Towing an inflatable tender

nquigley

Sustaining Member
When towing an inflatable tender, I've read that a bridle should be rigged on the tender ( \attachment points on either side of the tender's bow). Should the tow line be connected to a fixed point in the middle of the bridle (e.g., to a knotted loop), or should/could one put an ss ring on the bridle that can slip along the bridle, and tie the tow line from the boat to this ring?
I can't think my way through the hydrodynamics between these options.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I used to occasionally tow an 8' Zodiac, I kept it on a short leash, and used the heavy duty ss ring on the front of the dinghy. It slowed us down over a knot. It was like pulling a large suction cup attached to the water... !
I have a friend that tried reducing the drag -- they would haul the dinghy up part way on their transom so that less of it was in the wake.
 
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nquigley

Sustaining Member
I think the bridle is intended to minimize the sluicing side to side in waves, which can overturn a towed dinghy.
 

Bolo

Contributing Partner
I purchased a new inflatable dinghy ( https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--pru-3-performance-roll-up-inflatable-boat--14272488 ) small enough to store aboard on the foredeck or deflated in the aft quarter berth of our E32-3, which we now refer to as the “garage” because we stow stuff back there, and I also purchased a new towing bridle ( https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|215570|294|4099070&id=98483# ) which attached to the two forward “D” rings on the dinghy and then goes to a float where I attached a floating line that goes to the center of the transom on my E32-3. I don’t have photos of my setup but you can understand what I’m saying by just referring to the attached links. I’ve been back and forth with the “dinghy question” over the years going from inflatable, to hard shell wooden rowing dinghy, and back to inflatable which on my 32 footer seems to work out the best. We tow it most of the times but if the wind is going to be up we’ll drop it onto the foredeck, where it fits nicely, using the “Universal Dinghy Lift” ( https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|215570|294|2345877|2345881&id=98499# ) which works great when using the spinnaker halyard.

And never, never, tow the dinghy with the motor attached because you‘re just asking for trouble. We keep our new Torqeedo ( https://www.westmarine.com/buy/torqeedo--travel-603s-electric-outboard-motor-short-shaft--20216958 ) stored below when it’s not on the dinghy. Yes, between the new manual windlass and all of the dinghy equipment we spent a bundle but now we can anchor and get ashore.
 

G Kiba

Sustaining Member
I used to occasionally tow an 8' Zodiac, I kept it on a short leash, and used the heavy duty ss ring on the front of the dinghy. It slowed us down over a knot. It was like pulling a large suction cup attached to the water... !
I have friend that tried reducing the drag -- they would haul the dinghy up part way on their transom so that less of it was in the wake.
I have towed a 8' hard dingy with the bow out lifted out the water on the transom in 18-20 knot winds tacking back a forth on a river and actually forgot that it was there. It does slow the boat but a lot less than towing it from far behind. Not sure why that practice is so popular but I see it all the time. Might be so you don;t forget you are towing something?
 

peaman

Sustaining Member
Not wanting to overload the parts glued to the inflatable part, my bridle is anchored on the inflatable's transom. It runs from one transom anchor, forward to a D ring on the starboard pontoon, to the center of the bridle and back same way on the port side. The bridle runs through a ring at the end of the tow line, so it is free to run left or right. Seems to work fine on my 8' Mercury.
 

jtsai

Member III
My setup is similar to the picture shown below with 3 modifications:
- replace ring with a block so the dinghy is self-centered with respect to the boat's stern
- use poly line from the bridle to boat
- an additional poly line tied to the center tow eye (if one exist) that is independent of the bridle as a back up

This is, however, overkill if sailing on inland lakes.

1655133639444.png
 

nquigley

Sustaining Member
I really like the idea of terminating the legs of the bridle at the transom and just using the two near-bow D-rings as guides to keep the bridle lines apart. That will take most of of the pull force off the (flimsy) D-ring attachment points, but might create some rub-wear on the pontoons along the path from the D-rings to the transom(?)
 

nquigley

Sustaining Member
I purchased a new inflatable dinghy ( https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--pru-3-performance-roll-up-inflatable-boat--14272488 ) small enough to store aboard on the foredeck or deflated in the aft quarter berth of our E32-3, which we now refer to as the “garage” because we stow stuff back there, and I also purchased a new towing bridle ( https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|215570|294|4099070&id=98483# ) which attached to the two forward “D” rings on the dinghy and then goes to a float where I attached a floating line that goes to the center of the transom on my E32-3. I don’t have photos of my setup but you can understand what I’m saying by just referring to the attached links. I’ve been back and forth with the “dinghy question” over the years going from inflatable, to hard shell wooden rowing dinghy, and back to inflatable which on my 32 footer seems to work out the best. We tow it most of the times but if the wind is going to be up we’ll drop it onto the foredeck, where it fits nicely, using the “Universal Dinghy Lift” ( https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|215570|294|2345877|2345881&id=98499# ) which works great when using the spinnaker halyard.

And never, never, tow the dinghy with the motor attached because you‘re just asking for trouble. We keep our new Torqeedo ( https://www.westmarine.com/buy/torqeedo--travel-603s-electric-outboard-motor-short-shaft--20216958 ) stored below when it’s not on the dinghy. Yes, between the new manual windlass and all of the dinghy equipment we spent a bundle but now we can anchor and get ashore.
Thanks, Bob. The links are super helpful.
This is the inflatable I got: https://www.takacatamericas.com/lx-series-boats/t260-lx/
Like you, I decided an inflatable with a soft floor was my best solution for ease of stowage. In my case, the floor is a separate piece and can be used as a low-performance stand-up paddle board, if you add a strap-on skeg/fin. The ~8.8-foot length fits perfectly upside down on the foredeck with the transom hooked over the ss frame over the forward vent.
 

Bolo

Contributing Partner
Thanks, Bob. The links are super helpful.
This is the inflatable I got: https://www.takacatamericas.com/lx-series-boats/t260-lx/
Like you, I decided an inflatable with a soft floor was my best solution for ease of stowage. In my case, the floor is a separate piece and can be used as a low-performance stand-up paddle board, if you add a strap-on skeg/fin. The ~8.8-foot length fits perfectly upside down on the foredeck with the transom hooked over the ss frame over the forward vent.
My biggest hesitation was purchasing the dinghy lift which I thought was over priced for what it is but after I used it the first time to get the inflated dinghy onto the foredeck I came to the conclusion that it was worth the money.
 

peaman

Sustaining Member
but might create some rub-wear on the pontoons along the path from the D-rings to the transom(?)
I haven't used this extensively, so cannot say positively, but it seems to me that there is really very little pressure from the bridle onto the pontoons at any time, and that under tow, there is very little movement of the bridle line between the transom anchor points and the pontoon D rings. I suppose that tow length and sea conditions could combine to cause the dinghy to surge and surf, which would probably accelerate wear of the bridle on the pontoons.
 

kapnkd

kapnkd
When towing an inflatable tender, I've read that a bridle should be rigged on the tender ( \attachment points on either side of the tender's bow). Should the tow line be connected to a fixed point in the middle of the bridle (e.g., to a knotted loop), or should/could one put an ss ring on the bridle that can slip along the bridle, and tie the tow line from the boat to this ring?
I can't think my way through the hydrodynamics between these options.
I’ve learned early on that towing a dingy, be it an inflatable or hard one, it’s best to have them on deck when out ocean side. Our multiple crossings of the Gulf Stream from Miami to the Bahamas never failed to surprise with wind and wave at the worst of times.

For shorter cruising and bay crossings, it’s best to have a painter line that is bridled for sure to ease/prevent any wallowing. You can play the length of line to find the opportune distance to your speed and wave action.

Here’s my son’s last year cruise in light air from Grosse Ile (Detroit area) to Put-In-Bay, Islands, Ohio. (He did NOT bridle the dingy - given the very light air and use of the engine, but was at the ready to do so as needed.)
 

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kapnkd

kapnkd
When towing an inflatable tender, I've read that a bridle should be rigged on the tender ( \attachment points on either side of the tender's bow). Should the tow line be connected to a fixed point in the middle of the bridle (e.g., to a knotted loop), or should/could one put an ss ring on the bridle that can slip along the bridle, and tie the tow line from the boat to this ring?
I can't think my way through the hydrodynamics between these options.
I’ve learned early on that towing a dingy, be it an inflatable or hard one, it’s best to have them on deck when out ocean side. Our multiple crossings of the Gulf Stream from Miami to the Bahamas never failed to surprise with wind and wave at the worst of times.

For shorter cruising and bay crossings, it’s best to have a painter line that is bridled for sure to ease/prevent any wallowing. You can play the length of line to find the opportune distance to your speed and wave action.

Here’s my son’s last year cruise in light air from Grosse Ile (Detroit area) to Put-In-Bay,
Islands Ohio.
You could not align that wake any better with a laser!
:)
LOVE/Appreciated your comment Loren!

That’s my boy!!!…He’s clearly surpassed my 60 years plus of time on the salt & fresh waters with his learned helmsman skills…(Well, …also with a little help also from our newly super integrated auto pilot system.)

…Although, truth be told, …He can actually hold that kind of similar steady course on his own as well - and - in seriously much rougher conditions. (Remember, in that photo, it was but a gorgeous flat water/light air day on Lake Erie.)
 

Dan Morehouse

Member III
I’ve learned early on that towing a dingy, be it an inflatable or hard one, it’s best to have them on deck when out ocean side. Our multiple crossings of the Gulf Stream from Miami to the Bahamas never failed to surprise with wind and wave at the worst of times.

For shorter cruising and bay crossings, it’s best to have a painter line that is bridled for sure to ease/prevent any wallowing. You can play the length of line to find the opportune distance to your speed and wave action.

Here’s my son’s last year cruise in light air from Grosse Ile (Detroit area) to Put-In-Bay,
Islands Ohio.

LOVE/Appreciated your comment Loren!

That’s my boy!!!…He’s clearly surpassed my 60 years plus of time on the salt & fresh waters with his learned helmsman skills…(Well, …also with a little help also from our newly super integrated auto pilot system.)

…Although, truth be told, …He can actually hold that kind of similar steady course on his own as well - and - in seriously much rougher conditions. (Remember, in that photo, it was but a gorgeous flat water/light air day on Lake Erie.)
I concur with towing on a shorter line. I think the dink behaves better than on long tethers. But I've never bothered with bridles, and I towed our hard bottom inflatable from Washington to Alaska & back on a single line, attached to the hard point at the front of the hull & maybe two dinghy lengths back. Never had a problem, but that said, the rougher it gets the more mechanical-bull-like the dinghy becomes. About the time I'd be thinking about a bridle is about the time I'd be thinking I should have lashed the thing aboard on the foredeck.

Dan Morehouse
1981 E38 "Next Exit"
 
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