Rocinante33
Contributing Partner
I have not done the topside paint yet, but one day, not too distant, will need to, also.
Search here and I am sure there are some old posts about the process. Also, the recent issue (Mar-Apr??) of Good Old Boat Magazine has an article about it.
Search here and I am sure there are some old posts about the process. Also, the recent issue (Mar-Apr??) of Good Old Boat Magazine has an article about it.
I painted a cheap 24ft center console with a friend of mine. The gelcoat was checked and nasty. We rolled on two coats of Interlux high build primer sanding in between coats. Then finished with Interlux two part topside paint, also rolled on and tipped. The little secret to rolling&tipping is this: You need two people. The first person rolls the paint and stays about three feet ahead of the person tipping. The "tipper" keeps a small amount of "reducer" or whatever thinner is recommended for that particular paint in a quart container with them. Every three feet or so dip the tipping brush in the reducer and then "snap it out", basically knock off the extra reducer so the brush is not dripping and continue tipping. The tipping brush, lightly wet with reducer, will cause the paint to lay down as smooth as glass. The second color coat went on when the first was "hand slick", or if you run your fingernail, the backside of it, lightly over the paint and it does not stick, you are ready to go. Obviously this test is done in a low visibility area....
That boat was painted five years ago and while it was never perfect it still looks very nice from 10 feet and it was very cheap to do.
RT
That boat was painted five years ago and while it was never perfect it still looks very nice from 10 feet and it was very cheap to do.
RT
Time is Money...
When owners look askance at the local boat yard mgr at the price of a mirror finish LPU paint job, he explains that there is a huge $$ labor cost difference between a "ten foot" finish and a "one foot" finish!
Loren
When owners look askance at the local boat yard mgr at the price of a mirror finish LPU paint job, he explains that there is a huge $$ labor cost difference between a "ten foot" finish and a "one foot" finish!
Loren
davisr
Member III
Seadyce,
Just curious about a word you used in your posting. You describe this as the original topside paint. Are you sure the faded white/gray you describe is not just oxidized gel coat? If so, you might be able to get away with buffing it with rubbing compound and then wax.
Best,
Roscoe
Just curious about a word you used in your posting. You describe this as the original topside paint. Are you sure the faded white/gray you describe is not just oxidized gel coat? If so, you might be able to get away with buffing it with rubbing compound and then wax.
Best,
Roscoe
Roscoe brings up a good point about being sure of what you have. If it is just oxidized gelcoat, I would recommend making every attempt to make it look good first, even if that means an annual buff and polish/wax. Emerald was painted with Awlgrip 2000 about 2002 - can't find the receipt right now, but think that's when it was. The finish has held up extremely well and still has excellent gloss. However, there is a big caveat here. If it gets scratched or abraded or gouged etc., have fun repairing it. The gloss in Awlgrip is in the top surface, and you really can't buff the stuff like you can with conventional paints or Imron. This means repairing the finish and blending in the inevitable nicks and dings that somehow always seem to happen is a real PITA. So, try to restore the gelcoat if that's what you have, and do give Awlgrip a good look at if you do have to paint, because it can give you a great finish, but be aware of the challenges of scratch repair etc.
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When owners look askance at the local boat yard mgr at the price of a mirror finish LPU paint job, he explains that there is a huge $$ labor cost difference between a "ten foot" finish and a "one foot" finish!
Loren
I try to approach cosmetic items from a cost/benefit point of view. If it looks good from 10ft, why go for more? These are old boats we are working on. They will never be perfect and will cost you a fortune to try and get to perfect. If the boat is clean and well maintained that count for far more. I have a "money no object" approach to safety/mechanical upgrades simply because these are the areas that allow you to enjoy the boat better. A well applied "cheap" paintjob looks just as good as any while underway. If someone wants to get picky and break out the magnifying glass well then you can point to how much money you saved!
RT
I painted the topsides of our Capri25 with Interlux Brightside, over three coats of primer, wetsand till I was blue in the face, then sanded more. Everything is in the prep work using black lacquer spray spots and sand with 600 wet, you can see all the low spots, also use a long board this will insure you do not sand more in one area creating low spots in the finish. For the paint I used Interlux products, I used a HVLP gun with a 100 gal. Tank. Several filters and all of the gear to protect myself. A 25 ft boat took me 1 month using weekends, so 8, 8 to 12 hr days.
I would use a two part paint, spare no cost on the materials, and take your time. If the boat is gelcoat spend the time to buff and wax, our boat was painted before so I didn't have the option, but nothing will replace the gelcoat finish..... Nothing.
I would use a two part paint, spare no cost on the materials, and take your time. If the boat is gelcoat spend the time to buff and wax, our boat was painted before so I didn't have the option, but nothing will replace the gelcoat finish..... Nothing.
Two Part is the way to go...
I agree whith Chris!. I did my old Catalina with Interlux Perfection on the hull and most of the deck. Then finished out the bulkhead and cockpit with Brightside. The Brightside did nt hold up near as well to beatings as did the Perfection. But neither are as good as the original gel if you can save it.... Tim
I agree whith Chris!. I did my old Catalina with Interlux Perfection on the hull and most of the deck. Then finished out the bulkhead and cockpit with Brightside. The Brightside did nt hold up near as well to beatings as did the Perfection. But neither are as good as the original gel if you can save it.... Tim
Keiffer
Member II
Awlgrip topside
David,
The Emerald Lady has Jade Green topsides professionaly done about seven years ago. I have the receipts from the PO and it looks like it cost a little over 6K for the prep and paint job. It is still in excellent condition with a couple of exceptions - a couple of white smudges from the dock, it appears to be on the surface of the paint. i.e. white paint off of the dock on the Jade Green finish. I know I cannot buff or wax but is there anything I can try to clean the white rub marks off of the hull? How do you maintain yours to keep it looking good?
David,
The Emerald Lady has Jade Green topsides professionaly done about seven years ago. I have the receipts from the PO and it looks like it cost a little over 6K for the prep and paint job. It is still in excellent condition with a couple of exceptions - a couple of white smudges from the dock, it appears to be on the surface of the paint. i.e. white paint off of the dock on the Jade Green finish. I know I cannot buff or wax but is there anything I can try to clean the white rub marks off of the hull? How do you maintain yours to keep it looking good?
Hi,
I've only used the Awlgrip products. They have both a wash and a sealer that also does some polishing - the rag will come away with color on it with the sealer. The wash is called Awlwash and the sealer Awlcare. Now, I've just gone to check out their website for the first time in a long time, and what I'm reading about waxing seems to be a change from the past
http://www.awlgrip.com/support/topcoatmaint/Pages/TopcoatMaintenance.aspx
Also, as I look at the website, they talk about the awlcare only for removing stains, but the bottle I'm holding in my hand indicates use for the entire surface. From the bottle, "Awlcare contains no harsh abrasives and will not scratch the painted surface. It leaves a protective polymer coating which lasts through multiple washings. AWLCARE removes mild stains such as water spots and diesel soot. Regular applications increase resistance to attack from acid rain and other environmental pollutants."
So, given how well my finish has held up, I'll continue with washes as needed with the Awlwash and an annual application of the Awlcare on the whole thing. I'd recommend giving it a first shot and see how it does. I think you've got a shot of getting it off with the Awlcare
I've only used the Awlgrip products. They have both a wash and a sealer that also does some polishing - the rag will come away with color on it with the sealer. The wash is called Awlwash and the sealer Awlcare. Now, I've just gone to check out their website for the first time in a long time, and what I'm reading about waxing seems to be a change from the past
http://www.awlgrip.com/support/topcoatmaint/Pages/TopcoatMaintenance.aspx
Also, as I look at the website, they talk about the awlcare only for removing stains, but the bottle I'm holding in my hand indicates use for the entire surface. From the bottle, "Awlcare contains no harsh abrasives and will not scratch the painted surface. It leaves a protective polymer coating which lasts through multiple washings. AWLCARE removes mild stains such as water spots and diesel soot. Regular applications increase resistance to attack from acid rain and other environmental pollutants."
So, given how well my finish has held up, I'll continue with washes as needed with the Awlwash and an annual application of the Awlcare on the whole thing. I'd recommend giving it a first shot and see how it does. I think you've got a shot of getting it off with the Awlcare
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