Strange substance in galley cabinet/Paint Recommendations

[lonokai]

While cleaning the boat this morning I attacked the galley… And found what looks like a plastic sheeting and underneath it was this rusty colored powder…(see photos).. I saw a couple of larger pieces which looked a little bit like foam so I'm wondering if this is deteriorated foam that was underneath the plastic sheeting… has anyone run across this before… And do you think it has any impact on the fiberglass?

 

[Christian Williams]

I'm with you. Some kinda ancient foam kitchen-drawer shelf backing.

Attack with scraper, acetone, dynamite. If it's fiberglass hull, chemicals won't hurt it.

 

[Emerald]

is it from an attempt to insulate the icebox? In any event, other than being a nuisance and indicting some foam is shot somewhere, I don' t the dust can damage fiberglass in any way.

 

[JPS27]

mystery foam

Eric,
we have the same boat, at least figuratively . But one of my winter projects is exactly what you are doing. Last winter I ripped out this lining material behind the settees. I did what Christian said (always a good thing). I also gently used a spongy block 3m sander or brush to loosen the gunk as I cleaned. Once I did all the cleaning I painted it white. Looks great and helps me track down the pesky leaks my boat had (has far less now). Wear a mask! and vacuum it up with a shop vac with all the filters they come with. Who knows what that stuff really is. But it seems that it is lining material and the decayed remnants of the same. I've taken out my galley teak (or is it mahogany) for refinishing and will spiff up that exposed hull area soon. Nasty stuff.

Jay

 

[lonokai]

Thanks Christian....Jay

What kind of paint is acceptable on what appears to be fiberglass....once I scrape and dynamite the stuff?

 

[dt222]

I used white Interlux Brightside polyurethane in that very spot.

Don

 

[Christian Williams]

Big fan of Brightside. Spent all week with it. Very high gloss enamel, showroom quality. It's only a one-part, good for us amateurs. But the surface needs to be perfect, as for any gloss enamel. Interlux Pre-Kote is important, and sand smooth. Then roll and tip. Be sure to have Interlux 333 solvent handy, since it is often necessary to thin if humidity is low. Or you're in the sun. Or any time the brush is snagging.

And, Brightside is a mere $50+ a quart. Oh--so is the Pre-Kote primer, more or less.

Personally, for that spot, on rough fiberglass nobody's gonna see, I would use leftover house paint.

But this is what you get for the money and prep time:

 

[lonokai]

Point made....but I do have a lot of enamel house paint in the garage........

 

[JPS27]

Like the others I used Interlux brightsides, but it was dumb luck. Glad the others on this site use it and like. It sounds like Christian suggests more prep than I did. I cleaned it as well as I could but I did not lay down any primer type coating first. Christian, do you put down the pre kote and then lightly sand? I cleaned as such: vacuumed loose material, lightly scraped with plastic scraper, vacuumed, sanded, vacuumed some more, wiped down with acetoned rags, then painted. It does look sweet.

And may I ask... on my interior bulkheads (eg., under the stove and aft of Eric's picture) what type of paint is best to protect that wood? Mine look like they were originally painted with gray bilge paint, along with the interior hull. That's also a painting project that needs to be done on my e27.

Jay

 

[Christian Williams]

The Pre-Kote is for spider cracks, worn gelcoat, or dings of bare wood. I believe it has microballoons, which remain in depressions after sanding. Otherwise, I just prep as you did. YOur job looks great.

Pre-Kote is also good if painting a boom, or other aluminum, especially a somewhat rough aluminum casting such as a table base. A couple of thick coats, sanded until the smooth parts are bare but the imperfections still filled, makes for a surface that looks powder-coated.

Brightside can also be sprayed on curvy shapes that are hard to roll and tip. Thin 40 percent and use a Preval aerosol sprayer. Lots of coats needed, but result is excellent.

It also lasts in the can. I just opened one marked 2/13, stirred it, and when passed through a paper paint filter there was no glop remaining in the filter at all.

 

[Alan Gomes]

Like the others I used Interlux brightsides, but it was dumb luck. Glad the others on this site use it and like. It sounds like Christian suggests more prep than I did. I cleaned it as well as I could but I did not lay down any primer type coating first. Christian, do you put down the pre kote and then lightly sand? I cleaned as such: vacuumed loose material, lightly scraped with plastic scraper, vacuumed, sanded, vacuumed some more, wiped down with acetoned rags, then painted. It does look sweet.

And may I ask... on my interior bulkheads (eg., under the stove and aft of Eric's picture) what type of paint is best to protect that wood? Mine look like they were originally painted with gray bilge paint, along with the interior hull. That's also a painting project that needs to be done on my e27.

Jay

Looks terrific. What is the name of that color? I need to do the same job and it looks like a pretty decent match for my existing color.

 

[JPS27]

Alan, it's interlux brightsides white. Here's a link that popped up on a quick search from Jamestown distributors: http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=64

You can obviously find it a lot of places. It helps pricing when your teenager works at a to-remain-unnamed marine hardware store . I'm encouraging him to continue working there through college!
Jay

 

[Alan Gomes]

Alan, it's interlux brightsides white. Here's a link that popped up on a quick search from Jamestown distributors: http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=64

You can obviously find it a lot of places. It helps pricing when your teenager works at a to-remain-unnamed marine hardware store . I'm encouraging him to continue working there through college!
Jay

Would that be just plain "white," or one of the various flavors of white that they show? The picture looks to me like more of a Hatteras off-white, but I wanted to check on that.

 

[JPS27]

To be honest, Alan, I'm not sure. I may have the can lying around in the garage and I'll check. But my handy friend who teaches me how to fix my boat had a half can of this stuff and just gave it to me and told me to clean and paint . If I had to guess I'd guess it was straight up "white". Seconding Christian's point, I have no idea how old the paint was but it has worked great. If I can find the can I'll let you know what I find out.
Jay

 

[Alan Gomes]

To be honest, Alan, I'm not sure. I may have the can lying around in the garage and I'll check. But my handy friend who teaches me how to fix my boat had a half can of this stuff and just gave it to me and told me to clean and paint . If I had to guess I'd guess it was straight up "white". Seconding Christian's point, I have no idea how old the paint was but it has worked great. If I can find the can I'll let you know what I find out.
Jay

Thanks. If you can find out that would be great. Was it a pretty close match to what you already had? And did you roll and tip, or just brush?

 

[JPS27]

What I had cleaned up on the interior hull had no paint that I could see. It appeared to be bare hull, maybe with an original coat but frankly I couild not tell. Whatever it was it had been covered by the fabric referenced in the original question above. I had that fabric in places just falling off the hull or missing entirely. But the remnants looked like old crusted, deteriorating 1/8" or so of foam that must have been the backing of the fabric/insulation. So there was nothing to match. All of this is behind cushions, inside lockers etc. The only place it is obvious is in the forward v berth. It definitely helps lighten things up a bit up in the bow. Oh, and I just brushed it on. Helps me spot dribbles is they appear real good

 

[Pat C.]

The foam was used on many lines of production boats with solid core hulls. The goal is to avoid the interior from sweating, which leads to mildew and so on. Like a glass of ice water sweats on a warm day. Mostly a problem when the interior is warm on a cold day. I assume the rust is mildew caught in the foam. Higher end boats use closed cell foam nowadays to avoid this. Lower end boats stopped using anything at all, at least what I can tell from occasional boat show visits.

 

[JPS27]

Alan, I found the can...miracle. It's Brightside polyurethane "Premium [paint stains] Part Enamel." And it's "White" and the number is "4[digits covered by paint]9". That's the best I can do on this old can of paint.

 

[Alan Gomes]

Alan, I found the can...miracle. It's Brightside polyurethane "Premium [paint stains] Part Enamel." And it's "White" and the number is "4[digits covered by paint]9". That's the best I can do on this old can of paint.

Thanks! I appreciate it.

 

[lonokai]

Well, as it turns out...I just painted the interior of my house and have nearly a gallon of Behr Premium Plus Interior?Exterior Hi Gloss enamel..

You think thats OK for the interior spaces like this....

(We went for white thank goodness....)

Big fan of Brightside. Spent all week with it. Very high gloss enamel, showroom quality. It's only a one-part, good for us amateurs. But the surface needs to be perfect, as for any gloss enamel. Interlux Pre-Kote is important, and sand smooth. Then roll and tip. Be sure to have Interlux 333 solvent handy, since it is often necessary to thin if humidity is low. Or you're in the sun. Or any time the brush is snagging.

And, Brightside is a mere $50+ a quart. Oh--so is the Pre-Kote primer, more or less.

Personally, for that spot, on rough fiberglass nobody's gonna see, I would use leftover house paint.

But this is what you get for the money and prep time: