Ray's solution is mentioned in several repair books about epoxy use. Along with warnings about what happens if not enough release wax is used!
For more "research" on the subject of field repairs, specifically bearings.... read the fine novel "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance" .
I think the epoxy "repair"--at least as WestSystem presents it--is really dumb on a number of levels. First, it is a disaster waiting to happen. Neil (aka "Parrothead") could jump in here and share his experience in coaching a poor soul who (fortunately) was eventually able to free his rudder post with Neil's help after an ill-fated attempt at this repair. I've gone ahead and attached a .PDF of a discussion thread on this. Nightmare material.
But second, this repair adds a bunch of unnecessary friction to the system. Structurally speaking, the rudder post only bears load on the top and the bottom, i.e., where the post exits on the top (e.g., emerging from the cockpit sole as on my boat, or whatever) and at the bottom, where it exits the hull. The rudder tube in-between is simply to keep the water out of the boat and could, in theory, be anything that would prevent the water ingress (e.g., a rubber hose, in principle). The epoxy "fix" creates an unnecessary bearing surface along the entire length of the rudder post, but to no good purpose.
On my own tiller-steered E26, I added some stainless steel shim stock from McMaster-Carr, top and bottom. I purchased three different thicknesses with the following part numbers, so I could experiment, as follows: 2317K13: .003" stock; 2317K14: .004" stock; 2317K15: .005" stock. Something around .004" thick did the trick, top and bottom. I greased the shims with Teflon grease (SuperLube) and I have very good performance: no real play to speak of and little friction.
As part of my normal haul out regimen, I drop the rudder (which is quite easy on my boat), clean and re-grease the shims, and then reinsert. Frankly, everything has been working fine and I'm sure I could do it every few haul outs, but it is a simple task so I clean and re-grease at each haul out "just because."
I'm attaching a drawing that Neil made for anyone who wants to go this route. I'm also attaching a .PDF of a thread that shows what can go awry with that really dumb epoxy "fix."
It is not necessary to haul your boat to add the shims. The one on the top is accessible from inside the boat, of course, and I had my diver assist insert the one from below, because at the time I first added these I was in-between haul outs.
BTW: I noticed that Ray's suggested epoxy fix only seemed to provide a bearing surface for the lower 1' or so of the rudder tube--if I read him right. That makes a good deal more sense to me than the West System fix, which involves the entire rudder tube. Much less potential for things to go sideways and more effective to boot. Still, I've had virtually no wear on those stainless shims and installation is trivial, so that's the route I favor. Plus, mine has been in for years and has not worked itself out, when installed per Neil's diagram. It also allows me to easily shim the top bearing surface without having to fill up the entire rudder tube with epoxy.