Settee furniture tabbing & limber holes

Nick J

Sustaining Member
Moderator
Blogs Author
I'm planning to build a shelf under the port settee to mount my batteries. While I was cleaning the area I noticed the tabbing for the furniture does not have any limber holes to allow water to drain into the bilge. I don't have a lot of water getting in and accumulating here, but I do get a small amount after washing the boat or a wet sail to wind (pretty sure it's getting in through the portlights). Regardless of how it's getting in, I would like to ensure it has a way to get out before it damages the furniture. I was thinking of using a multitool to cut a slot in the tabbing at the low point. Has anyone run into this issue before? If so, what was your solution?

Sette Limber Hole.jpg
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Well, if it were me I'd figure it would be easy to undo if it didn't work out.

I'd make a drainage hole though, rather than a slot.
 

Nick J

Sustaining Member
Moderator
Blogs Author
My concern is not drilling into the hull. The multi tool would allow me to get a better angle along the hull instead of into it but would result in a slot. I'm thinking the chuck and drill body would be difficult to get a good angle. Am I overthinking this?

1647035356169.png
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
In our boat, there were small (about half inch) holes thru the tabbing. Since these communicate with the bilge, albeit passing close by other moldings, that initial hole is likely all you need. Find out by drilling one trial hole, pouring in some water, and observe if it appears in the bilge.

Gotta say... factory had put in these limber holes under the front of all the places where the interior pan was close to the bilge. All it did was allow bilge water, if any, to wander all the way up into lockers and shelves, when sailing hard with the "rail down". I glassed in every hole.
We do not have any deck leaks to allow water in those enclosed areas in the first place. Since then, our stored food and spare parts stay dry.
 
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Kenneth K

1985 32-3, Puget Sound
Blogs Author
Why not build a dam (like the concave curve you drew) with epoxy and let any collected water run along the dam until it reaches an existing corner where it can drop into the bilge.

An epoxy dam will keep water off the wood and prevent mildew & rot. Flexible caulk might even be better.
 

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
My thought was that in a perfect world, these settees would act as "crash bulkheads." That is, in the event of an "All Is Lost" container collision or the like, water might be contained within. Although on my boat they are only a couple of inches above the resting water line. But in fact, as they come from the factory, water can find its way aft, behind the engine, and then down to the bilge. At least on starboard. It's stopped by the galley bulkhead on port. And POs put cabinet doors in the front, so those would leak anyway. And I put in a grille for the subwoofer.

But at one time I had in mind to stop up all the gaps between compartments with new bulkheads. Probably epoxy & glass fiber over foam.

Anyhow, as Christian said, if it twere done, tis best done reversibly. With a round hole that you can stop up if ever needed.
 

Gaviate

Member III
I would use a drill bit on a flexible shaft, keeps drill chuck clear of work area which may allow for proper alignment with hull. Flexible shaft requires low speed so you can actually control it but you're just drilling through soft material so pretty easy. Another observation is that you could send drill hole at angle through tabbing, no rule as to being 100% perpendicular to surface being drilled. Primary objective is to stay parallel to hull surface.
 
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