Upgraded Halyards

CSMcKillip

CSMcKillip

Moderator
Moderator
We are needing to replace the main halyard, 54 ft wire with 64 ft of line, has anyone just replaced the whole halyard with a low stretch line like v100? If we do the upgrade do I need to replace the block at the top of the mast because of the sheave?

Thanks
 
E

Emerald

Moderator
Going to all rope low stretch material halyards is very common and would be the direction I'd go in. The sheaves on my prior E-27 and what are on Emerald started life with rope->wire spliced halyards and the original sheaves in both cases handled all rope halyards just fine. I would highly recommend upgraded the sheaves at some point to roller ball bearing versus the original bush type bearing. It really makes the last several feet easier. I've done it on my main on Emerald, and if I didn't have roller furling, it would be tops on the list for the staysail and yankee halyards as well.
 
Loren Beach

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
T-900, 5/16"

This kinda of harks back to several earlier threads, but it's OK to rinse and repeat... ;)

We changed out all the old wire to rope halyards about a decade ago. I tried 3/8" and it worked, but was dragging thru the cheek sides at the masthead sheaves. Best size turned out to be 5/16". With a strength rating of around 7K pounds, the only real issue was whether it would hold in our clutch stoppers. (It does.)
As to handling, it certainly is at the lower end of thin. But then, when sailing I normally use open finger leather gloves anyhow.

Our Kenyon spar and sheave box fittings are probably similar or the same as the stuff on an E-33.

My .02 worth, and YMMV.
:rolleyes:

Loren
 
Loren Beach

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
More Halyard notes

More halyard notes:
________
Loren:
Looks like I forgot my log in -- again. If you want, you can post my comments as follows:

The first change I made to our E33 when we acquired it in '93 was to get rid of the wire halyards - had the rigger replace the main halyard with 7/16th line (unknown brand).
Just last fall I pulled the old halyard and replaced it with 7/16th Sta-Set X. I also had the masthead block replaced with a Harken bearing block several year ago. Another great improvement was the installation of a "Strong Trak" system and "E-Z Jacks" - All these changes make getting the main up and down much easier. -

Mike Oxborrow, E33
J.P Foolish, Hull #25
 
Rocinante33

Rocinante33

Contributing Partner
Rocinante33

Rocinante33

Contributing Partner
Another question I have is, has anyone tried buying high quality line only for the load bearing section of a halyard & have inexpensive line butt spliced (for want of a better term) for the tail of the halyard? Will a splice like that be strong enough not to part but also flexible enough to pass over the sheave without hanging up?

Would that really save money to do it that way if I were to pay the vendor to make the splice?
 
CSMcKillip

CSMcKillip

Moderator
Moderator
Keith Parcells said:
Another question I have is, has anyone tried buying high quality line only for the load bearing section of a halyard & have inexpensive line butt spliced (for want of a better term) for the tail of the halyard? Will a splice like that be strong enough not to part but also flexible enough to pass over the sheave without hanging up?

Would that really save money to do it that way if I were to pay the vendor to make the splice?
Click to expand...

I was thinking of using the line listed above but have defender remove the cover 54'. This way the smaller line will run the sheave and have the cover for comfort at the winch.

I am planning on giving them a call, I will post my findings.
 
T

ted_reshetiloff

Contributing Partner
Comments on Line: XLS Extra is okay but VPC is a lot better. XLS extra is a pain to splice because it has this bogus piece of tracer cloth inside. Oh yeah thats the part that makes it Extra as opposed to plain old XLS which I happen to like for most everything but halyards. VPC is a great compromise for low stretch on a budget. Certainly fine for all halayrds on a cruiser.

On my new boat I am replacing all running rigging and I am using VPC for the spin halyard, Endura Braid (dyneema core) for the main halyard, and v-100 for the genoa. Leave the cover on though, vectran hates UV. What I do for furler halyards though is to just buy enough of the good line to make full hoist and a few turns on the winch. Then put a reeving splice in the cover and use 3/16" XLS as a messenger for hoisting a dropping. Dont bother with the butt splice, just leaves you with a bunch of line taking up space in the cockpit. A good reeving splice will let you tie the messenger on with a bowline and will run right through all the sheaves, easy cheesy.

As for the sheaves Emerald is right you will want to at least clean them up and idealy replace. I would not bother with bearings though. Get some new sheaves from www.zephyrwerks.com, Ed Louchard, with Delrin Sheaves and Oilite bearings. Great sheaves and only like $30-$40 each.
 
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