Is there a secert way to change the transmission fluid on a Hurth installed behing a universal M25XP in a 32-200? I have maybe a 3 inch clearance above the fluid dip stick and apparently the manual states that's the access for changing the fluid too. The area dosen't offer much access and the bulkhead is directly above.
Tranmission fluid change
- Thread starter jav317
- Start date
I changed the trans oil in our former Hurth by draining it into a wide low-side "loaf pan" that I bent to insert beneath the engine and then straightened out as it went under. I reached under the trans. with an end wrench to loosen the drain plug. I could not see the drain, but could feel it. Tight area to access. Once the oil (about 10 oz) was out, the pan was maneuvered back forward and sucked out with a syringe.
It might have been easier to just drop a tube down the dip stick opening and slurp it out. Access to the trans top was achieved when the heat exchanger was moved aft an inch after removing the two clamps that held it in its 'saddle'.
It might have been easier to just drop a tube down the dip stick opening and slurp it out. Access to the trans top was achieved when the heat exchanger was moved aft an inch after removing the two clamps that held it in its 'saddle'.
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Pete the Cat
Sustaining Member
I have the same boat and engine. You can't get anything under the trans to drain into . You gotta suck it out. I bought a high quality mechanical auto oil sucker and it works really well--I have had electric ones and cheap mechanicals they sell at West and they are a disappointment. . The problem will be the pesky 3" heat exchanger is in the way of filling and checking levels. But a 5/16 socket on the end of an battery drill will speed things up for removing all the hose clamps quickly (or you could get a nifty electric socket wrench on Amazon for $60 and you will use it a lot). I find that it is easiest to simply remove the heat exchanger once a year and I combine this with changing the transmission oil (the manual is wrong--the HBW 50 takes only 350ml of ATF--you can over fill it a bit but not much or it can push gaskets out), cleaning the heat exchanger and changing the zinc, and checking the elbow for build up. Combining all these maintenance tasks and having the thing all apart makes it a whole half day job, but it means you should not have to look at it again for a year.
reginaldobaker
Member II
Another vote for a manual oil sucker - have seen these under the label "lubricant suction gun" - although they don't resemble a 'gun' at all but rather a beefed up high volume syringe. Recently picked one up from AutoZone since Harbor freight kept being out of stock. it was around $15 dollars and works better than any transfer pump or similar
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Pete the Cat
Sustaining Member
My preference for a fluid extrractor is something like the Schwaben 6.5 liter vertical extractor. I have used most of the other types and this one is expensive, but is built for commercial shop use and it better than the Chinese knock offs sold at West. Great for oil and transmission changes.
Bolo
Contributing Partner
Similar but not exactly the same circumstances here are links to part of the story about my transmission replacement which resulted in almost not clearance between the dip stick and the HX. I simply (Well, not “simply”, it took a bit of doing.) moved the HX a bit and then I could easily reach and pull out the dip stick.
ericsonyachts.org
Transmission Problems...again. - The Saga Continues
Well, my wife and I had a nice afternoon sail on the Chesapeake Bay on our E32-3 (1987) yesterday and it was particularly nice since we were enjoying the new set of sails that were installed this month. But it was time to sail back to the marina, bring the sails down and motor in....but wait...
Piggy-backing into the thread with a couple of questions
I did my usual getting-ready-for-a-San-Juans-trip stuff this week (oil change, check coolant level and color, check/clean raw-water strainer, clean the engine sump to see if there are any signs of fluid leaks, check the Racor, replace the pencil zinc, etc, etc, etc...)
I checked the level of the transmission fluid, and it is pretty much the same as it has been for a while (I only seem to put about 25 hours a year on the engine). The fluid is just a scosh below the indicator line, and hasn't changed recently, but it got me wondering...
-- should I top it up so that it is actually *at* the line?
-- if so, is it OK to just add a little to the existing fluid?
-- or, is that a bad idea and it is better to do a full drain-and-fill with fresh transmission fluid?
I guess the real question is... how does one know it is time to change the transmission fluid?
Bruce
I did my usual getting-ready-for-a-San-Juans-trip stuff this week (oil change, check coolant level and color, check/clean raw-water strainer, clean the engine sump to see if there are any signs of fluid leaks, check the Racor, replace the pencil zinc, etc, etc, etc...)
I checked the level of the transmission fluid, and it is pretty much the same as it has been for a while (I only seem to put about 25 hours a year on the engine). The fluid is just a scosh below the indicator line, and hasn't changed recently, but it got me wondering...
-- should I top it up so that it is actually *at* the line?
-- if so, is it OK to just add a little to the existing fluid?
-- or, is that a bad idea and it is better to do a full drain-and-fill with fresh transmission fluid?
I guess the real question is... how does one know it is time to change the transmission fluid?
Bruce
I recall some advice that I should change ATF in our former Hurth 50, every year. So I did that, but when we were not using the boat too often would wait a couple of years. Our mechanic advised that we should watch for any color change in the semi-clear fluid, and we never observed any. We would average about 100 hours a year, run time.
Having never had a measurable leak I have not had to "top it up."
That said, our former Hurth did have a minor seepage around the bottom drain plug . I added a "bonded washer" and it stayed dry from then on. There was supposed to be an aluminum washer there, per the drawing, but it was missing when we bought the boat.
As for the exact fluid level, I always figured that if it was at the mark or a tad above, it was fine. I would not hesitate to add a little bit to keep that level at the indicated point.
I always carry a quart ATF container on the boat anyway, along with a spare gallon of lube oil.
On our new transmission I have been changing it every year just to be sure staying on track for any possible warranty hassle.
So, when in any doubt, just change it yearly. There is a thin tube on our vacuum oil changer that can reach to the bottom and remove most of the ATF. I realize that while, with difficulty, I could drain the new transmission into a shallow pan on our boat model, this may not be possible on your model. I have been using the vacuum oil changer for our trans, since it was installed in 2018, just because the drain is even a more difficult to access than the former Hurth. (!)
Washer Link: https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/ubs/hurth-17-mm-drain-plug-washer.213/
Having never had a measurable leak I have not had to "top it up."
That said, our former Hurth did have a minor seepage around the bottom drain plug . I added a "bonded washer" and it stayed dry from then on. There was supposed to be an aluminum washer there, per the drawing, but it was missing when we bought the boat.
As for the exact fluid level, I always figured that if it was at the mark or a tad above, it was fine. I would not hesitate to add a little bit to keep that level at the indicated point.
I always carry a quart ATF container on the boat anyway, along with a spare gallon of lube oil.
On our new transmission I have been changing it every year just to be sure staying on track for any possible warranty hassle.
So, when in any doubt, just change it yearly. There is a thin tube on our vacuum oil changer that can reach to the bottom and remove most of the ATF. I realize that while, with difficulty, I could drain the new transmission into a shallow pan on our boat model, this may not be possible on your model. I have been using the vacuum oil changer for our trans, since it was installed in 2018, just because the drain is even a more difficult to access than the former Hurth. (!)
Washer Link: https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/ubs/hurth-17-mm-drain-plug-washer.213/
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Thanks, Loren!
I've never had any evidence of a leak. The level is really really close to the line, and my guess is that the only fluid loss has come from wiping ATF off the dipstick when I check it 3 or 4 times a year.
I guess now the next challenge is figuring out how to get just a little fluid in there. I, too, carry a quart on the boat, but will have to figure out how to hold a funnel down there while pouring.
Bruce
I have a small funnel, and duct-tape a short plastic straw to the end that can go down into the fill hole. Regular blue tape works, but the oil dissolves the adhesive rather quickly.
I looked over the layout of the engine and tranmission and took your advice. The heat exchanger is in need of new paint and there is really no way to remove the dip/filler cap from the transmission with the heat exchanger in place. I now have the heat exchanger at home and will refinish the outside and flush the inside. By the dark brown color of the transmission fluid, I would say it's been some time since it's last service.
Thanks, Joe
Pete the Cat
Sustaining Member
FWIW That transmission does not like to be left in FWD when under sail. The brown color might indicate the PO did some of that. Either neutral of reverse when sailing. My old mechanic friend says he does not like neutral because he thinks it does ot splash enough onto the the bearings to keep them lubricated when the discs are not turning. I am not sure I share his opinion, but after taking one of these apart keep mine in reverse when sailing.
Yes, I agree and it's my practice to use reverse while sailing. I can understand not changing the fluid due to lack of access, but I'll be watching the hours and service the transmission within the guide lines.