Surveyor Recommendations, San Diego?
- Thread starter DWB
- Start date
Can't help with surveyor, but feel free to reveal the listing here , and to publish photos here of anything that concerns you.
Members are good resources for informed opinion on any specimen.
Members are good resources for informed opinion on any specimen.
Roger Janeway
Member II
Three years ago when I bought my boat in Dana Point I used a surveyor named Bunker A. Hill (an odd name to those familiar with Los Angeles) and thought he was good, albeit probably one of the more expensive surveyors. However, I do not think he had any particular familiarity with Ericsons. I later ran into him surveying a large motor yacht in Marina Del Rey so know he travels in Southern California and is still working. I settled on him based on recommendations on Sailing Anarchy or some other sailors' forum. He had a slightly prickly personality but I think that was because he's good at his job and knows it, and he isn't lacking for work so can afford not to be much of a glad-hander. He spent a long time on the survey and sea trial and discussed everything with me carefully. I used a separate surveyor for the rigging. The only thing I'd do differently next time is also have an engine survey. (But that might have scared me off my boat, so ultimately I'm glad I didn't, as the minor engine issues that initially terrified me were eventually fixed with a little money.)
www.marinesurvey.org
Bunker A. Hill, AMS® | Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors
Surveyors is a marine surveyor in Newport Beach, California, United States. View contact information.
www.marinesurvey.org
I don't know if Jim will go to San Diego, but if not he might have a recommendation.
For full resolution choose "view on YouTube"
| James K. Wallace, Marine Surveyor PO Box 41283 Long Beach 310 617-9385 (Phone) |
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Nice video, some very good points that you make.
I took a look at her today, she has a soft area on the deck - above the shower. The rest is generally good, but a number of projects come immediately to mind... Some wear on the transom edges, topsides pretty dull, also a CNG stove/oven.... Today's rain helped show a deck leak through the forward pulpet base where the nav light wiring runs through and the anchor locker drainhose fitting to the hull is broken. all the hatches and portlights all crazed but not leaking. So it seems a good price, but a number of projects to start the list...
I took a look at her today, she has a soft area on the deck - above the shower. The rest is generally good, but a number of projects come immediately to mind... Some wear on the transom edges, topsides pretty dull, also a CNG stove/oven.... Today's rain helped show a deck leak through the forward pulpet base where the nav light wiring runs through and the anchor locker drainhose fitting to the hull is broken. all the hatches and portlights all crazed but not leaking. So it seems a good price, but a number of projects to start the list...
Roger Janeway
Member II
Alan Gomes has an excellent and easy solution to the leak through the pulpit base, which afflicts all our boats, large or small, it seems. In case my link doesn’t work I am quoting him here:
Alan Gomes: “The water was coming in from the aft starboard leg of the bow pulpit. The bow pulpit legs, as is true for all of the stanchions on this boat, are in sockets. In the case of the aft starboard leg, the base of the socket is hollow to allow the wiring from the the bow light to run inside the pulpit tubing, through the deck, inside the headliner, and then back to the electrical panel. If you look at how the pulpit leg fits into the socket, you'll see that it's not even close to water tight. This, needless to say, was a supremely stupid way for the factory to have installed this. It had to have leaked from day one.
“The way I settled on stopping the leak was to wrap the joint where the pulpit leg goes into the socket with a self-annealing silicone tape. I then put hose clamps over the ends of the tape, top and bottom, to make sure it stayed in place and could not unwrap. The tape should be inspected from time to time, but I have found that it stopped the leak. There may be a better way to do it but this worked for me; it was quick and cheap.”
Post in thread 'Just bought my first boat: E26-2 - Electric bilge pump, bow anchor roller and other questions.'
https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/thread...-roller-and-other-questions.18484/post-141983
Alan Gomes: “The water was coming in from the aft starboard leg of the bow pulpit. The bow pulpit legs, as is true for all of the stanchions on this boat, are in sockets. In the case of the aft starboard leg, the base of the socket is hollow to allow the wiring from the the bow light to run inside the pulpit tubing, through the deck, inside the headliner, and then back to the electrical panel. If you look at how the pulpit leg fits into the socket, you'll see that it's not even close to water tight. This, needless to say, was a supremely stupid way for the factory to have installed this. It had to have leaked from day one.
“The way I settled on stopping the leak was to wrap the joint where the pulpit leg goes into the socket with a self-annealing silicone tape. I then put hose clamps over the ends of the tape, top and bottom, to make sure it stayed in place and could not unwrap. The tape should be inspected from time to time, but I have found that it stopped the leak. There may be a better way to do it but this worked for me; it was quick and cheap.”
Post in thread 'Just bought my first boat: E26-2 - Electric bilge pump, bow anchor roller and other questions.'
https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/thread...-roller-and-other-questions.18484/post-141983
FWIW, this is all familiar, except for the leakage. Our factory bow nav light wiring was routed down the starb aft pulpit leg also. They had put a slug of white sealant around the jacketed wire pair at the bottom. The base was also sealed down to the deck. Never a leak.
However..... removal of the pulpit was kind of tedious. Once pried up a little ways, to the limit of the wire length, and then finally cutting the wires on the inside, I had to work a thin blade around the rubbery sealant and finally was able to tie a tag line to it. I pulled it thru the little hole on the face curve of the pulpit.
That "boat cable' rated wiring was replaced with a new piece. I did use some less-grippy sealant to pretty much copy the factory method when reassembling this.
Only change from the EY boats is that our pulpit feet are mounted on solid laminate and not coring.
In a given era, same guys might have done this deck layout assembly that also built out Alan's Ericson...!
However..... removal of the pulpit was kind of tedious. Once pried up a little ways, to the limit of the wire length, and then finally cutting the wires on the inside, I had to work a thin blade around the rubbery sealant and finally was able to tie a tag line to it. I pulled it thru the little hole on the face curve of the pulpit.
That "boat cable' rated wiring was replaced with a new piece. I did use some less-grippy sealant to pretty much copy the factory method when reassembling this.
Only change from the EY boats is that our pulpit feet are mounted on solid laminate and not coring.
In a given era, same guys might have done this deck layout assembly that also built out Alan's Ericson...!
I didn't make it that far. After writing up the 'ole pro's and con's list, I determined that the con's list was really a list of projects that I would be buying - not cons of an E38... I reside in Denver and want a boat in San Diego and I decided I didn't want to take on projects from afar. For anyone looking for an E381 that has the time and motivation, I think this is a fair boat to pursue. I will be keeping my eyes open for the next opportunity.
Thanks to all the contributors for thoughts and suggestions!
Thanks to all the contributors for thoughts and suggestions!
Sorry, I don't have any experience with yards in San Diego