Try a thin board with three dry wall screws put all way through so the only points of the screws hold up your six sided box.

Light as possible coats of finish as possible. Use a trouble light to see holidays.

ml